Fluke 5200A - requirements for 5205A

[FlyingHacker]

So I obtained a 5200A for a really good price. I was curious what I needed to connect up a 5205A. I just want to make sure I get any specialty cables, etc.

Can anyone who has done this fill me in?

Thanks.

[Dr. Frank]

Should be described in either manual.

I think, a special interface cable between both instruments (rear connectors) is all, what's needed.

I did not buy a 5205A or 5215A, as these were more expensive than the 5200A, over 1000 $/€ for sure.
And these are really heavy beasts, so you need a stable rack.

Frank

[FlyingHacker]

I have a crazy sturdy rack, though I am not sure if I will put these in the rack. Perhaps just on a bench or something.

Yeah, the 5205A is pricey, but that was the whole reason I got the 5200A in the first place, for the 1000V. Stupid me didn't RTFM before buying and later realized I need the 5205A as well.

With the 5200A is there any advantage to using a 5215A vs. a 5205A ?

[Dr. Frank]

No difference concerning the 5200A.
I think, one is AC coupled, the other one DC coupled, so useable for DC calibrators as well.

Frank

[Bill158]

So I obtained a 5200A for a really good price. I was curious what I needed to connect up a 5205A. I just want to make sure I get any specialty cables, etc.

Can anyone who has done this fill me in?

Thanks.

When I got my 5215A the seller didn't have the interface cable FLUKE #341560 which comes with the 5215A when new. I suspect this is the "norm" when you have equipment stacked on pallets during the liquidation of a company/cal lab. Someone just makes sure the equipment is ready for auction but the accessories like this cable and manual are just tossed. There is a schematic on how this cable is wired on pg. 4-21 of the 5215A manual. One end is a standard DB-25 female and goes into the 5215A but the other end is a PC Board edge connector, 30 pin/15 on each side 0.100 centers, type with a cover assembly over it and jack screws to insure that it doesn't come lose from the 5200A controller card.  I found the PC edge connector and strain relief in the local electronics junque shop. I built my own cable because fleabay didn't have anything listed at the time.  Later on I found the #341560 interface cable on fleabay but when I installed the "official" FLUKE cable I couldn't really see any difference in the voltage accuracy.  One more word of warning.  The 5215A needs 115V at 12.5 amps for the High Voltage section.  A 5200A and a 5215A plugged into the same wall socket with a 20 amp breaker WON'T WORK because of the current draw (US voltage of course).  So you have to provide a dedicated 20 amp circuit for the 5215 high voltage cord.  The 5200 and the low voltage cord for the 5215 will run fine on the same 20 amp circuit.
Bill

[FlyingHacker]

When I got my 5215A the seller didn't have the interface cable FLUKE #341560 which comes with the 5215A when new. I suspect this is the "norm" when you have equipment stacked on pallets during the liquidation of a company/cal lab. Someone just makes sure the equipment is ready for auction but the accessories like this cable and manual are just tossed.

This is exactly what I was thinking, and good to know that it is indeed a separate cable.

There is a schematic on how this cable is wired on pg. 4-21 of the 5215A manual.

Thank goodness for the good old days, when manufacturers provided stuff like pin outs and schematics!

The 5215A needs 115V at 12.5 amps for the High Voltage section.  A 5200A and a 5215A plugged into the same wall socket with a 20 amp breaker WON'T WORK because of the current draw (US voltage of course).  So you have to provide a dedicated 20 amp circuit for the 5215 high voltage cord.  The 5200 and the low voltage cord for the 5215 will run fine on the same 20 amp circuit.

Very good to know. Do they draw that much current just at idle?

You would think calibrating meters wouldn't use so much current. Is it class A or something?

[Bill158]

The 5215A needs 115V at 12.5 amps for the High Voltage section.  A 5200A and a 5215A plugged into the same wall socket with a 20 amp breaker WON'T WORK because of the current draw (US voltage of course).  So you have to provide a dedicated 20 amp circuit for the 5215 high voltage cord.  The 5200 and the low voltage cord for the 5215 will run fine on the same 20 amp circuit.

Very good to know. Do they draw that much current just at idle?

You would think calibrating meters wouldn't use so much current. Is it class A or something?
[/quote]
I have never examined the amp circuits that much, but the manual says the the circuit is "AB push pull".  But the inrush current when the High Voltage comes on is LARGE for a short time so that alone will trip the breaker, if the HV isn't on it's own 20 amp circuit.  I know that for a fact.  The first time I put one of these in I failed to read the warnings (or just ignored them) and as soon as the High Voltage came on the circuit tripped.  As I vaguely remember the 5215A runs around 8 amps at idle without doing anything else.  Also since the 5215A will supply 120 watts at any level.  Plus the raw high voltage supply runs at around +/- 2.5 KV.  Then there are 4 ea 4X150A transmitting tubes inside of this beast.  Just listen to the fan on the back of this unit, it sounds like a 747 taking off.  There is a reason for all of this cooling.  Also remember that when working on this unit that it is a WIDOW MAKER without any problem!

Bill

[dacman]

The 5205A can be run manually.  It has a BNC 10 Vac input that can be used under manual control (10 Vac in, 1000 Vac out).

[FlyingHacker]

5205A is on the way!

Now I just have to find this interconnect cable, a second 20amp circuit, and not make my wife a widow.

[FlyingHacker]

Does anyone have a photo of the back of the 5200A with the RCU option (Option 1)? Mine arrived and it had a big open hole. I do see card edges in there.

Is this correct (see photo)? I was expecting some sort of port connector, no?

Thanks.

[FlyingHacker]

Ah, nevermind! That is the wrong port in the picture. J32 is there and labelled 5205A no less!

[FlyingHacker]

Do you think something like this will work for the PCB edge connector end of the home-built FLUKE #341560 cable:

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/EDAC/341-030-520-202/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtWxQ3D3EXBN5JWos%2fM28oxmEQtOTEnIgM%3d

I am going to visit my vintage electronics store and see if they have anything, but I am trying to find one online in case they don't.