How should you start? You should not.
Don't start learning about one of the most widely used, versatile and inexpensive microcontroller families out there?
Great advice there.

Pics are cheap for a reason, and the reason is that vast majority of them have truckloads of bugs.
They're not that cheap. Compare and contrast like-for-like in terms of pin count and peripheral set, and you'll find that families like STM32 are actually cheaper as well as being much higher performance - but without the ease of use and some of the hardware capabilities that PICs tend to have. You'll struggle to find 5V operation or true EEPROM, for example.
As for the bugs, there certainly are plenty of them, but they're clearly documented in readily available errata. Decide whether the bugs in any given device actually matter to your application, and work around them if necessary.
On top of that recent Microchip compilers are artificially crippled
True - but not an issue unless you're struggling for performance.