Yes, a clean power supply is a very important thing. think of old Jaguars, a lovely exterior, but with a fuel consumption second to none, and electrics by Lucas, the prince of darkness.
100v plus spikes with every plug firing, 5V of alternator noise on the supply, battery voltage of 6V during starting and load dump transients of 400V are vety common. You need to at least have on the power input a series resistor ( a polyfuse as well will be better), a reverse voltage diode, a transient suppressor diode and then an automotive rated 5V regulator with watchdog output. That, along with some electrolytic and ceramic bypass and reservoir capacitors, gives a clean power supply to the micro, and a reset input that will handle brownouts properly. A separate power relay supply with only basic overvoltage protection ( 40v transient suppressor and polyfuse) will then be used to drive compressor clutches from the battery supply.
All inputs need at least a pull down resistor, a series resistor and a pair of catch diodes to a overvoltage protected bus, basically a diode isolated 5V rail ( fed from the main rail by a 1A schottky diode) with a 5.6V 1W zener across the rail, then a resistor to the micro input. This will survive any automotive voltage applied to it aside from the coil voltage. No direct outputs from the micro, at least a power transistor as a buffer, with a catch diode to the input rail if needed, and a transient suppressor across the transistor as standard, a 40V MOV and a 100V rated transistor works well here.
All basic protection, adds a little to board space, but the saving in warranty returns will be considerable. You can make a model for each one and repeat as needed, a common BOM will work wonders with bulk buying and dropping per unit cost. About the only leaded items are the 1W zener and the MOV's, the rest are available as SM parts, and you can use SM parts for the MOV's if you parallel 2 lower rated devices as well.