Electronics > Microcontrollers

what should happen when you plug in a PIC microcontroller?

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--- Quote ---what should happen when you plug in a PIC microcontroller
--- End quote ---
It really depends what you plug it into, but assuming reasonable conditions, the MCU should set the program counter to the reset vector (0x0000 except for PIC10F20X in which case, the last address in program ROM to load the oscillator calibration value into W).

--- Quote ---Start by downloading and reading the datasheet.
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Excellent advice, but perhaps a heavy lift for someone seeking an answer to one particular question.  Your later suggestions of quick searching are 100% on point and are apparently what you implied here too.  Based on some experiences at work, I do question the general familiarity of people with research skills like using indices and searching...  This is not about anyone in this thread, just a general thing that pains my metaphorical soul.

--- Quote ---I've always found it interesting that Arduino was so much more of a success.  I guess the "language" and the "IDE" made a significant difference.
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I'm right there with you on the use of scare quotes, westfw.  For MCUs, give me an assembler and a good set of documentation.  It's a truism these days that no one in their right mind should use assembly for pretty much anything, but I question whether those who hold such views have programmed anything significant in assembly. Fred Brooks did once remark that a high level language isn't that different from a macro assembler.

That said, it seems like the things the software / firmware people care about at work are making large, complex codebases easier to read, understand, maintain, and update on a deadline with a team of people who have differing levels of familiarity with the code and different levels of experience generally.  I'm not sure that's a problem with a solution, but more layers of abstraction and avoiding special features of the MCU where possible seem to be attempts at it.  Personally, I am glad to be on the hardware side.  And for personal projects, it's just me and the MCU, so assembly FTW.  It's amazing what you can accomplish with modern MCUs when operating at that level.

--- Quote ---Kynar wire...
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I use Kynar wire for modifying boards and hooking up instruments to test points because the insulation doesn't melt during soldering. This is the big selling point for this kind of wire. I do find it difficult to strip and will try Ian.M's trick for this

--- Quote ---Hint: it can help to first crush the insulation using a pair of miniature smooth jaw flat nose pliers, so it can be peeled away from the wire core, rather than risking notching the wire with strippers that aren't purpose made for it.
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or look for the purpose made strippers. Purpose made for Kynar, I hope.

--- Quote ---You *could* use fine magnet wire, but that doesn't stand up to handling as well, and depending on the insulation, can be a PITA to strip without hazardous chemicals and extreme heat. (e.g. a molten caustic salt bath of Sodium hydroxide mixed with Potassium nitrate!)
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This is a new one to me.  I've seen videos from a transformer manufacturer, and it appears the insulation on the magnet wire they use is designed to boil or burn off when dipped into the solder pot.


--- Quote from: slugrustle on December 10, 2022, 03:49:11 pm ---I've seen videos from a transformer manufacturer, and it appears the insulation on the magnet wire they use is designed to boil or burn off when dipped into the solder pot.

--- End quote ---

Maybe some special snowflake small scale audio transformer manufacturer or something?

Normal power transformers use enamels that are not designed to burn in soldering temperatures, because they are tougher and can withstand higher temperatures, desirable in transformers.

But you totally can buy magnet wire with "solderable" enamel. But it's a specialty thing.

Pretty sure they were making commodity transformers.

Here's an excerpt from totoku's catalog for triple insulated transformer wire that indicates direct solderability without stripping.  The insulation is class B.  I can see how this would be desirable from a manufacturing standpoint.

Purpose made stripper for 30 AWG Kynar, with a blade with a notch the width of the core diameter, unsuitable for any thinner or thicker wire.  Normally found on the side of a manual wire-wrap tool for 0.025" square pins.

Good stuff.  I found and ordered some (have more than one wire gauge). Looking forward to a quality of life upgrade.


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