EEVblog > Other Blogs

PDKH - my youtube videos (mostly beginners projects)

<< < (3/3)

Spuddevans:
So I just couldn't leave it be, but hopefully this is the last of this Banggood Canton RGB Tower construction series. (albeit in 4 parts!!!)


In this first part we see what I don't like about the original "as per the instructions" build, and discuss the concept of what I'm going to do. Then we start on bending some LED leads for the very tip of the tower and soldering them up.





Link to the Thingiverse page for the LED rings :- https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4948458

In this next part I insert the RGB LEDs into the 3d printed rings, and then bend the LED leads to form a circuit.




In this next part I solder wires onto, and then assemble all the levels of the new RGB Tower Tip and glue them in place on the support fibreglass rod.





In this next part I wire up all the connections between the new tower top, and the top existing LED PCB of the main tower. Then after some tidying I show a comparison between the new top and the old one.



That should be the end of this project. Thanks for watching,
Tim

Spuddevans:
Geekcreit® DIY C51 Touch Control Keys Full Color LED Aurora Tower Kit from Banggood.

In this 3-part (4 if you count the Display-Modes demo video) series I solder up this kit, including many SMD components and a bunch of 10mm RGB LEDs.

I also model up a case for the kit in Fusion360, then 3d-print a prototype (and then correct a couple of flaws and print out a 2nd version)

In this episode we "unbox" the kit and take a look at the contents, then start soldering the SMD passive components.




In this episode we finish soldering the SMD parts, and then solder in all the RGB LEDs, including showing how to deal with the inevitable solder-bridges!!




In this episode after soldering in the last RGB LED we power it up and find 3 LEDs don't seem to be completely working, so some investigation is needed and some solder joints re-worked before finding the cause of the issue. Then the prototype case is trialed, and then a modified case is printed and fitted.




Then finally this is a video of the various display modes of this Kit.




Thanks for watching

Spuddevans:
So this series is a little different, I want some more video lights, so I thought to myself "how hard can it be to design and custom build my own video light?"...... Well, I'm in the process of finding out how hard it is!!!

I ordered 1000 95% CRI LEDs from Digikey and set about the project!

I like to complicate things slightly. So I want to design a modular system that uses a single custom designed PCB, but that can have many copies of that custom designed PCB in one enclosure to make a bigger "panel-style" LED video light, or just one or two of them for a smaller light.

Also to complicate things further, I want the ability to choose either 12v or 18v power (without wasting a lot of power in a big dropper resistor for 18v) so that I can use an 18v LION powertool battery to power a portable version of the light.

In this 1st part  I go over some of the scope of the project, then make a crude prototype to test out how hot these LEDs get at the desired current and film that with a thermal camera.




In this next part I use some free PCB design software (altium circuitmaker) to make a schematic, then to lay out a PCB, before generating the files needed to upload to a PCB manufacturer. Then I go through the options offered by one manufacturer before I finally order the PCB's




I ordered the PCB's and a stencil and they came in just 10 days, next up will be assembling a PCB

Thanks for watching
Tim

Spuddevans:
Here's the next installment.

In this video we take a good look at the PCB's themselves, and also a look at the solder-paste stencil that I also ordered as I've got about 30 of these to make up.
Then we'll see one way to temporarily attach the PCB to the stencil in order to apply the solder-paste.




In this video we begin by applying the solder-paste, then the stencil is removed so that the LED's and current-limiting resistors can be placed on their respective locations. Then using a hot air soldering station we reflow each component. We finish with a visual inspection of the assembled PCB.



Thanks for watching,
Tim

Navigation

[0] Message Index

[*] Previous page

There was an error while thanking
Thanking...
Go to full version