Coil-winding short circuit detection? HOWTO?

[aluck]

I asked guys who make a living on starter repair, and they recommended to use a mix of 50% 5w40 synthetic engine oil  + 50% of lithium-based grease. They told me that it is better for low temps.

[G7PSK]

Most bushes come ready lubricated if not it's best to heat the bush to about 100 deg C and then drop into oil as this will suck the oil into the bushing. The bushing material can be bought in meter lengths , many bearing suppliers will have such material in stock and cut to length as required.

[KD0CAC John]

A lot of your number are wrong ,
A fulling charged battery should be 12.75 volts .
Without looking up the brand & model of your battery , and what the car requires , it should put out around 400 amps .
There are 2 ratings for batteries , cranking amps - 32*F and cold cranking amps - 0*F , at 0*F most batteries have 80% less capacity .
Again need to look up spec.s , the draw on the battery of 190 amps may be a little high but your volts [ 10.6 ] are low .
Jump starting batteries , batteries are made up of cells , 12v - 6 cells , jumpstart is 12 cells , the battery - jumpstart is only as good as the worst cell in the string , so if you have 1 battery that is 10.6v with load , that is the problem = the battery .
The easiest thing to do is remove  the battery and bring inside and allow to warm up , room temp for lets say 6-8 hours , put on charger , with out knowing the state of charge or what size charger you have , it could take 6-8 hrs for a full charge .
Now put the battery back in car and test amps & volts .
What can happen is if there is a lot of attempts of turning over engine with all these issues , you can damage starter , as volts go down , amps go up , at least to a point .
In cold climates , if the battery gets cold and the engine turns over slow , there is not enough current to drive starter & ignition system , so the plugs get fouled .
The best thing to do is again bring battery in for a few hrs and warm up , if you did not draw the battery down too far , you do not even need to charge , just put back in .
Then with modern electronic fuel injection , almost all computers is car with turn off the injectors if you put the pedel all the way to the floor , you need to do this to clear out the fouled plugs , then as after several revolutions of the engine , you should get a little bit of sputtering of ignition lighting off the remaining fuel , at this time let go of the throttle [ while still running the stater ] and now the engine should start .     

[aluck]

A lot of your number are wrong ,
A fulling charged battery should be 12.75 volts .
Without looking up the brand & model of your battery , and what the car requires , it should put out around 400 amps .
There are 2 ratings for batteries , cranking amps - 32*F and cold cranking amps - 0*F , at 0*F most batteries have 80% less capacity .
Again need to look up spec.s , the draw on the battery of 190 amps may be a little high but your volts [ 10.6 ] are low .

I did not claim that mine battery was fully charged, nor discharged (i.e. below 12.4 V without a load).

Also, Cold cranking amperes (CCA) is the amount of current a battery can provide at 0 °F (?18 °C). The rating is defined as the current a lead-acid battery at that temperature can deliver for 30 seconds and maintain at least 1.2 volts per cell (7.2 volts for a 12-volt battery). It is a more demanding test than those at higher temperatures. This is the most widely used cranking measurement for comparison purposes. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Automotive_battery

My battery DID provide 10.6 V, so it is up to spec. I know that this type of car (if not equipped with a car alarm) is capable of starting down to 9.8 V or thereabout. It is not good for car, but it is still possible.

I do not see this as a problem with battery. It is still about -21C outside (-5.8F for all of my non-metric friends), and is going be this way for a couple of weeks more. I will let you know if bushing replacement had 100% solved this problem.