The 13 appears to be a stock Digi-Key item.
Switchcraft nomenclature for their 1/4" phone jacks seems to use a 3 (not 3A, 3B, 3C, 3D, 3E, etc.) to indicate an isolated "make" circuit upon connection. So, the N113X (lead-free suffix, enclosed prefix) would also have the "make" switch needed. Does it need to be capable of stereo output, or does it just need to leave the ring connection alone?
It should be able to drive my Stereo Headphones with a Mono signal so R+L receive the same input. And it should survive someone pluggin in a Mono-Plug and putting out a single channel mono signal to it. I haven't settled on a discrete Output configuration since i dont know what the options are, yet.
So i want to sum up the options i have right know:
The open Frame Jack + Microswitch seems pretty nice but they get quite pricy stereo options i found on mouser are:
161-MJ161M-EX and the
14B these woul have to be pcb mounted and combine with something like these
Microswitches i originally thought of the endstop switches for 3Dprinters but the limitswitch category on mouser seems to be the wrong place, i cant find them outside of
aliexpress.
Biggest problem with this solution is the current rating of the switch (~100mA) i could only use it as a auxillary switch. Which would only bring me back to the PMOS solution, granted this time without standby draw.
Second is the "NO" Jack the 13 is only Mono and i don't think i can drive a HEadphones R+L Channel with that(please correct me if i am wrong). Same with the
N113X which has a 3 and 3E Variant both with the "NO" option but bot Mono too. The
MT336CX seems to be pretty big, i cant find a drawing and cost about 14€ in 1offs. It is also poorly documented since i can't tell if it's a mono stereo or whatever configuration as i wrote there is no drawing of it.
Third option is to switch a pmos with the "NC" Contacts and use something like this
NEUTRIK NR-J6HF