| Electronics > Projects, Designs, and Technical Stuff |
| Acute Logic & Lead CCTV PE-1005S HD Camera Module |
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| OzOnE:
There is one bit of "feature creep" added... The MIPI standard is becoming more and more popular on most mobile phone screens now, but it's also of course used on the CSI socket on the Rasp Pi. I don't know if it will work out yet, but I added the footprint for a 15-pin 0.5mm FPC to the "underside" of the board, so it can be connected directly to the MIPI CSI cam port on the Pi. My main reference material for this was Mike's superb video series on MIPI.. So yeah, it was just something fairly quick to add to the board. If it doesn't work, then it was worth a try. But if it does work, it could turn the cam module into a nice little camcorder or wifi cam, with a Pi Zero W hooked up. There's also a PCM1808 ADC chip on the board, so we can get some audio routed through to the HDMI port. If I get chance, I might add a 3.5mm socket for line-level audio. Should be simple enough to tweak the design later by adding electret or MEMs mics. |
| OzOnE:
I ordered ten of the PCBs via PCBway last night, plus a stencil for solder paste. (mainly for the tiny Panasonic connector for the cam.) This will be my first time using solder paste at home, so it could get interesting. lol I'll probably just manually solder the other parts. Once the FPGA and HDMI chips are soldered, the rest is straighforward. When I first uploaded the Gerbers, I chose 5/5 width/spacing, as I thought I had quite a few areas where the spacing was below 6 mil. But there were only about five traces on the other design (Atari ST VGA/HDMI board) which needed to be tweaked. The cam board was already fine with 6/6 mil, so it worked out quite a bit cheaper. For ten PCBs (for each design), it was only $6. With the original 5/5 spacing, it was $32, so quite a big difference in cost. (the minimum trace width on the whole board is 6 mil, but the clearance between the traces and ground pours was only 5 mil in some places. I just had to change the DRC settings, then hit the Ratsnest button again to fix it.) In my haste to get the boards ordered, I did forget to add some vias and copper pours for the regulators. Hopefully it won't be too bad on the dissipation, or may require small heatsinks on one or two of them. Not much of a voltage drop from the 5V input anyway. |
| Mjolinor:
If it will help I have a reflow oven not doing owt that I can lend out but it will have to be picked up and brought back. I am not posting it so it needs to be someone close-ish to Burnley. It is one of these: https://www.instructables.com/id/T962A-SMD-Reflow-Oven-FixHack/ |
| OzOnE:
Thanks. Much appreciated. I'll see if I can give it a go with some solder paste first, as I've ordered a stencil for the board. I can solder the rest of the components manually, but I have a feeling the tiny connector might be tricky. The pitch is so fine, I imagine the stencil will just run lines of solder paste across the pads anyway, so I'll try with the hot air station. The PCBs have just been shipped, and the parts arrived from Mouser yesterday. I'll keep this thread updated on progress. |
| OzOnE:
PCBs and stencil arrived... I'm surprised that they were still able to cut the tiny holes in the stencil for the camera connector. Now I need to buy some solder paste. Might as well try doing the whole board using the stencil, too. Still no reflow oven working, so I'll probably just use the stencil for the connector using the hot air station, then manually solder the rest. |
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