EEVblog® Electronics Community Forum
Electronics => Projects, Designs, and Technical Stuff => Topic started by: vzoole on January 13, 2013, 05:45:33 pm
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I would like to share an airsoft - paintball chrono that I made.
"Underspeed Chrono Light"
Version: 1.0
Last modification: 08.01.2016
DIY, homemade Airsoft Chrono light v1.0 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QV4vBEZVB_8#ws)
Some tecnical info:
Set AVR clock to external crystal.
LED:
Any IR (infra red) LED.
Best under 60 degrees
7 segment LED display:
common cathode, common sticks.
For example:
KINGBRIGHT ELECTRONIC BC56-12SRWA
http://www.tme.eu/hu/details/bc56-12srwa/harmas-led-kijelzok/kingbright-electronic/# (http://www.tme.eu/hu/details/bc56-12srwa/harmas-led-kijelzok/kingbright-electronic/#)
Phototransistor:
Many type working well.
I tested BPW17 and SFH309FA phototransistors.
PCB size:
81mm x 85mm
!!! LED1, LED2 polarity is WRONG on the schematic !!!
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I like it .... :-+
I wish I still used my paintball guns again but might build your setup for my brother though..
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hello
so i build it, but its not working, and i would like to know why.
when i turn it on, the display start blink (at frequency like 25hz), and show just three zeroes.
i used 1n4007 instead of 1n4004, and ATMEGA8A-PU instead of ATMEGA8-PU (i couldnt find this, and "google say" they are the almost same,)
could anything of that make problem?
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I think the problem could be the avr clock setup.
You have to set clock source to external crystal (high fequency) and disable CKOPT.
Check the first post, I attached display of clock setup.
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i am finally reprogrammed processor, display works fine now, but dont measure.. only show 3 zeroes.
i used R1-R7 = 150 ohm (but this shouldnt matter, it can be 150-220)
btw, R11 = 91 ohm? (just to be sure)
i don´t know exactly what IR LED i used, it looks like this one
http://www.sos.sk/?str=371&artnum=11936&name=kingbright-l-53sf4bt (http://www.sos.sk/?str=371&artnum=11936&name=kingbright-l-53sf4bt)
i mean, can dark color of the LED be a problem?
everything else (except what i alredy wrote in previous post) is same as your
edit: i tried IR led from old mouse, but still no output on display..
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Hi!
btw, R11 = 91 ohm? (just to be sure)
Yes, R11 is 91 Ohm, but best if you measure IR LED current, and you choose correct resistor value.
i mean, can dark color of the LED be a problem?
IR LED with filter is good. You can check the lighting, with a camera or phone.
And check the PD2 and PD3 leg with multimeter. Measure voltage there, after cross the light and measure again. Share the values.
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i changed R11 to 47 ohm (added 100 ohm parallel).
i measured PD2/3 before and it was 5V/3V, now it is 5V/2V and the chrono works correctly.
i thought cameras have IR filter therefore little ir light is see. Becouse of that i didnt realized LEDs shine too weak
Thanks for your help!
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Hi
so i build it, but its not working , the 7segement not show any thing ! |O
please help me
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How are you timing the delay?
Are both light sensors on hardware interrupts where you start the timer on one and read the value on the other?
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so i build it, but its not working , the 7segement not show any thing ! |O
I think program isn't run. Please search an AVR topic or tutorial to find the problem.
Are both light sensors on hardware interrupts where you start the timer on one and read the value on the other?
You think well, just a little different. Timer is always run. I reset at 1st interrupt, and read at 2nd interrupt.
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Hi dear vzoole
may you tell me how to program your ATMega8 ?
I have STK500 Programmer , but i don`t know how to program my ATMega8
thanks
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may you tell me how to program your ATMega8 ?
I use AVR Studio 4.
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hi friend
I built it again butdn't work
I program atmega with stk500 by avr studio 4 ,but 7segement don't show anything
Please help me
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Check clock and display outputs on AVR with scope.
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nice little project.
Thanks for sharing! D
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Nice project! What is is actually displaying? MPH, km/h, inches per second, just the time between?
Thanks!
-Tim
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Thanks!
Actually show FPS in video.
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Hi,
I made your chrono but it not work correctly. Slow speed show (under 20 fps) but higher speed no....I use phototransistor SFH309 and I programmed in Pony prog becouse I have only LPT programer and in AVR studio not work. Do you tested it with airgun cal. .177?
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Hi!
Maybe you doesn't switch off CKOPT option that is dividing the clock by 8.
So if you measure 20FPS that could be around 160FPS in real ( 20*8 ).
So please check the FUSE bits.
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Install the software on a chip (Chrono_light_01_mPs.hex), but does not work. What should be the current work? What could be the reason?
(http://i.piccy.info/i9/cbb97341976cf72b8da4e3e12eeea6be/1395732362/4252/703037/IMAG1973_240.jpg) (http://piccy.info/view3/6123016/0e36305e095e98e9218f7136e4349032/)(http://i.piccy.info/a3/2014-03-25-07-26/i9-6123016/240x135-r/i.gif) (http://i.piccy.info/a3c/2014-03-25-07-26/i9-6123016/240x135-r)
How much should be volts?
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Minimum input voltage is 7.5V
Current without controller (only IR LEDs): ~30mA
With MCU and working 7 segment display: ~110mA
If you have no current flow you have supply problem.
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very nice project :)
i want to make one but im complety dummy for project
can you tell me what exactly i need parts for this porject;
example;
2x diode
1xatmelxxxxx
i readed first post but missing somethings like ressitors
2xphototransistors
2x ir led
1x atmega8pu
1xusbbasp for programming
....others ? :-// i can see in picture but i dont know names :o
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(http://i.piccy.info/i9/ac76cfad4dcdfcb448555b46b0d96bd0/1395906957/8079/703037/Chrono_light_v1_0_240.jpg) (http://piccy.info/view3/6134147/a7db3f7ee3f03ea618e8a56647e0a3b9/)(http://i.piccy.info/a3/2014-03-27-07-55/i9-6134147/240x215-r/i.gif) (http://i.piccy.info/a3c/2014-03-27-07-55/i9-6134147/240x215-r)
there is no voltage on the LED (red circle on the picture)
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can you tell me what exactly i need parts for this porject;
You can find parts in schematic in zip file at first post.
there is no voltage on the LED (red circle on the picture)
Check the input voltage on regulator input.
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Hi friend. Which firmware to measure in meters? Chrono_light_01_FPS.hex or Chrono_light_01_mPs.hex
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FPS: Foot Per Second
mPs: Meter Per Second
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(http://i.piccy.info/i9/a7943a4385d6c1946143a4c86442940d/1399816694/5316/703037/IMAG2077_240.jpg) (http://piccy.info/view3/6371424/fbc17c2c24463b741ac097ba0cb92159/)(http://i.piccy.info/a3/2014-05-11-13-58/i9-6371424/240x135-r/i.gif) (http://i.piccy.info/a3c/2014-05-11-13-58/i9-6371424/240x135-r)
(http://i.piccy.info/i9/fc78f0a494fac45fba8bd4c784db5252/1399816827/5410/703037/IMAG2079_240.jpg) (http://piccy.info/view3/6371452/23beb967eb6921ebc1c6e4bdb0acd13a/)(http://i.piccy.info/a3/2014-05-11-14-00/i9-6371452/240x135-r/i.gif) (http://i.piccy.info/a3c/2014-05-11-14-00/i9-6371452/240x135-r)
Please help. I suffer for a month |O |O |O . Brazed chronograph programmed chip. When connected to electricity is off 7 segment LED display. Watching through a mobile phone camera, LED work.
But when I turn the 7 segment LED display, light some segments.
Help razobratsya what could be the problem. Thank you.
(http://i.piccy.info/i9/935a45c80da1bb7c40da1b7d6d0e6ee0/1399817123/5008/703037/IMAG2078_240.jpg) (http://piccy.info/view3/6371515/904a2f10dd4046f89c8f0114c9a912b2/)(http://i.piccy.info/a3/2014-05-11-14-05/i9-6371515/240x135-r/i.gif) (http://i.piccy.info/a3c/2014-05-11-14-05/i9-6371515/240x135-r)
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First please take a picture about type of your 7 segment display.
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(http://i.piccy.info/i9/0c0c17a9be44289ff1c635fe305ce587/1399828912/3459/703037/1_240.jpg) (http://piccy.info/view3/6372677/d12421d1c9efcdf973c0a363beef4c5a/)(http://i.piccy.info/a3/2014-05-11-17-21/i9-6372677/240x135-r/i.gif) (http://i.piccy.info/a3c/2014-05-11-17-21/i9-6372677/240x135-r)
(http://i.piccy.info/i9/636cd7994bac4eb72e93ac2054736dbc/1399828831/2842/703037/2_240.jpg) (http://piccy.info/view3/6372663/52a7e5e7b7a7179acf360c0003ec8f0c/)(http://i.piccy.info/a3/2014-05-11-17-20/i9-6372663/240x135-r/i.gif) (http://i.piccy.info/a3c/2014-05-11-17-20/i9-6372663/240x135-r)
(http://i.piccy.info/i9/ea27498c3a6987292083ed2b1712f757/1399828869/3883/703037/3_240.jpg) (http://piccy.info/view3/6372672/0afa9b199d2336db05f97181b5c563ab/)(http://i.piccy.info/a3/2014-05-11-17-21/i9-6372672/240x135-r/i.gif) (http://i.piccy.info/a3c/2014-05-11-17-21/i9-6372672/240x135-r)
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The DP line is not connected so DP should never be on.
Either your leds are misaligned (wrong orientation) / polarity is wrong, or the wiring is wrong.
You can correct them, or find out the real wiring and write your own firmware to it.
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I checked this display and fit well in this circuit (but not upside down).
So the problem is something else.
Hard to do anything without an oscilloscope.
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Does a problem mean not in 7 segment display? Do I understand correctly? A problem means or in details or I not correctly zaprogramiroval chip.
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Connect power chronograph 7.5 volts. Multimeter measured current: LED - 1,18 volts, phototransistors - 0.05 volts. :palm:
Again, instead of chip ATMEGA8-PU I have is ATMEGA8A-PU.
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Can you measure voltage on resistors leg (at mcu side) which are between display and mcu?
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If I were to desing something like this, I would do it different: I would build it around a barrel (like a piece of pvc pipe) that can be mounted easily onto the gun. The sensors can be fixated to the side of the pipe and the display bounded on a pcb along the pipe.
It would be more rugged that way.
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(http://i.piccy.info/i9/95975cb6450d476df69729f90510b3b2/1400276513/5976/747660/1690421_240.jpg) (http://piccy.info/view3/6403603/3af95dea23f2bff5950fcc1507758756/)(http://i.piccy.info/a3/2014-05-16-21-41/i9-6403603/240x135-r/i.gif) (http://i.piccy.info/a3c/2014-05-16-21-41/i9-6403603/240x135-r)
9 volt power supply. I measured the voltage across the resistors between the display and the MCU. Resistors R1-R7 (180) is zero. No stress! Resistors R8-R10 (2.2K) is 1.4 volts.
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If I were to desing something like this, I would do it different: I would build it around a barrel (like a piece of pvc pipe) that can be mounted easily onto the gun. The sensors can be fixated to the side of the pipe and the display bounded on a pcb along the pipe.
It would be more rugged that way.
Here's a link to a chronograph http://chronolite2.narod.ru/ (http://chronolite2.narod.ru/) But I believe that Airsoft - paintball chrono much more practical and convenient.
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Please measure it again, but now between ground and resistors mcu side leg.
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Measured. Resistors R1, 3,4,5,6 - 5 volts. R7 is no voltage - zero. Resistors R8, 9,10 - 0,25 volts.
I measured at these points (http://i.piccy.info/i9/3255da158982c5226f19412ea0d8d068/1400279636/7285/747660/1_240.jpg) (http://piccy.info/view3/6403722/8056bf75a3c4a7426f1a37fcf7b13304/)(http://i.piccy.info/a3/2014-05-16-22-33/i9-6403722/240x135-r/i.gif) (http://i.piccy.info/a3c/2014-05-16-22-33/i9-6403722/240x135-r)
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I measured at these points
Thats bad, because I asked you measure on resistor leg but which is next to the controller.
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Measured at these points (http://i.piccy.info/i9/f5083c6883599316f70cbc8c17c023bf/1400280344/7292/747660/IMAG2099_240.jpg) (http://piccy.info/view3/6403732/ea467f9845bcf7c7b6eb7272f52813ba/)(http://i.piccy.info/a3/2014-05-16-22-45/i9-6403732/240x135-r/i.gif) (http://i.piccy.info/a3c/2014-05-16-22-45/i9-6403732/240x135-r)
Resistors R1, 3,4,5,6 - 5,05 Volts. R7 is no voltage - zero. Resistors R8, 9,10 -. 1.65 volts
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It's looks good. Can you take a picture about your transistors type?
Or make a short contact between the transistor two side leg for short time. What does it show then?
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(http://i.piccy.info/i9/be700fe90b9adb129845999e28c25fc6/1400281389/4969/747660/IMAG2100_240.jpg) (http://piccy.info/view3/6403754/0a2c6fef87ebc6c3d2717a9feb6f02a1/)(http://i.piccy.info/a3/2014-05-16-23-03/i9-6403754/135x240-r/i.gif) (http://i.piccy.info/a3c/2014-05-16-23-03/i9-6403754/135x240-r)
Transistors - (http://i.piccy.info/i9/310ea2dcdff73e69d9a9fd4407dc5047/1400281709/7355/747660/IMAG2104_240.jpg) (http://piccy.info/view3/6403761/72c57ec7b6f07a777446b58d6c1cfb51/)(http://i.piccy.info/a3/2014-05-16-23-08/i9-6403761/240x135-r/i.gif) (http://i.piccy.info/a3c/2014-05-16-23-08/i9-6403761/240x135-r)
How to check the transistor (if this is needed).
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And maybe the transistor. Need BC546, and I used BC546B. Maybe that is what affects the inefficiency? :scared:
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Not...
Try this: make a short contact between the transistor two side leg for short time. What does it show then?
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(http://i.piccy.info/i9/c1c6c6746a3a374c80289f3801940b47/1400284815/7087/747660/IMAG2106_240.jpg) (http://piccy.info/view3/6403776/bf6d59f748d5537322d2e423a36305f8/)(http://i.piccy.info/a3/2014-05-17-00-00/i9-6403776/240x135-r/i.gif) (http://i.piccy.info/a3c/2014-05-17-00-00/i9-6403776/240x135-r)
I do not understand. You need to short-circuit the two legs of the transistors?
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Almost... make short between two side leg (E - C)
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Short circuit all three transistors?
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just one, any.
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Sorry, but nothing happened. The indicator has not responded.
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Maybe the whole thing in the wrong processor programming ATMEGA8A-PU?
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Remowe the controller and make a short between PIN 7 and PIN 15.
Same time make a short on one transistor side legs (E -C).
Does the display show something?
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(http://i.piccy.info/i9/be07b766676e5b084c6af4383b9005b5/1400289476/5216/747660/IMAG2110_240.jpg) (http://piccy.info/view3/6403827/ea01ea098b31af1ba100cf45262ed0f2/)(http://i.piccy.info/a3/2014-05-17-01-17/i9-6403827/240x135-r/i.gif) (http://i.piccy.info/a3c/2014-05-17-01-17/i9-6403827/240x135-r)
All done. But nothing. The indicator has not responded (photo). And yet, when I took ATMEGA8-PU, still lit LEDs.
(http://i.piccy.info/i9/353f7e6bfb83a2b559c5b25cfd3653a3/1400288918/5004/747660/IMAG2108_240.jpg) (http://piccy.info/view3/6403818/c5ffae61a9e5db518f4aee9602e877ef/)(http://i.piccy.info/a3/2014-05-17-01-08/i9-6403818/240x135-r/i.gif) (http://i.piccy.info/a3c/2014-05-17-01-08/i9-6403818/240x135-r)
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Try again perepronramirovat ATMEGA8A-PU, can help. If not, I will look for where it can be a mistake. If there are hints that it may be, I will be grateful.
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At this point, I would retrace the board and make sure that it is consistent with the schematic.
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Dear may already tired of my questions, but I still do not understand, will not rest. Publish photos chronograph from all sides. Checking the installation, all in accordance with the scheme. Details respectively indicated. Closures and without defects. I think that may be the problem of the correctness of programming ATMEGA8A-PU. I do not know how and what to check.
(http://i.piccy.info/i9/17881dedd204b295bfec1d578c30382a/1400439216/7465/747660/IMAG2116_240.jpg) (http://piccy.info/view3/6412067/36043e5dd5226e616d092a37d2a1ef74/)(http://i.piccy.info/a3/2014-05-18-18-53/i9-6412067/240x135-r/i.gif) (http://i.piccy.info/a3c/2014-05-18-18-53/i9-6412067/240x135-r)
(http://i.piccy.info/i9/d94274e188b988d55b8f130e685fbc7f/1400439232/8139/747660/IMAG2117_240.jpg) (http://piccy.info/view3/6412068/31d2d9a60a51d032ef52dd09a0ac17db/)(http://i.piccy.info/a3/2014-05-18-18-53/i9-6412068/240x135-r/i.gif) (http://i.piccy.info/a3c/2014-05-18-18-53/i9-6412068/240x135-r)
(http://i.piccy.info/i9/3e1a05e778b540719d8bde162bdbdfdc/1400439301/7980/747660/IMAG2118_240.jpg) (http://piccy.info/view3/6412079/2521f02290795370f212ec119dfb7d9d/)(http://i.piccy.info/a3/2014-05-18-18-55/i9-6412079/240x135-r/i.gif) (http://i.piccy.info/a3c/2014-05-18-18-55/i9-6412079/240x135-r)
(http://i.piccy.info/i9/028bba9dc4965de5fe50cee31f1ab053/1400439330/7783/747660/IMAG2119_240.jpg) (http://piccy.info/view3/6412083/e75f7d30f88bbd78caa31e3233488e3c/)(http://i.piccy.info/a3/2014-05-18-18-55/i9-6412083/240x135-r/i.gif) (http://i.piccy.info/a3c/2014-05-18-18-55/i9-6412083/240x135-r)
(http://i.piccy.info/i9/6248788088aac0d322268003a20d0f58/1400439368/7695/747660/IMAG2120_240.jpg) (http://piccy.info/view3/6412089/6e72300c9e106b591991c59b949cda26/)(http://i.piccy.info/a3/2014-05-18-18-56/i9-6412089/240x135-r/i.gif) (http://i.piccy.info/a3c/2014-05-18-18-56/i9-6412089/240x135-r)
(http://i.piccy.info/i9/5bd0c43e006e46e824643a122a03deff/1400439385/6746/747660/IMAG2121_240.jpg) (http://piccy.info/view3/6412092/c075c59f81a14f911d0e5055987ae2c8/)(http://i.piccy.info/a3/2014-05-18-18-56/i9-6412092/240x135-r/i.gif) (http://i.piccy.info/a3c/2014-05-18-18-56/i9-6412092/240x135-r)
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Next time remove the controller (as I asked) before you make short on their connections or you may damage it.
What's the value of R1? Can you measure it?
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Value R1 - 180 ohms. At a voltage value of 180 ohms.
Value R11 - 91 Ohms. When feeding is 0 ohms. When I connect the voltage value of R11 - 91 Ohm disappears. Multimeter shows nothing.
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Learned controller. Made a short circuit between PIN 7 and PIN 15. Same time made ??a short one transistor lateral branches (EC). But the indicator did not show (photo).
(http://i.piccy.info/i9/de9e260b89d495684625a3a91cd329de/1400443632/7709/747660/IMAG2122_240.jpg) (http://piccy.info/view3/6412591/e5940a4f8022dae4cfbfa24d71e109cc/)(http://i.piccy.info/a3/2014-05-18-20-07/i9-6412591/240x135-r/i.gif) (http://i.piccy.info/a3c/2014-05-18-20-07/i9-6412591/240x135-r)
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Apply voltage: R11 - 2,6 volts. But in this case, R1-7 - 0 volts, R8-10 and - 1.4 volts.
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Something wrong around 7 segment display. It get direct voltage in this test so must be light.
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(http://i.piccy.info/i9/ed4371f3755a969e62e1f4b2291c8d39/1400447148/7513/747660/IMAG2116_240.jpg) (http://piccy.info/view3/6412774/c52bd35b6bd6326f615d76e6a778ea8a/)(http://i.piccy.info/a3/2014-05-18-21-05/i9-6412774/240x135-r/i.gif) (http://i.piccy.info/a3c/2014-05-18-21-05/i9-6412774/240x135-r)
Question. What is it and whether these contacts zamykatsya?
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AVR ISP (https://www.google.hu/search?q=avr+icp&es_sm=122&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=YiF5U7v4IcKu7AasyIDADQ&ved=0CAgQ_AUoAQ&biw=1280&bih=899#q=avr+isp&tbm=isch)
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What voltage should be on these contacts (on the legs of the display)?
(http://i.piccy.info/i9/1aee94d196fa0f43d6081d19fadc5366/1400448079/7476/747660/13_240.jpg) (http://piccy.info/view3/6412818/fad4f5a4a1012399f8aee86ce0fd94e0/)(http://i.piccy.info/a3/2014-05-18-21-21/i9-6412818/240x135-r/i.gif) (http://i.piccy.info/a3c/2014-05-18-21-21/i9-6412818/240x135-r)
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(http://i.piccy.info/i9/cf7df9f72ca5de3b29ef1879ee6425c9/1400581414/4789/703037/IMAG2124_240.jpg) (http://piccy.info/view3/6420413/3a76f4ca342256a2bbe04eaaec19eeaf/)(http://i.piccy.info/a3/2014-05-20-10-23/i9-6420413/135x240-r/i.gif) (http://i.piccy.info/a3c/2014-05-20-10-23/i9-6420413/135x240-r)
(http://i.piccy.info/i9/8eabc4a8afd55d09a7a111c72be1fde2/1400581520/6590/703037/IMAG2125_240.jpg) (http://piccy.info/view3/6420423/8e71d5c2adbd7f6dbabf451f8775b0e9/)(http://i.piccy.info/a3/2014-05-20-10-26/i9-6420423/240x135-r/i.gif) (http://i.piccy.info/a3c/2014-05-20-10-26/i9-6420423/240x135-r)
Hello everyone. Hooray, I reached performance chronograph. The problem was in the indicator. He had a common anode and common cathode required:-DMM. Bought new, replaced and succeeded. Works. I am very glad :).
"Vzoole" Thank you for the product.
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Hey. Tell me, what maximum speed chronograph can measure (meter per second). Want to experience a firearm.
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Hy, could you please share the source code, i'm trying to build one almost like your's but i'm beginner intro codding and i would like to take a peak at the code. thanks pls feel free to email me.
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For a newbie, writing your own would be a much better learning experience.
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Hi, well i have an idea how to write my own code, but i have no idea how to get it more accurate, i mean i know i have to use timer1 (since it's 16bit) to count the time between the trigger on the first sensor and the second but i don't know how to do it exactly and i would like to see an example doing just that. Thanks
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The only way to solve that is by doing it.
You sound like to have a foundation but without opportunities to practice. This would be a good opportunity to do so.
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IR LEDs have their polarity reversed. The cathode should be connected towards the ground or negative side of the driving voltage source, and the anode toward the positive side.
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You are right! I have made mistake. I'll correct it as soon as I can.
Thanks for report.
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Nice project. Thanks!
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What a nice project - thank you so much for sharing.
I wonder if you could help me with a problem.
At the moment, I just have two blinking zeroes (voltage at pin 27 is 0).
I have programmed the chip fine, but when I set the fuses as per your image, I lose contact with the chip. Is it something to do with the external crystal clock not working for some reason? I have used a 10MHz crystal with 22p capacitors as per the information you uploaded. The crystal I am using has a capacitance of 30p.
Have you any idea what the problem may be?
Many thanks in advance
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What a nice project - thank you so much for sharing.
I wonder if you could help me with a problem.
At the moment, I just have two blinking zeroes (voltage at pin 27 is 0).
I have programmed the chip fine, but when I set the fuses as per your image, I lose contact with the chip. Is it something to do with the external crystal clock not working for some reason? I have used a 10MHz crystal with 22p capacitors as per the information you uploaded. The crystal I am using has a capacitance of 30p.
Have you any idea what the problem may be?
Many thanks in advance
http://mdiy.pl/atmega-fusebit-doctor-hvpp/?lang=en (http://mdiy.pl/atmega-fusebit-doctor-hvpp/?lang=en)
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http://mdiy.pl/atmega-fusebit-doctor-hvpp/?lang=en (http://mdiy.pl/atmega-fusebit-doctor-hvpp/?lang=en)
Thanks for this.
I am absolute 100% certain that I set the fuse bits correctly - I set them exactly as in the screenshot uploaded with the project. However, after I set the fuse bits, I lose contact with the chip and the circuit ceases to function.
So what could be wrong? Could my crystal/resonator not be suitable somehow? I have made a simple circuit with just the resonator and capacitors and avr programmer connections, and still it does not work. I would be grateful for any assistance you could provide.
I'm using an ATMEGA8A-PU. Could it be possible that the fuse bits are different on this compared to the ATMEGA8?
Thanks in advance,
Jody
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Also, what are the error codes, ERR1 and ERR2? Perhaps I have the polarity of the phototransistors backwards?
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Hi all,
Finally got this working - thanks again for posting the project.
The default value for CKOPT is 1 and I believe it needs to be set to 0 to get the external oscillator working. At least this is what got it working for me. These were my fuse settings:
Low: 0xFF
High: 0xC9
This isn't the same as what is shown in the fuses image - but the fuse settings above work for me and give me accurate FPS readings.
I also had to set a low value for R11 to increase the led irradiance and get the PD2/3 voltages down towards 2V. R11 for me is around 37 Ohms which means there's around 68mA going through the LEDs which is probably a little much? Perhaps my LED's and Phototransistor aren't matched very well.
I've posted by board below... not as pretty as some of the others, but this is a first for me! After destroying an LED with a BB, I decided to install a tube, which itself has taken a few hits!
Thanks again
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Hello everybody. Prompt optical distance between pairs should be 3 cm (30 mm)?
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It must be 30mm.
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(http://i.piccy.info/i9/bca5572e2ea55804a63ef36b55a7aded/1458049553/6013/1014485/IMG_6531_240.jpg) (http://piccy.info/view3/9547538/ec7b92840f2c4ce034a76a141f28b15e/)(http://i.piccy.info/a3/2016-03-15-13-45/i9-9547538/240x180-r/i.gif) (http://i.piccy.info/a3c/2016-03-15-13-45/i9-9547538/240x180-r)
Made chronograph. Everything is working . But he did not respond to bullets for air rifle . Why is that? Can the sensors do not react to metal or firmware need another ? Someone can tell me the answer?
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Awesome
Made something similar a while back, only difference is that my one was used to detect how many BB's have shot through the barrel to give an estimate on the BB's in the mag.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c0wvae2pl6c (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c0wvae2pl6c)
What do you use to program the micro?
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To program the chip , I used a homemade programmer .
What is the maximum speed calculating your chronograph ? On what he is capable of a maximum? :palm:
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UA:
The program can calculate more than it can display.
In your case the main issues are the sensors.
Your air gun bullets are smaller than airsoft BB so not too easy to align with both sensor when you shoot.
And can be faster too so maybe the used phototransistors isn't fast enough.
ANTALIFE
Nice job!
(I used AVRstudio with homemade programmer)
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Hello
i build this crono but its not working, and i would like to know why?
Movie with my problem:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DRzEnN-0_5I&feature=youtu.be (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DRzEnN-0_5I&feature=youtu.be)
Thank you!
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Set your video to public.
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my video is puplic
https://youtu.be/DRzEnN-0_5I (https://youtu.be/DRzEnN-0_5I)
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I guess your pencil is slower than 1FPS.
Er1 mean error 1: You have action at front sensor but not at rear sensor.
It is happening at all normal measure, but rear sensor clear the error and calculate value.
Er2 mean error 2: You have action at rear sensor but not after the front sensor.
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thank you,
I will try tomorrow airsoft replica
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sir i want measuring cricket ball speed km/h
i set first sensor and second sensor distance 10 meter
how the change in code
plz help me
Thanks
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This phototransistors are difficult to get in Poland. Can anyone recommend me different?
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You can buy both in TME which is a poland webstore.
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Anyone synchronize this with normal chrono? This showing similar results?
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Really nice project. Do you work on rev. 2 of it? I saw on your youtube channel version with enclosure, button to change FPS to MPS and also ROF counter...
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Hi Vzoole
I built your paintball chrono and it works pretty good.
I made a small circuit to inject 2 pules in (50 us wide) with a delay between the two pules to check how fast the board could read.
I could simulate a paintball traveling between the sensors.
The readings look good until the pulses are about 350 micro seconds apart, then the readings on the leds suddenly go to "3".
Up to then, the readings were in the hundreds range.
Is the minimum time for sensing the two pulses for the interrupts 350 us?
I would have thought it should be in the 10 us or less range.
Do you know?
Thank for any information you might have.
Steve