Right - just to confirm:
- AA-battery IN (any number >> any voltage)
- 3.3V OUT
- 5.0V OUT
Were I doing this I'd use a simple switching regulator like
this LM78xx Pin-compatable 3.3V Regulator - all you need is two smoothing caps on the input/output and you're good to go, with a dropout voltage of 4.75V.
The
5.0V version has a dropout voltage of 6.5V - so you'd probably want 5 or 6 AA batteries powering it.
The downfall with these switching regulators is the ±3% regulation on them - in the case of the 3.3V line that'd be in the region of 3.2 to 3.4V - which is within the 2.7-3.6V specified by
Toshiba,
Sandisk and
Transcend - you'll need to decide for yourself if they're accurate enough for your needs though!
These particular regulators have 97% efficiency - so they shouldn't hurt battery life too much (but as I said, you'd still need 5 or 6 AA batteries to provide the initial voltage: once the batteries discharge a bit you'll get below the 6.5V dropout, IF I recall correctly, the 5.0V regulator will start falling off. It will still work for a little below that dropout voltage - but how far below that voltage I can't say - depends on a lot of factors.
You might also consider either using enough batteries that the voltage will be above the dropout voltage even when the batteries are 90% discharged (which I think would be upwards of eight batteries? I'd need to consult some datasheets to get a better figure) - OR - using a step-up buck converter to get the same effect, at the expense of deep discharging the batteries and having lower current handling capabilities (if there's no energy left in the battery, it doesn't matter what tricks you use to boost the voltage, it won't be able to provide much current!)
The best advice I can give is to check out the datasheets regardless of what you do!
I'd be inclined to try and figure out what happens as the batteries discharge - for instance, in this case the 5V rail will cut out before the 3.3V rail will - can you use that to safely shut the device down?