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Best printer for toner transfer

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SilverSolder:

--- Quote from: kile on November 28, 2021, 03:45:28 pm ---I bought a HP Neverstop Laser MFP 1200 a few months ago, and now I have tried to make PCBs with it. And all I can say is: success!!  :-+
I haven't toner transfered PCBs in a few years, but with the new EU regulations about import fees, and the fact that I need to make a few low-resolution THT PCBs, I decided to try it out with this printer. So I took an old leftover piece of the blue Press-n-Peel foil, a PCB image from my last Fab-ed design, and made an experiment.
I am a bit rusty with this, so I made a few mistakes: the iron was too hot, and I held it down too long, so there is some smudging on one edge. But none of the traces seem to be broken (12 mils is my thinnest trace here), and while I can see that some neighbouring traces would short, that can be easily fixed with larger spacing in the DRC.

Please note that I have never tried toner transfer with shiny newspapers or any other kind of paper. I have only ever used the blue Press-n-Peel foil, so I have no idea if paper transfer would work. But this does and I am happy!

--- End quote ---

That's a nice dark, deep black over the ground plane areas! Looks much better than I've seen from a laser before.  Looks like HP has improved the technology with this generation of printers!

tooki:

--- Quote from: kile on November 28, 2021, 03:45:28 pm ---I bought a HP Neverstop Laser MFP 1200 a few months ago, and now I have tried to make PCBs with it. And all I can say is: success!!  :-+
I haven't toner transfered PCBs in a few years, but with the new EU regulations about import fees, and the fact that I need to make a few low-resolution THT PCBs, I decided to try it out with this printer. So I took an old leftover piece of the blue Press-n-Peel foil, a PCB image from my last Fab-ed design, and made an experiment.
I am a bit rusty with this, so I made a few mistakes: the iron was too hot, and I held it down too long, so there is some smudging on one edge. But none of the traces seem to be broken (12 mils is my thinnest trace here), and while I can see that some neighbouring traces would short, that can be easily fixed with larger spacing in the DRC.

Please note that I have never tried toner transfer with shiny newspapers or any other kind of paper. I have only ever used the blue Press-n-Peel foil, so I have no idea if paper transfer would work. But this does and I am happy!

--- End quote ---
I’m actually not surprised: HP’s lasers are now homegrown, thanks to their acquisition of Samsung’s printer division some years ago. And the (now dead) Samsung laser printer I had produced hands-down the best toner transfers I’ve managed so far.

ogden:
Every time someone asks for toner transfer, I suggest inkjet pigment printer and (silkscreen) transparencies, presensitized PCB and low cost "nail UV lamp". Toner transfer is full of "what is best for", "how do I", then trial and errors to find that "it still depends". Seeing definition you can get with UV resist and low defect rate - you will come back to thank me. Note that you need only black ink to be pigment type, CMY can be dye.

[edit] Those who already got PCB's for toner transfer - buy photoresist film to make "presensitized PCB" yourself.

SilverSolder:

--- Quote from: ogden on November 29, 2021, 09:04:16 pm ---Every time someone asks for toner transfer, I suggest inkjet pigment printer and (silkscreen) transparencies, presensitized PCB and low cost "nail UV lamp". Toner transfer is full of "what is best for", "how do I", then trial and errors to find that "it still depends". Seeing definition you can get with UV resist and low defect rate - you will come back to thank me. Note that you need only black ink to be pigment type, CMY can be dye.

[edit] Those who already got PCB's for toner transfer - buy photoresist film to make "presensitized PCB" yourself.

--- End quote ---

I do both methods - I agree with you that the transparency method is better, but the toner transfer method also works very well after you've honed it in!

cdev:
Before I printg the toner onto trhe PCB material I use s scour pad to brade it really well. (Scotch lite)  This vastly increases the ability of the toner to fully coat the copper, increasing the amont that is etched away by an order of magnitude.  Just as I was getting the best results I have to date my printer seems to have developed some kind of logic problem.

Which really sucks because I have lots of toner and paper for it right now.  Its a workhorse generic Samsung ML-1210. It was a great deal for around $150 originally. Its been serving me well for around three years.

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