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Best way to jump 2.5mm gap between PCBs?

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3dgeo:

--- Quote from: Wendy_Preston on October 18, 2019, 09:00:10 am ---Not trying to criticise, but...

--- End quote ---

Not trying to criticize, but... alternatives I found are in order of magnitudes cheaper.

I did specify current requirements and if there were any more restrictions I would have pointed them out.


Ysjoelfir:

--- Quote from: 3dgeo on October 18, 2019, 10:20:44 am ---Not trying to criticize, but... alternatives I found are in order of magnitudes cheaper.
--- End quote ---

You get what you pay for :) I am not affiliated with harwin in any way, but I have used their connectors on several projects for my hobby and designed some into designs at work, too. Sure, you pay more, but I didn't have any problems regarding reliability, the datasheets are precise, you get usefull 3d models and the telephone support is excelent.
Once I searched for a reliable connector which gets actuated very very little (once a year or less), gets exposed to all kind of atmospheres that could potentially build up dirt and grime on the contacts, must work for high current as well as very low current and has to maintain a very low contact resistance. I talked with the support and got an excelent solution. They took their time talking with me, even though I didn't need very high volumes of that thing.
That is it worth for me spending a bit more, since I assume I will have less problems that need (expensive) time to fix them if I use good parts to start with.

tszaboo:
Standard 2.54mm SMD or TH right angle pins on one board.

Same with  the header on the other board.

Slide them together. The plastic is 2.54 or 2.5mm thick.
The pictures are enormous, and I have no ide how to make it smaller.

Wendy_Preston:

--- Quote from: Ysjoelfir on October 18, 2019, 12:00:00 pm ---
--- Quote from: 3dgeo on October 18, 2019, 10:20:44 am ---Not trying to criticize, but... alternatives I found are in order of magnitudes cheaper.
--- End quote ---

You get what you pay for :) I am not affiliated with harwin in any way, but I have used their connectors on several projects for my hobby and designed some into designs at work, too. Sure, you pay more, but I didn't have any problems regarding reliability, the datasheets are precise, you get usefull 3d models and the telephone support is excelent.
Once I searched for a reliable connector which gets actuated very very little (once a year or less), gets exposed to all kind of atmospheres that could potentially build up dirt and grime on the contacts, must work for high current as well as very low current and has to maintain a very low contact resistance. I talked with the support and got an excelent solution. They took their time talking with me, even though I didn't need very high volumes of that thing.
That is it worth for me spending a bit more, since I assume I will have less problems that need (expensive) time to fix them if I use good parts to start with.

--- End quote ---
Thanks for that Ysjoelfir - not trying to say Harwin is the best/only/cheap solution - we are not. The connector industry is enormous with many variations on products, and we're careful not to make any assumptions on specifications that are not mentioned, as we know that Harwin are not always the right fit - hence the additional questions. But if cost is your primary driver, then there are lots of other solutions out there, and I'm sure you'll find something that will do the job perfectly adequately. "Horses for courses" as they say in Britain (not sure how far that translates!). I hope you find exactly what you are looking for, 3dgeo, you have my best wishes in your endeavour.

PS The reason I mentioned current, even though you stated the average level, was to consider any additional surges or spikes, these are just the sort of items that we try and consider with our customers.

MSS:
I think board to board connector like this will be good way to solve the problem:
https://www.molex.com/molex/products/datasheet.jsp?part=active/0787326021_PCB_HEADERS.xml

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