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Borderlands style jewelry box research thread
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Youkai:
Posted another post for just the NeoPixel issue. Wow, Just wow. I'm a dummy. In my "lidPixel" initialization I used "neoPixelCount" twice instead of using "neoPixelPin" for the second parameter. That was the problem.

It works now. Moving on!
Youkai:
In a previous post in this thread Ian.M was talking about interrupt issues with the servo Library and the NeoPixels. I did a little googling about various color swipe libraries and saw this TiCoServo library that seems to be able to run alongside something like FastLED.

https://learn.adafruit.com/neopixels-and-servos/the-ticoservo-library

Does anybody know how well these work? Specifically the TiCoServo library.
Youkai:
Ok so I'm thinking the photointerrupter switch is over-engineering based on my initial thought of having a simple photo resistor as the trigger for the drawers. It would be much simpler to have the drawers simply push a button when they are closed. I'm thinking something like this instead: https://www.jameco.com/z/SS-5GL2-Omron-Snap-Action-Switch-N-O-N-C-Single-Pole-Double-Throw-Hinge-Roller-Lever-Solder-5-Amp-250-Volt-AC-14-Volt-0-49n-Screw-Mount_187733.html

The thing is that is rated for AC. Can I just assume it will work with my DC circuit? My little 5v won't be pushing anywhere near even a full amp though it.

EDIT: I'm also SUPER confused about this barrel plug receiver schematic. I assume I only need to use two of the three pins but I can't make heads or tails of which is which.
https://www.jameco.com/z/WTJ-020-37A-2-1mm-Male-DC-Power-Jack-Breadboard-PCB-Mount-_2210677.html?CID=MERCH
https://www.jameco.com/Jameco/Products/ProdDS/2210677.pdf
Ok after a little more review I think it's saying pin 1 (the one at the back) is connected to the "pin". Then pins 2 and 3 are tied together to the barrel? Is that correct?

What's the standard for the pin being positive or negative? If i'm reading the wall-wart spec correctly I think it's saying the "center" is positive so that would make the "pin" of the jack the positive lead correct? https://www.jameco.com/Jameco/Products/ProdDS/1952847.pdf
Ian.M:
I haven't used the Ticoservo library, but as it's written by an Adafruit staff member, it's extremely likely that it will 'do what it says on the tin'.

Yes, you could use a microswitch,  but that's a mighty big and chunky one for a small project.  You can get them half that size and you only need a roller if you are actuating it with a sliding movement in line with the top of it.  If the motion simply presses the lever down directly you just need a long lever you can bend to shape to suit.

If you read its datasheet carefully, you'll see it does have a DC rating (table "General-purpose 5 A max. (Standard rivet contacts)" on page 2 of the Omron datasheet), but for logic level switching the manufacturer recommends the Microvoltage/microcurrent load 0.1 A max. (Bifurcated crossbar contacts) variant.   You should get away with it as long as you put a reasonable wetting current through the contacts (I wouldn't go below 5mA), and youv'e *never* used that individual switch for AC or a high current inductive DC load.

The DC jack has three contacts because its designed to disconnect a battery pack when the plug is inserted.  If you look at its datasheet, you'll see contact 3 is the one that goes open circuit when the plug is in.  1 is the center pin and 2 the barrel contact.  If in doubt, check with your DMM when it arrives.  Either ignore contact 3 or connect it to the same track as contact 2.  *MOST* kit with DC jacks is center positive nowadays, but that isn't a hard and fast rule.  Some Japanese stuff + musical effects boxes/pedals are typically center negative.  If not marked and you aren't sure the PSU is the correct one, *ALWAYS* check polarity, opening the device up to find its ground rail if you have to.
Youkai:
Thanks Ian.M

I was thinking the roller because for the lid switch I want it to trigger after a little bit of travel on opening / before it's fully closed on closing. So I was thinking the roller would allow that.

Do you have a recommendation on what switch would be good; or could you provide me some keywords which would help me narrow my search? Searching for "lever switch" provides a lot of results :/

As far as the barrel connector goes; based on your explanation I connect pin 1 to the 9v rail, and pin 2 to the ground rail, and ignore pin 3. Correct?
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