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Building a motor controller for a Samsung brushless direct drive washer motor.

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Razerwire:
I also discovered that the stator windings are lacquered aluminum and not copper which makes it very undesirable for any kind of repressing which exposes it to the elements f or extended periods such as a home hydro electric generator or wind mill generator, which are the two most popular purposes for this type and shape of motor. I just got unlucky and scored a unit with the aluminum stator windings. It'd still make one hell of a motor for a garage/indoor/nice weather project.

DavidAlfa:
Check the driver in the board! You'll need to desolder it, the marking is often in the underside, the top is all heatsink.
Those kind of boards use igbt modules like SCM1242MF, FNA41560...

Razerwire:
Ok I see what you're saying. Slight roadblock is that the board is potted under half inch of silicone. Any clever way you know of to get through that without too much butchery?

Benta:
If the chematic is correct, it's like I said earlier: there are only two Hall sensors, U and V, the W phase being computed by the controller from those.

ElectricLove1975:
Hello!

I am trying to solve the exact problem you guys talked about in this thread with the exact same motor, but I do not have the control board. I am trying to control one of these motors using a commerical controller with a standard 5 pin hall effect sensor.

I have started a new thread about this here:
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/finding-a-controller-to-maximize-torque-in-salvaged-washing-machine-motor/

OP, did you end up using the controller from the original washing machine? I stupidly threw mine away when I took it apart so that isn't an option for me.

Is there a way to solve this 4 pin / 5 pin matchup issue outside of just replacing the sensor on the motor that I'm not seeing? Trying to replace the sensor seems like it could be really messy and very difficult to get exactly right as opposed to just figuring out how to convert the connection somehow.

Thanks!

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