Cleaning solutions

[alanb]

Are there any readily available chemicals that can be used for contact cleaning other than IPA? Many years ago I was able to use tricoethylene and carbon tetra chloride, both of which I understand have been banned from sale on health and safety grounds.

There are proprietary product available such as Detoxit but these appear to be very expensive. If there is no other choice I will have to settle for that.

[grumpydoc]

Any particular reason that IPA is not suitable?

Ethanol, acetone, IPA, naptha (lighter fuel) and MEK are fairly easy to get hold of. The ubiquitous "servisol" contact cleaner has a oxide removing cleaner of some sort as well as a lubricant.

You do have to watch that things like acetone and MEK don't dissolve the component, PCB or equipment you're trying to clean 

[alanb]

IPA doesn't appear to remove stubborn dirt very well. I use acetone for some jobs but I have done damage with it so I'm very cautious with it now. I'm not familiar with MEK I've just had a quick look on Wikipedia and it appears to be similar to acetone in some respects, does MEK have any advantages over acetone for contact cleaning?

I suppose that really I need to stop being so tight and invest in a purpose made contact cleaner.

[bookaboo]

If you can remove the actual contacts then depending on the material you could use the old coke trick. I've also heard but never tried HP Brown Sauce does something similar.
Rapid Electronics have a decent range of proper contact cleaners, not too expensive.

[SeanB]

MEK does a wonderful job of dissolving many plastics. I buy an ultra pure version of it at work ( Linx printer solvent) and about the only plastics it will not dissolve are certain epoxies, PTFE and the PET bottles it comes in though it does dissolve the cap of the bottle if you try to reclose a partial bottle. Not normally an issue as they are heat sealed with an aluminised top.

[Stonent]

I've used Ronsonol Lighter Fluid (naptha based) quite a bit to degrease plastics and remove most stuff that alcohol wipes won't remove. (*always test before using). It also works great for removing stickers and labels.

[nctnico]

I use bio-ethanol (>95%!) for cleaning. It works better than IPA and is also suitable as a flux remover.

[Stonent]

I use bio-ethanol (>95%!) for cleaning. It works better than IPA and is also suitable as a flux remover.

All my bio-ethanol is only 40%, but it mixes well with juice. 

[robrenz]

Deoxit is worth the money. Don't buy spray bottles buy the liquid and use micro brushes or syringe with fine tip to apply.

D100L is for general contact cleaning and G100L is for gold contact seal and lube. look at the last three test documents on the left side of the technical document page of the Caig site and you will see this is not snake oil. Search the forum for "Deoxit" and you will find lots of input.

I am the official cult leader and I do drink it 

[IanB]

IPA doesn't appear to remove stubborn dirt very well. I use acetone for some jobs but I have done damage with it so I'm very cautious with it now.

Powerful solvents have a hard time distinguishing between dirt and things you want to keep. The 1,1,1-trichloroethane ("Tric") that you mentioned from days past is the solvent to beat all solvents. It will dissolve practically anything it touches, so avoiding damage to valuable things would rule it right out of consideration. I used to play with it long ago when they sold it in bottles as Tippex thinners, and I loved how it would turn anything plastic into sticky goo.

IPA works, but for effective use you can't just brush it on and rinse it off. Some kind of mechanical agitation is needed such as a stiff bristle brush or an ultrasonic bath. The idea is that the mechanical agitation loosens and frees removable dirt but leaves behind the fixed items like electronic components.

In short, trying to find stronger cleaning solvents is potentially heading in the wrong direction.

[ampdoctor]

oh jeeze, dont use MEK on any electronic components. Will it clean the parts? Yup...right out of existence!  Your best bet is to use deoxit as robrenz mentioned. For the amount you'll use it's really price effective. and it works like a charm. Just be mindful that when you use it on cheap ass "grease pots" and some sliders, you may need to follow up with some lube or you'll shorten the life of the pots.

[alanb]

I suppose I was hoping that someone would have a homebrew formula for a Deoxit substitute, I will have to purchase the real thing. From my searches so far the prices of the aerosol versions are very high and I haven't yet located the liquid.

Thanks Robrenz I have seen your praise of Deoxit in other threads on this forum and I don't doubt how good it is, the only problem is the price in the UK.

 

[robrenz]

oh jeeze, dont use MEK on any electronic components. Will it clean the parts? Yup...right out of existence!  Your best bet is to use deoxit as robrenz mentioned. For the amount you'll use it's really price effective. and it works like a charm. Just be mindful that when you use it on cheap ass "grease pots" and some sliders, you may need to follow up with some lube or you'll shorten the life of the pots.

Caig Fader lube is made just for this purpose. It is available in very small tubes. It works very well.

[nctnico]

A good cleaning agent for casings is 'simple green' (over here they sell it as 'StMarc paint cleaner'). Just look up the ingredients and you'll probably find something similar.

[BravoV]

Deoxit is worth the money. Don't buy spray bottles buy the liquid and use micro brushes or syringe with fine tip to apply.

Do you mean like those in the dispenser bottle like this one ? or others ?



There are two types which are 100% and 5% solution, which one are you suggesting ? If its 100%, do we need to dilute it ?

[Stonent]

AlanB, SeanB, IanB. Must be brothers 

BravoV was adopted.

[cprrw132]

My Home brew cleaner is 2 parts Methylated spirits 1 part acetone either in a recycled trigger action squitter bottle used for something caustic or in my latest assertion a re chargeable aerosol can with the aid of a used thooth brush when needed .
 For my SM- PSU repairs that are full of crud  I dunk them in a 30lt plastic tub  of Water + a mild detergent  w/- a blast of compressed air for about 20seconds Then through a rince tub of clean water  and hang them out to dry .
 Sure makes re capping theas little buggers a whole lot easier.
 JPT .
cprrw132
Illawarra nsw

[nanofrog]

Thanks Robrenz I have seen your praise of Deoxit in other threads on this forum and I don't doubt how good it is, the only problem is the price in the UK.

Not sure if the price will be any better, but you could look for Cramolin Contact Clean (same active chemistry & sold in the EU market). Only comes in 200ml or 400ml spray cans though FWIW.

http://www.itwcp.de/tl_files/downloads/cramolin/spezialsprays/CRAMOLIN%20PRODUKTUeBERSICHT%20GB.pdf

[robrenz]

I like the brush bottles like in my post here. 

[SeanB]

IPA doesn't appear to remove stubborn dirt very well. I use acetone for some jobs but I have done damage with it so I'm very cautious with it now.

Powerful solvents have a hard time distinguishing between dirt and things you want to keep. The 1,1,1-trichloroethane ("Tric") that you mentioned from days past is the solvent to beat all solvents. It will dissolve practically anything it touches, so avoiding damage to valuable things would rule it right out of consideration. I used to play with it long ago when they sold it in bottles as Tippex thinners, and I loved how it would turn anything plastic into sticky goo.

IPA works, but for effective use you can't just brush it on and rinse it off. Some kind of mechanical agitation is needed such as a stiff bristle brush or an ultrasonic bath. The idea is that the mechanical agitation loosens and frees removable dirt but leaves behind the fixed items like electronic components.

In short, trying to find stronger cleaning solvents is potentially heading in the wrong direction.

Like the R141B I was using yesterday to clean off some glue off a plastic case prior to sticking the bezel back on. It did a really good job, though the plastic came off as well with the glue. Only used 2ml on a cloth as well. Did degrease well though, if there was any mould release agent there it was in PPB values afterwards which was the reason the original adhesive held so poorly. The clear polystyrene cover though I cleaned with alcohol though, as it would have vanished with any other solvent.

[W8LV]

Are there any readily available chemicals that can be used for contact cleaning other than IPA? Many years ago I was able to use tricoethylene and carbon tetra chloride, both of which I understand have been banned from sale on health and safety grounds.

There are proprietary product available such as Detoxit but these appear to be very expensive. If there is no other choice I will have to settle for that.

Have you tried Brakleen?


Best Regards from W8LV in Pickaway County, Ohio, USA.

[bookaboo]

For cleaning PCBs I've found a small ultrasonic cleaner a great help. It gets in to all the tight corners that a toothbrush can't and saves a load of time if it's something you do regularly.
I assume it would also be good for cleaning contacts, the same units are used by jewelers.