Author Topic: Stuck on capacitance  (Read 9211 times)

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Offline davelectronicTopic starter

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Re: Stuck on capacitance
« Reply #50 on: October 21, 2020, 01:46:31 am »
Interesting ideas, i thought dimmers where not usable for inductive loads. Not the resistive types anyway. if i could have changed the wave form in the primarys (with out over heating the windings) I would have used a dimmer on the single primary winding. I have finished the pair of transformers in series, both primary and secondarys. I'm getting 20.70 Volts AC with no load, and 17.60 Volts with 200 watts of halogen lamp load, 4 x 50 watt lamps. The cable i used is advertised as being capable of currents up to 30 Amps at 12.00 Volts. I don't know it could handle that much current, but at 200 watts, i'm almost certain it can handle a bit more current. i'd say 18 Amps to 20 Amps with a 50% duty cycle wouldn't be unreasonable, although i'd expect to drop a bit more voltage form the secondary input due to the lower series primary input. But its looking good so far. I didn't do the stat's for a 200 x 100 x 20 mm piece of aluminium plate as a heatsink for 4 x TIP36C transistors. And the rectifier, i wasn't happy with the aluminium it was bolted to with the transformer chassis assembly. Hopefully with air flow it will keep things cool.
 

Offline davelectronicTopic starter

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Re: Stuck on capacitance
« Reply #51 on: October 21, 2020, 02:29:17 pm »
Thank you for all the help with this issue, hopefully I've accomplished a usable power source in the two MOT transformers. Just sharing a tip or two, I found silicone PTFE spray really helped max out the windings count. Also made a purpose tool (old screwdriver) rounded off and polished the tip (now bull nose for want of a better discription) pushed in the other side allowing the cable to follow this tool until I could pull it through, and creating more turns count. Another quick tip on checking voltage per turns count, a dress makers pin pushed through the insulation to check the voltage. The tiny hole closes up when the pin is withdrawn. You could just take a reading on voltage from the end your winding, but I felt volts drop over a length of unwound cable might not give an accurate result.
Thanks again for the help.  :)
« Last Edit: October 21, 2020, 02:32:02 pm by davelectronic »
 


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