D-Sub Punch Tool or Something

[Cigarsnob]

Howdy...At work, I have to add a d-sub (9 pin) to a Pomona project box from time to time. It's a bitch and time consuming to do this as I drill a large hole (multiple times) and then file the rest of it into the d-sub shape. Is there an easier (inexpensive) way of doing this? I found a d-sub punch tool, but it was over $200.

Do any of you guys regularly use d-sub connectors in project boxes and know of an easy way to make a d-sub hole?

 

[senso]

Crappy soldering iron, and melt away?
Nice solution would be cnc, sort of middle term, dremel, carbide burr(can eat plastic, alu, iron/steel and almost anything you can throw at it), and make a paper patern, in plastic it will be a 2 minute job.

[Cigarsnob]

Melting it away isn't possible as I'm using project boxes like this: http://www.pomonaelectronics.com/docs/popup.php?img=http://www.pomonaelectronics.com/images/large/2901.jpg

A cnc would be nice, but I don't think my job would go for one of those. A carbide burr seems like a good idea. I'll pick up a few of them and try them out. Thanks for the recommendation.

[deth502]

never done it, but my first thought for a cheap somewhat easy solution:

make a piece of steel in the shape you need, file to fit, drill the 2 side holes. harden this fixture. after this, just simply drill the 2 side holes (you can use the jig to locate them) then use those holes o locate the fixture and remove what is left inside the d-sub area. you can slam your drill bit in there, file to the edge, whatever, no need to be neat and precise, the hardened jig will stop you from making the hole too big. just get in there and hog it out.

[notsob]

DB9 hole punches are expensive,
example: http://www.l-com.com/d-sub-greenlee-punches-punch-holes-in-metal-boxes-or-panels

An alternative would to be to fix on a metal wall plate as a guide and cut out the hole
example http://zackelectronics.com/panels-plates-patch-bays/wall-plates/vga/steel-wall-plate-1-gang-1-hole-for-db9.html

[Paul Moir]

If you're doing it for work, consider farming it out.  Laser or water jet cutter guys should be able to do it for you.  Maybe I'm just lucky but there's two within a 5 minute drive that normally get it done within 24h.  Cost is very little compared to your time and you can get them to do the other holes as well for the same cost since it's mostly setup.
 
Otherwise get them to buy you a mill + accessories (which will cost about as much as the mill).   Doesn't have to be CNC for that sort of thing.

[Cigarsnob]

If you're doing it for work, consider farming it out.  Laser or water jet cutter guys should be able to do it for you.  Maybe I'm just lucky but there's two within a 5 minute drive that normally get it done within 24h.  Cost is very little compared to your time and you can get them to do the other holes as well for the same cost since it's mostly setup.
 
Otherwise get them to buy you a mill + accessories (which will cost about as much as the mill).   Doesn't have to be CNC for that sort of thing.

I doubt the boss would go for sourcing it out. A mill machine would be nice as we do quite a bit of work on metal from time to time. It just sucks that there's not a dirty easy and quick way of doing this.

[strangelovemd12]

My suggestion is to use a Dremel in conjunction with a jig.  For $60 at the hardware store you could make a table top setup that let you cut these things out in under a minute.

[Rory]

Over 20 years ago I bit the bullet and bought a set of D-sub punches and dies from Mouser, along with the press and a set of round and d- punches that they carried at the time. Made in UK, I don't remember the 'brand' but Mouser sold them under their own name. The whole set cost over 2K and I still use them to this day. For one-off prototypes in flat .032 aluminum they are perfect. Hard to use on cases but have used them on the lids of diecast Bud boxes many times. These are built to last a lifetime, and so far, they're doing pretty well. Have never used them on plastic. 

If you are strictly working with some kind of plastic prototyping boxes, consider making a steel template that you can use with a Dremel tool used as a router. Drill the two 1/8" nominal holes for the 4-40 jackscrews first, then mount the template with and run the Dremel cutter around the d-hole's perimeter. You can probably use a scrap of back panel from some metal-cased device that has the d-sub cutout as your template. If you're careful with your choice of cutter, technique and sufficiently harden the template so the cutter doesn't damage it in use, it should last you a long time.

[Cigarsnob]

My suggestion is to use a Dremel in conjunction with a jig.  For $60 at the hardware store you could make a table top setup that let you cut these things out in under a minute.

Yeah I was going to take Senso's idea and pick up a carbide burr and use that with a dremel. Hopefully that's quicker when using a template than using drill bits and filers like I have been doing.


Also, thanks everyone for all of the ideas.

[KerryW]

I have used a coping saw or a nibbling tool, but both are a PITA, and it's hard to make a neat hole.

If you have a drill press, you could get one of these:

http://www.harborfreight.com/5-rugged-cast-iron-drill-press-milling-vise-69159.html

Kerry

[strangelovemd12]

Not sure if this is what Rory was specifically talking about, but they are very nifty, and would probably save you some agro if you go the Dremel 'route':

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Dremel-Plunger-Router-Attachment-335-01/100609334

[G7PSK]

If its just plastic you could just make your own punch, you only need to make the inner punch and not the die for that you use a piece of hard rubber, this even works with metal.Making a punch out of mild steel only requires a saw and file.

[strangelovemd12]

And of course a press to use it, though a cheap arbor press would work fine.  I've run into issues when punching plastic with homemade gear, but if you can match the tooling with the plasticity of the project box it shouldn't be an issue.  This does seem like a more finicky approach though.  The upside is that experimentation is as easy as  filing the edges on an old connector, putting it face-down on the plastic under a block of wood and hitting it with a hammer.  It will teach you a surprising amount.

[nctnico]

Howdy...At work, I have to add a d-sub (9 pin) to a Pomona project box from time to time. It's a bitch and time consuming to do this as I drill a large hole (multiple times) and then file the rest of it into the d-sub shape. Is there an easier (inexpensive) way of doing this? I found a d-sub punch tool, but it was over $200.

Do any of you guys regularly use d-sub connectors in project boxes and know of an easy way to make a d-sub hole?

I bit the bullet and bought a punch. I use a mill for other connectors. Another option is to have front plates cut with a laser.

[Cigarsnob]

Howdy...At work, I have to add a d-sub (9 pin) to a Pomona project box from time to time. It's a bitch and time consuming to do this as I drill a large hole (multiple times) and then file the rest of it into the d-sub shape. Is there an easier (inexpensive) way of doing this? I found a d-sub punch tool, but it was over $200.

Do any of you guys regularly use d-sub connectors in project boxes and know of an easy way to make a d-sub hole?

I bit the bullet and bought a punch. I use a mill for other connectors. Another option is to have front plates cut with a laser.

Sadly I may do this as well...Talked with some guys at work about getting a carbide burr, but that may be too messy with all those shavings flying around. Found a punch from greenlee for $250 that we may end up getting.

[Rory]

Sadly I may do this as well...Talked with some guys at work about getting a carbide burr, but that may be too messy with all those shavings flying around. Found a punch from greenlee for $250 that we may end up getting.

A shop vac nozzle close to the bit will take care of any problem with shavings.

[GeoffS]

A punch is the easiest way to do this but as we've all found, not a cheap option.
ctm-inc have a good range of d-holes punches and a bit cheaper than Greenlees.

[deth502]

$50 cheaper

http://www.ctm-inc.com/html/d-subminiature.html

[Dave Turner]

I thought I'd already replied to this thread, maybe it was another similar thread though.

Look up Q-Max Cutters (they are punches), these are the one's I've used in the UK. However there are other brands it would all depend where you are. It's easy - pilot hole - assemble & align tool and a few turns of a hex key.

Yes they can be expensive, but it's all relative to time, numbers required and accuracy/presentation.