Electronics > Projects, Designs, and Technical Stuff
DC load using a CPU cooler
Joenuh:
@Microbug I live in The Netherlands. I used the tech support (emailadress), they were happy to forward me to the Europe section of IXYS. Today I got an email from a IXYS dealer.. Anyway you still got a couple :)
Jeroen3:
--- Quote from: Mr.B on October 14, 2014, 07:46:29 pm ---
--- Quote from: Jeroen3 on October 14, 2014, 10:09:17 am ---I was looking at the linearity of the Id/Vgs curve. It's not ideal if the fet goes from 0 to Imax in a window less than 1 Volts.
The IXTP or IXTH15N50L2 seems nice for this purpose, you have less risk of instability when you're running milliamps.
And it's affordable on digikey and an ebay seller.
I'll look into the ones named above tonight. (EU time)
--- End quote ---
Sorry Jeroen3, I dont quite follow you.
The graph for the IXTH30N50L2 looks to me to be about 3.5v for the 10A Ids range I want to run mine in.
Am I missing something here?
--- End quote ---
Precisely. With a "normal" switching optimized fet this isn't 3.5 Volts.
microbug:
I've just ordered the Arctic Cooling Freezer i30 CPU cooler for this project. It's the same as the previously planned A30, but it's for an Intel socket and is slightly cheaper.
Would it be best to solder the two TO-247s directly to the copper heat pipes (using low-temperature bismuth-tin solder)? Solder appears to be better than thermal epoxy, and if I had the two packages opposite ways up then the heat transfer would be about the same for each heat pipe.
mrflibble:
--- Quote from: microbug on October 16, 2014, 04:03:27 pm ---Would it be best to solder the two TO-247s directly to the copper heat pipes (using low-temperature bismuth-tin solder)?
--- End quote ---
No. What would be best is to not solder it. Best would be to use a thermal paste of your choosing. Then take measurements of thermal performance. Then remove paste, clean it up, and solder it. ;) Then measure thermal performance again, and compare findings.
microbug:
OK. I'll get on with the rest of the project, and do the thermal stuff last. That way, I can put exactly 300W (or whatever) into the cooler and measure its temperature.
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