Electronics > Projects, Designs, and Technical Stuff
DIY Focus Stacking for Macro Photography
Thomas:
Amazing images, mawyatt.
Clearly, this topic doesn't stop at an SLR with a macro lens and some software.
The rabbit hole is deeper than I thought. Way deeper :)
fcb:
Gorgeous images!! - any chance you can post these in high res so I can get one made into a poster for my lab wall. :)
Rerouter:
I feel I have missed it, but are there any free focus stacking programs anyone can recommend to give it a try?
mawyatt:
--- Quote from: Mechatrommer on July 02, 2020, 07:34:44 am ---
--- Quote from: 2N3055 on July 01, 2020, 10:23:03 pm ---Amazing!
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--- Quote from: c64 on July 02, 2020, 05:46:16 am ---These pictures look awesome. So sharp, look more like 3d models not photos.
Subscribe.
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his collection can be downloaded at nikonimagespace (100MB+) from his thread Some Older Chip Images this will not consist of the techy stuffs discussed here and on the photomacrography forum he linked alone. photo/color doctoring is one discipline in photography also required, used in movies everytime without muggles knowing it. i used to combine photos for HDR effect and then later add punch to the color. you dont get such color in real life... few random example attached... btw i downloaded his collection for my keeping and learning later, the folder name where i've put it tells something about its ranking..
--- Code: ---:\Knowledge\Digital Camera\Masterpiece\mawyatt (eevblog)
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not have a use for FOV bracketing yet, let alone the lens used by OP to get microscopic pictures of the silicons. but one trick to increase FOV is reduce lens aperture as much as you can (pinhole camera), since amount of ambient lighting will be much reduced, you'll need more powerful artificial lightings to help with colors painting where they need to be (photographer's rule to paint with lights). i can see some imperfection in the focus stitching, either its manually edited, or the stitch SW used is not so perfect yet. maybe manual editing and "space re-warping" in photoshop can give better result esp in exhibition or competition grade purpose. ymmv and fwiw..
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This works (reducing lens aperture) to increase the in-focus depth, but at the same time degrades the image quality due to diffraction blurring. Diffraction is the limiting factor in achieving good depth of focus and the effective aperture is usually kept below 20.
Regarding aperture, the Effective Aperture (EA) that affects the image quality, not the lens aperture your camera reports (unless it's a Nikon which reports Effective Aperture), follows Effective Aperture = Lens Aperture (1 + Magnification). So at 1X magnification the EA is 2 times the Lens Aperture. Most of the high quality microscope lenses, which have a fixed aperture, stay under 20 for this reason.
Best,
mawyatt:
--- Quote from: Hydron on July 02, 2020, 08:47:44 am ---
--- Quote from: mawyatt on July 01, 2020, 10:42:25 pm ---Some folks have 3D printed various adapters, holding fixtures and light fixtures, but I haven't seen anything like a focus rail.
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I didn't mean printing parts to use as a focus rail, but to use the printer itself as one! On my printer a full step on the Z axis is 40 microns, and it does 1/16th microstepping so you'll get a bit more resolution from that, albeit not as linear. The X and Y axes are significantly more coarse and are likely to have issues when throwing significant loads around (e.g. my early Canon non-USM 100mm macro lens plus a camera is fairly heavy), but if you attached a sample to the Z axis and moved it up by full step increments then in theory you can move it relative to a camera sitting on the bed pointing up at it. Control is a simple as sending G code commands with the Z move distance (there may be some jiggery pokery forcing it to move without a homing cycle first, but you could get around that by homing first then setting it up for photography).
This is obviously on the less extreme side compared to piezo stages etc, but I might test it in the 1-2x max macro range I can manage with the gear I have at hand.
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Ok I see what you are referencing now.
Pointing the exposed camera lens upwards is probably not a good idea, since things can fall onto the lens surface. If you could mount the camera/lens onto the Z axis stage facing downward like a normal setup that should work. Having a minimum 40um step in the Z axis will limit the magnification to less than 4X because of depth of focus. Most use setups which have under 5um minimum step size, many under 1um.
The piezo stages are an extreme case, where you are working at very high magnifications. The piezo stages mentioned have a total travel of less than 0.25mm, and step sizes of less than 0.01um!!
Best,
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