Author Topic: DIY Metcal 13.56 MHz RF Supply  (Read 353294 times)

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Offline richard.cs

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Re: DIY Metcal 13.56 MHz RF Supply - More impedance measurements
« Reply #225 on: June 13, 2013, 07:16:00 pm »
I took some more measurements, including over temperature (using my recently calibrated British standard cigarette lighter  ;D )

Firstly, so far as I can tell there are no matching components in the handpiece, it it looks a bit capacitive when unterminated and measures about an ohm end-to end. It's possible there might be a series L and/or shunt C but I suspect there isn't and I'm just seeing the cable. At d.c. the tip itself looks like a dead short as expected.

Measurements at 13.56 MHz

    R    X    Equiv X    SWR    S11
Cold:    42.3    +13j    153 nH    1.4    -16dB
Warm (but below Curie temp):    55    -16j    730pF    1.1    -23 dB
Hot (above Curie temp):    12    +24j    280 nH    5.1    -3.4 dB

There's a gradual sweep from cold to warm that passes through a near perfect 50 Ohms, then there's a quick transition at the Curie temperature to a low impedance with a lot of inductance. Notice that even at this point return loss is still better than -3dB - more than half the power is absorbed, this is the reason for the current source drive - constant voltage drive from 50 Ohms would only give a 50% reduction in power when hot, not enough.

A design is forming involving generating the RF from a high voltage variable bus, I could phase-angle control the rectifier but has anyone got any experience using the PFC chips for this?
 

Offline mamalalaTopic starter

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Re: DIY Metcal 13.56 MHz RF Supply
« Reply #226 on: June 17, 2013, 10:50:34 am »
Hi Richard,

thanks, that's quite interresting information.

I'm wondering if any of the many available coax sockets can fit on the cartridge. Then use a 3D-printer to make handpieces....

Greetings,

Chris
 

Offline zoltan

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Re: DIY Metcal 13.56 MHz RF Supply
« Reply #227 on: June 23, 2013, 08:09:55 am »
I'm wondering if any of the many available coax sockets can fit on the cartridge. Then use a 3D-printer to make handpieces....
Recently, I've got a "solar charger" from ebay (don't ask why). It came with a lot of different connectors, one of the barrel shaped fits nicely to the cartridge.
 

Offline laumingis

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Re: DIY Metcal 13.56 MHz RF Supply
« Reply #228 on: June 27, 2013, 06:35:49 pm »
Hi,

Finally I soldered everything up to oscillator and FET driver, but I get ISL55110IVZ heating up also, even with no load at all (R8/R9 desoldered). After ~30 second with 12V on, it is getting too hot to keep the finger on the chip. As one chip is dead already, I would like to ask if generated vaweforms look ok at all (oscillator output and FEt driver output).

For 12/5V supply I use TSR 1-24120 and TSR 1-2450 converters.
Soldering seems to be ok, with no shorts.


P.S.: this very nice project!

--
Laumingis
 

Offline mamalalaTopic starter

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Re: DIY Metcal 13.56 MHz RF Supply
« Reply #229 on: June 29, 2013, 03:00:48 pm »
Hmm, strange thing about the driver getting hot.

The waveforms look OK, however. I will check with my unit in the next days as i have time. So far i never noticed that it gets hot without any load.

Could check the two output channels simultanously? There are the 4.7 Ohms resistors R8 and R9. Desolder them and scope the two outputs to see if both are OK and in-phase (however, i doubt a problem there, otherwise you would not get that high of an output signal there anyways).

After all, that chip is not designed with a thermal pad and thus should be able to run "cool" without any load. But then, who knows...

Greetings,

Chris

P.S.: Zoltan, i have not forgotten about the toroids. I just had no time yet to look at it...
 

Offline zoltan

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Re: DIY Metcal 13.56 MHz RF Supply
« Reply #230 on: July 01, 2013, 03:13:24 pm »
Re driver chip:

I managed to kill three (3) pcs, but I have some clues that may (or not) help troubleshooting.

(1) +5V connected, +12V not, no input signal - no heat
(2) +5V connected, +12V connected, no input signal - no heat
(3) +5v connected, +12V not connected, input signal connected - no heat
(4) +5v connected, +12V connected, input signal connected - very fast heat buildup, in circa 15 seconds ready for barbeque

All (1-4) tests done with R8, R9 not populated, eg. driver output hanging in thin air.

Chris, do you have a part number for the capacitors used on the supply lines of the driver chip? I suspect mine (and laumingis's) are not of adequate quality for this application.

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Don't worry about toriods, I've run out of other parts to so I have to order new ones, but have to wait for salary. My biggest problem is the driver/heater now.
 

Offline laumingis

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Re: DIY Metcal 13.56 MHz RF Supply
« Reply #231 on: July 01, 2013, 06:00:25 pm »
Hi,

Done some measurement with osciloscope, without R8, R9 (they were not soldered in my first post also).
Power supply measurements are with only one driver input connected: then chip gets only slightly warm. I guess I'll proceed from here and try to connect FET to one output only.

--
Laumingis
 

Offline zoltan

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Re: DIY Metcal 13.56 MHz RF Supply
« Reply #232 on: July 01, 2013, 07:42:55 pm »
Hi,

Done some measurement with osciloscope, without R8, R9 (they were not soldered in my first post also).
Power supply measurements are with only one driver input connected: then chip gets only slightly warm. I guess I'll proceed from here and try to connect FET to one output only.
Hi Laumingis,

Try to add one more cap in parallel to C11 and one to C12. Then check the 12V line again (between the chip and the cap). That should smooth the supply and maybe resolve the heating problem. I suspect that the heating is due to "dirty" 12V.

br, Z
 

Offline mamalalaTopic starter

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Re: DIY Metcal 13.56 MHz RF Supply
« Reply #233 on: July 01, 2013, 09:59:55 pm »
Hi,

as for the caps, the parts that i use are from RS-Online:

100n, 50V, X7R, 0805         264-4416
4µ7, 25V, 1206            723-6679

Besides those, in the power supply section i have:

100µ, 50V, Electrolytic         758-1272
10µ, 50V, X7R, 1210         723-6824
150µ, 16V,             716-7100

I did a quick check on my unit today. The driver does not get hot, and that is in normal operation with HF output enabled. It gets mildly warm, that's all. I have a small dab of thermal paste between the chip and the PCB. But even on my initial prototype, where i had no such paste applied, it never got really hot. I will ask a friend of mine, who got one from me as well, how his unit behaves. I'm sorry that i can't give absolute temperatures, i simply don't have a suitable thermometer at hand...

Greetings,

Chris

Edit: please also keep in mind that all the units i built use the design with the switchmode regulators for the 5/12 volt rails.
 

Offline mamalalaTopic starter

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Re: DIY Metcal 13.56 MHz RF Supply
« Reply #234 on: July 01, 2013, 10:18:45 pm »
Hi,

Done some measurement with osciloscope, without R8, R9 (they were not soldered in my first post also).
Power supply measurements are with only one driver input connected: then chip gets only slightly warm. I guess I'll proceed from here and try to connect FET to one output only.

--
Laumingis

Hi Laumingis,

that there is some ripple should be expected. The roundabout 70mV are also what is expected from the specs given by the converter that you use. However, that you have ripple with twice the frequency that the unit operates is rather strange, i think.

Do you have a lab supply? If so, can you try and supply the unit with 5 and 12 volts from that? Right now i guess that something about the supply generation is somehow wrong. But then, it's only a wild guess...

I'm wondering what Paulo's experience is with the driver chip. He had trouble with blowing the FET, which was then solved after i sent him a set of torroids from my source here. But IIRC he never said anything about the driver chip.

Greetings,

Chris
 

Offline laumingis

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Re: DIY Metcal 13.56 MHz RF Supply
« Reply #235 on: July 20, 2013, 06:27:58 am »
Hi,

Finally I've got some time to work on this, and finally everything is working properly now! :)

I am not sure what helped with driver heating:
a) I added parallel capacitors to C10, C11, C12. It did smooth out power supply a little, but heating was still here
b) I added low esr electrolytic caps on 5 and 12 V rails, still heating
c) Used separate power supply, as 30V power supply was oscilating a little under load
d) Shortened wires from dc-dc converters to rf board
e) Did not use any thermal paste under the chip
f) Stopped measuring driver temperature with my fingers, which was probably the main issue. I have a feeling that it was the main problem, maybe driver picks some noise from my body and starts heating.

After I've "implemented" part f), i now use both channels on the driver again, it is ok. Also I went back to single power supply, just use one additional LC filter before dc-dc converters, just in case.
Now if i still touch driver with my fingertip, it feels like it is warm at best, and it is heating up instantly. I even bought a IR temperature thermometer for this, but, unfortunately, it has too wide measurement area to accurately measure this tiny chip (this laser diode in small distance is useless and misleading). Anyway, it does show some temperature increase, but nothing serious.


When I solved driver issue, I fried some FETs, of course. I was a little scarred at first, because I use the same XFMR core from RS as Paulinho had problems with. But it looks like FET was just overheating: after I added thermal paste under it, everything became ok.

So in the end I am very happy: finally I have a decent solder iron. To solder this board I used cheap unregulated one with 6 mm tip. It was my first smd work as well, and now I prefer it to through the hole type.

Thank you, Chris, a lot for this project, it is really great. Also thanks to Paulinho, who supplied PCB to me. And everyone else, who contributed to this.

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Happy and proud
Laumingis
 

Offline mamalalaTopic starter

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Re: DIY Metcal 13.56 MHz RF Supply
« Reply #236 on: August 30, 2013, 03:12:54 pm »
Hi all,

just to let you know, i got a metcal Talon tweezer a few days ago, and it works just fine with this supply. Now if i could just find a Metcal desolder gun for cheap to test ....

Greetings,

Chris
 

Offline ee.jmlp

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Re: DIY Metcal 13.56 MHz RF Supply
« Reply #237 on: September 26, 2013, 12:18:42 pm »
Hello,
Thank you very much mamalala (and others who participated) for freely sharing your work.
I'm going to embed the whole system in a single psoc and I'll use a full bridge rf inverter with filtered output to avoid "from no load to load" changes in the output.
A shunt resistor or a hall sensor to measure the current the output uses will tell me the power output. (If current is constant, then a voltage divider)

What do you think? Did you try anything similar?

« Last Edit: September 26, 2013, 10:58:08 pm by ee.jmlp »
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Offline ee.jmlp

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Re: DIY Metcal 13.56 MHz RF Supply
« Reply #238 on: September 26, 2013, 12:41:24 pm »
What do you think about this minimonster for the full bridge?

IRFB4212PBF
Look at the switching characteristics, rated for 15A and 10Vp in the gate :D
Less current and higher gate voltage (15v) would make it even faster.

When you talk about constant current, how much is that constant current? As Metcal talks about its constan current I need to know if it's fixed.
And Peak-to-Peak voltage at max load (heating up)? I hope the max power output depends on max voltage in the current regulator.

Thank you very much.
« Last Edit: September 26, 2013, 11:03:00 pm by ee.jmlp »
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Offline ee.jmlp

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Re: DIY Metcal 13.56 MHz RF Supply
« Reply #239 on: September 28, 2013, 11:48:01 am »
I have another question,
why didn't you use for L3 L4 and L5, 560nH 780nH and 250nH rf power inductors?
These are standard values. I used the Al constant * turns^2 in each core to calculate the equivalent inductance.

The RS code for the transformer is 467-4267

Thank you.
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Offline ee.jmlp

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Re: DIY Metcal 13.56 MHz RF Supply
« Reply #240 on: September 29, 2013, 12:50:03 am »
I've been Reading problems about power losses in the switcher. Why dont you use a good TVS?
A RC snubber could have resonation related problems (if it's not well calculated as in the 99% of the times).
On the other hand a good TVS will continue to dissipate the exceeding power in the other case the resistor, the transistor and the esr of the capacitor would dissipate.

For example SMAJ110A, the parasitic capcitance of the diode is nearly null for the application.

And the same goes to the output of the mosfet driver, a good tvs rated at 5V would help to cool down the driver in 0ohm resistor condition.
Basically I use TVS's to avoid reflections.

I saw another thing, in the toroids I saw no litz wire, the wire diameter you use is a waste for 13.56MHz due skin effect in the conductor and so the DC resistance is really higher tan you expected, lowering the overall efficiency.

But all is theory, sometimes real life is like science fiction :D
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Offline mamalalaTopic starter

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Re: DIY Metcal 13.56 MHz RF Supply
« Reply #241 on: September 29, 2013, 08:26:41 am »
I'm going to embed the whole system in a single psoc and I'll use a full bridge rf inverter with filtered output to avoid "from no load to load" changes in the output.

What "from no load to load" changes are you talking about?

A shunt resistor or a hall sensor to measure the current the output uses will tell me the power output. (If current is constant, then a voltage divider)

What do you think? Did you try anything similar?

I'm not convinced that it is necessary to use a full bridge in this application. Not only does it introduce more parts in the output driver stage that can fail, it also would require more power in the driver to drive the FET's (assuming you want FET's in the full bridge).

What do you think about this minimonster for the full bridge?

IRFB4212PBF

You did notice that this FET ist for digital audio amplifier applications, right? And you also notcied what they show in the datasheet for the gate charge and input/output capacitances? Also, during heatup the RF voltage is way over 100 volts, i doubt that a 100 volt FET is the best choice in such a bridge, if you want it to drive the tip cartridge more or less directly.

When you talk about constant current, how much is that constant current? As Metcal talks about its constan current I need to know if it's fixed.
And Peak-to-Peak voltage at max load (heating up)? I hope the max power output depends on max voltage in the current regulator.

I lack the tools to do any RF meassurements that go beyond looking at the output waveform on a scope. But generally i assume that "constant" somehow means "fixed", because otherwise it would be variable, right? But then i think that there is more to it than just constant current. This is RF, were we have to deal with stuff like impedance mismatch and thus reflections when the tip changes temperature, the latter being able to easily kill the RF final FET. But then, i'm not a RF wiz, so it is quite probable that i misunderstand a few things.

I have another question,
why didn't you use for L3 L4 and L5, 560nH 780nH and 250nH rf power inductors?

I thought about using ready made inductors. But they are much harder to get than standard toroids that are on the market for decades already, and thus have a really good availability. Plus, during development of the circuit it is much more useful and cheaper to simply rewind a toroid instead of buying lots of different fixed value inductors. Keep the DIY aspect of this in mind. It is important to use parts that have a rather good availability. Generic standard toroids and a bunch of magnet wire is far easier to get than some specific type and brand of fixed RF inductors. And most likely much cheaper too.

The RS code for the transformer is 467-4267

Thanks for proving my point about standard stuff. That part is no longer available at RS in Germany, for example. It says that they no longer have it in their product line. So it's just a matter of time until it is no longer available at other RS outlets as well, i guess. OTOH, the T-* and FT-* toroids are supposedly more standard (although there have been problems), and are on the market for a really long time by now.

I've been Reading problems about power losses in the switcher. Why dont you use a good TVS?

What power losses in the switcher? You mean the DC/DC converter? Or the RF final? The DC/DC is just fine, and normally so is the RF final once the right parts are used in the output filter stage.

A RC snubber could have resonation related problems (if it's not well calculated as in the 99% of the times).

Too bad that there is no RC snubber to be found anywhere in this circuit.

On the other hand a good TVS will continue to dissipate the exceeding power in the other case the resistor, the transistor and the esr of the capacitor would dissipate.

For example SMAJ110A, the parasitic capcitance of the diode is nearly null for the application.

So, in a constantly running RF circuit you propose to use a TVS that has a 0.01% duty cycle specified? The whole point of the circuit is to have a control loop that avoids generating excess RF power in the first place.

I saw another thing, in the toroids I saw no litz wire, the wire diameter you use is a waste for 13.56MHz due skin effect in the conductor and so the DC resistance is really higher tan you expected, lowering the overall efficiency.

You did read the thread, did you? You had a look inside an original Metcal unit, right? You looked at, lets say, 50 watts HAM radio's output stages, right? Are you saying they all do it wrong by using solid magnet wire? We are not talking about hundreds of watts or even kilowatts here. Plus, the inductors don't get that hot, so there seems to be no issue there at all.

Keep in mind that one goal of my circuit was to simplify things and to use parts that are relatively cheap, trying to avoid speciality stuff as much as possible. But of course you are welcome to design your own circuit in any way you like. After all, that's the whole point of DIY.

Greetings,

Chris
 

Offline ee.jmlp

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Re: DIY Metcal 13.56 MHz RF Supply
« Reply #242 on: September 29, 2013, 12:27:43 pm »

What "from no load to load" changes are you talking about?


I'm not convinced that it is necessary to use a full bridge in this application. Not only does it introduce more parts in the output driver stage that can fail, it also would require more power in the driver to drive the FET's (assuming you want FET's in the full bridge).

You did notice that this FET ist for digital audio amplifier applications, right? And you also notcied what they show in the datasheet for the gate charge and input/output capacitances? Also, during heatup the RF voltage is way over 100 volts, i doubt that a 100 volt FET is the best choice in such a bridge, if you want it to drive the tip cartridge more or less directly.


I lack the tools to do any RF meassurements that go beyond looking at the output waveform on a scope. But generally i assume that "constant" somehow means "fixed", because otherwise it would be variable, right? But then i think that there is more to it than just constant current. This is RF, were we have to deal with stuff like impedance mismatch and thus reflections when the tip changes temperature, the latter being able to easily kill the RF final FET. But then, i'm not a RF wiz, so it is quite probable that i misunderstand a few things.


I thought about using ready made inductors. But they are much harder to get than standard toroids that are on the market for decades already, and thus have a really good availability. Plus, during development of the circuit it is much more useful and cheaper to simply rewind a toroid instead of buying lots of different fixed value inductors. Keep the DIY aspect of this in mind. It is important to use parts that have a rather good availability. Generic standard toroids and a bunch of magnet wire is far easier to get than some specific type and brand of fixed RF inductors. And most likely much cheaper too.


Thanks for proving my point about standard stuff. That part is no longer available at RS in Germany, for example. It says that they no longer have it in their product line. So it's just a matter of time until it is no longer available at other RS outlets as well, i guess. OTOH, the T-* and FT-* toroids are supposedly more standard (although there have been problems), and are on the market for a really long time by now.


What power losses in the switcher? You mean the DC/DC converter? Or the RF final? The DC/DC is just fine, and normally so is the RF final once the right parts are used in the output filter stage.

Too bad that there is no RC snubber to be found anywhere in this circuit.

So, in a constantly running RF circuit you propose to use a TVS that has a 0.01% duty cycle specified? The whole point of the circuit is to have a control loop that avoids generating excess RF power in the first place.


You did read the thread, did you? You had a look inside an original Metcal unit, right? You looked at, lets say, 50 watts HAM radio's output stages, right? Are you saying they all do it wrong by using solid magnet wire? We are not talking about hundreds of watts or even kilowatts here. Plus, the inductors don't get that hot, so there seems to be no issue there at all.

Keep in mind that one goal of my circuit was to simplify things and to use parts that are relatively cheap, trying to avoid speciality stuff as much as possible. But of course you are welcome to design your own circuit in any way you like. After all, that's the whole point of DIY.

Greetings,

Chris
Thank you for your time, first of all "from load to no load" I meant when you take out the tip, in a constant current regulator the sudden change in an open circuit tends to overshoot the voltaje too much.

A H-bridge in rf is really complicated but once done it allows you control the current directly from the bridge, the shunt resistor with an integrator would show the current. Think the integrator must not to be so fast because of the thermal inertia of the tip but fast enough to not to burn the TVS is in antiparallel with the + and the - of the bridge.

Forgive that mosfet, other talked about another much better, the IRFB4019. Note that is a "digital" audio amplifier, that means it controls the current in the speakers by varying the dutty cycle in a switching frequency much higher tan the audio frequency. Faster times, better efficiency. The mosfet I talked about was for the same purpose but its worse talking about speed and gate charge. They are designed for hard switching and that means a TVS is necessary(or a rc snubber).

I agree with you about the toroids.

Power losses at the switcher I meant the IRF510. Someone talked about an rc snubber that's all. I've seen lots of rf stages dying because of a lack of a TVS.

The control loop controls the excess of the power but it has a time constant orders of magnitude higher than the response time of a TVS. TVSs only acts when the voltage goes over a value, see it as a hyperfast zener.

Yeah they are wrong by using solid magnet wire :D but it's not a significant problem, the current is not high. Litz wire can be made with thin enameled copper wire.
The heatup time would decrease with litz wire, and the efficiency would increase. If you have the time try it! enameled AWG40 is enough. I would like to compare theory with reality :D although skin effect is reality too.

Pleased.
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Offline ee.jmlp

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Re: DIY Metcal 13.56 MHz RF Supply
« Reply #243 on: September 29, 2013, 12:40:45 pm »
I did the worng way, I bought the fixed inductors instead of buying the toroids I can't find........................ hope I not to have much problems.
(sorry for the spelling)
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Offline mamalalaTopic starter

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Re: DIY Metcal 13.56 MHz RF Supply
« Reply #244 on: September 29, 2013, 01:14:39 pm »
Thank you for your time, first of all "from load to no load" I meant when you take out the tip, in a constant current regulator the sudden change in an open circuit tends to overshoot the voltaje too much.

That's a non-issue here, since there is circuitry to detect a faulty/missing tip which turns off the RF stage then. This is true for the original as well as my circuit, just that mine automatically restarts once the fault condition is gone. Plus, the maximum possible output voltage from the DC/DC to the output stage is limited in this circuitry.

Also, as i said i'm not that convinced that the basic principle for the regulation here is only about constant current. The peak detector picks up the RF voltage right before the last inductor. But the voltage at that point also varies depending on the reflected RF energy. You can see that if you drive the RF stage with, lets say, only 9 volts or so (to avoid blowing up the FET) without the control loop, then enable it and connect/disconnect a 50 ohm dummy load. If my half-broken digital scope didn't play silly tricks on me, then the voltage at that point rises when no dummy load is connected. This must be reflected RF, since in an open circuit very little current could flow...

A H-bridge in rf is really complicated but once done it allows you control the current directly from the bridge, the shunt resistor with an integrator would show the current. Think the integrator must not to be so fast because of the thermal inertia of the tip but fast enough to not to burn the TVS is in antiparallel with the + and the - of the bridge.

Well, it still is far more compicated compared to the simple method that is used now, namely a very simply RF generator plus filter stage, where the output power is controlled by the supply voltage to it. If i would redo the circuit, i would keep the basic principle the same, but then use a beefier output FET, like the IXYS IXFH12N50F (or comparable) tthat is used in the newer Metcal supplies. Question is just if the currently used driver chip has enough juice to drive it, or if a different driver would be needed.

Forgive that mosfet, other talked about another much better, the IRFB4019. Note that is a "digital" audio amplifier, that means it controls the current in the speakers by varying the dutty cycle in a switching frequency much higher tan the audio frequency. Faster times, better efficiency. The mosfet I talked about was for the same purpose but its worse talking about speed and gate charge. They are designed for hard switching and that means a TVS is necessary(or a rc snubber).

I know how digital amplifier stages work. But they don't use such a high frequency. Usually they operate in the upper 100s of kHz to very low MHz regions. Plus, they usually also need LC filtering to restore the actual AC waveform. Very crude ones use the inductance of the actual speaker as part of that filtering, though.

In the end you would still need good filtering after the full bridge, the only difference then would be the use of said bridge instead of a single FET and transformer.

I agree with you about the toroids.

Power losses at the switcher I meant the IRF510. Someone talked about an rc snubber that's all. I've seen lots of rf stages dying because of a lack of a TVS.

Well, RF power stages usually die because of too much reflected power due to a impedance mismatch. (EDIT: That is assuming that the finals are not driven beyond their rating even with a correct load impedance.) There are only two sensible ways, IMHO, to remedy that: either match the load impedance, thus reducing the amount of reflected RF (not possible in this application), or reduce the output power accordingly to protect the RF final (which is what is done here). Slapping some TVS diodes into the circuit just covers the symptoms but does nothing to correct the actual problem.

The control loop controls the excess of the power but it has a time constant orders of magnitude higher than the response time of a TVS. TVSs only acts when the voltage goes over a value, see it as a hyperfast zener.

Yes, TVS's are fast. But the actual regulation is not that slow either. It is definitely fast enough to protect the output stage quite well. Keep in mind that the transition is not infinitely quick. As the tip heats up there is a more or less gradual change over time, as you can see in the graphs that i posted in this thread.

Heck, the only instance where there would be a real sudden change is when the tip is removed during opertaion, due to the time constant in the tip-detection circuitry. But even that is short enough to protect the RF stage well enough.

Yeah they are wrong by using solid magnet wire :D but it's not a significant problem, the current is not high. Litz wire can be made with thin enameled copper wire.
The heatup time would decrease with litz wire, and the efficiency would increase. If you have the time try it! enameled AWG40 is enough. I would like to compare theory with reality :D although skin effect is reality too.

While i did not try litz wire in this circuit, i did play around with different supply voltages to the RF stage, which in turn also effectively pumps more or less power into the tip. There is a point after which it makes very little to no difference in the heatup/heat-recovery time. Again, the fact that the inductors don't produce excessive heat shows that the losses in them are not that big. And even then an argument can be made that the core losses contribute the majority to the heat production. Initally i used a smaller ferrite toroid for the transformer, which then got rather warm. Using a bigger one helped with that, while the wire was the same. So, again, these losses are definitely bigger in the core than the wire.

Maybe you want to contact the manufacturers of such HAM transmitters, as well as Metcal, and tell them they are wrong, or ask them why they used solid wire instead litz wire? Would be interresting to hear their take on the issue ;)

Greetings,

Chris
« Last Edit: September 29, 2013, 01:18:22 pm by mamalala »
 

Offline ee.jmlp

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Re: DIY Metcal 13.56 MHz RF Supply
« Reply #245 on: September 29, 2013, 02:01:59 pm »
They're simply wrong in terms of efficiency and performance, the only significant reason is money.

Litz wire is a must in todays high frequency, high power converters and switching devices, IEEE archives are flooded with that: theory, experiments, re-produced experiments, raw data and whatever you want. You only need to have privileges to access all of its content.

In the end, a constant current regulator would automatically adjust the output voltage in any load scenario and so regulating the reflected power. A TVS works beyond the regulator limits, only for hard switching spikes, not for the overall reflected power.

The response time of your regulator is greater than 4.5us, that means the mosfet eats more than 62 cycles of overvoltage conditions in the transition of the curie point.
A TVS here not only eats the switching spikes (you can't see them without a differential probe ), it will absorbs more than 4.5us of overvoltage conditions.

The response time of the TVS are few ps, no more than 100ps, enough. The control loop is necessary, tvs only improves security at the mosfet where the control loop does not respond.
Pleased.
« Last Edit: September 29, 2013, 07:34:33 pm by ee.jmlp »
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Yeah buddy!
 

Offline megajocke

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Re: DIY Metcal 13.56 MHz RF Supply
« Reply #246 on: October 03, 2013, 10:12:34 pm »
The individual strand diameter of litz wire needs to be small compared to the skin depth or else the proximity effect losses will be high. At 13 MHz the skin depth in copper is about 20 µm. AWG40 has an 80 µm diameter.

For example, a 100 strand AWG40 litz wire has a copper cross section of 0.5 mm2. If you use that you'll have a winding with effectively 10 layers and proximity effect losses will give you an Rac/Rdc of more than 100! (see the Dowell plot at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Proximity_effect_%28electromagnetism%29 for example) So your 100 strand litz wire will actually have higher resistance than even a single (40 AWG) strand of the same!  :o

A single layer winding made out of thick solid wire is more practical than litz wire at such frequencies.
 

Offline zoltan

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Re: DIY Metcal 13.56 MHz RF Supply
« Reply #247 on: October 04, 2013, 05:43:16 am »
Well, I don't know much about RF so I can comment what I've been told.
I've been told by a engineer who has built couple of high power (hundreds kilowatt range) transmitters for his former company ( http://www.riz.hr/en/transmitters.html ) that building coils for that level of power is a heavy plumber work. The coils are built from large diameter copper pipes.
I think that confirm megajoke's post about loses in litz wire.
 

Offline ee.jmlp

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Re: DIY Metcal 13.56 MHz RF Supply
« Reply #248 on: October 06, 2013, 09:04:40 pm »
The individual strand diameter of litz wire needs to be small compared to the skin depth or else the proximity effect losses will be high. At 13 MHz the skin depth in copper is about 20 µm. AWG40 has an 80 µm diameter.

For example, a 100 strand AWG40 litz wire has a copper cross section of 0.5 mm2. If you use that you'll have a winding with effectively 10 layers and proximity effect losses will give you an Rac/Rdc of more than 100! (see the Dowell plot at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Proximity_effect_%28electromagnetism%29 for example) So your 100 strand litz wire will actually have higher resistance than even a single (40 AWG) strand of the same!  :o

A single layer winding made out of thick solid wire is more practical than litz wire at such frequencies.

Nobody talked about a 100 strand of foolish nolitz wire. AWG40 was just a starting point because is easy to find, better if you find a litz one.

You can not add as many wires as you want, it's a compromise.
Read at the end of the paragraph "effects":

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Proximity_effect_%28electromagnetism%29

Large diameter copper pipes are far cheaper than litz and much better for cooling where the space is not a limiting factor...

As I said, it's a compromise, let's raise the bar a notch:
http://thayer.dartmouth.edu/inductor/papers/litzj.pdf

http://ieeexplore.ieee.org/xpl/login.jsp?tp=&arnumber=1407989&url=http%3A%2F%2Fieeexplore.ieee.org%2Fiel5%2F63%2F30533%2F01407989.pdf%3Farnumber%3D1407989

Well, that's all I'm going to talk about this matter :D

Pleased.
« Last Edit: October 06, 2013, 09:08:12 pm by ee.jmlp »
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Yeah buddy!
 

Offline megajocke

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Re: DIY Metcal 13.56 MHz RF Supply
« Reply #249 on: October 06, 2013, 09:57:41 pm »
Nobody talked about a 100 strand of foolish nolitz wire. AWG40 was just a starting point because is easy to find, better if you find a litz one.

Huh? You suggested using litz wire made out of AWG40 strands, and this was the configuration I was talking about.

According to the Dartmouth reference "Many manufacturers cannot provide litz wire using
strands finer than 48 or 50 AWG.". Even such thin strands (0.025 mm) will not be very effective at 10 MHz+ because you will need so many of them for any reasonable cross section and the proximity effect losses will be large.
 


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