Author Topic: DIY Metcal 13.56 MHz RF Supply  (Read 242668 times)

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Offline girolamo

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Re: DIY Metcal 13.56 MHz RF Supply
« Reply #400 on: September 01, 2015, 09:38:28 pm »
yes..only value of this resistors..i supose to be lower value.ten?..hundred ohms?
 

Online richard.cs

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Re: DIY Metcal 13.56 MHz RF Supply
« Reply #401 on: September 02, 2015, 07:05:12 am »
It's buried in post 184, I don't know if a build guide for the controller was ever written but if it is this should be in it. First of all setup the RF controller according to it's build guide (adjust R32 so the d.c. output buck converter is 22V while the RF output feeds a 50 Ohm dummy load. Then put a real tip in and make the adjustments described below. All voltages are measured at the output of the buck converter on the RF board, this is effectively the output mosfet drain voltage.

I've included the start of the post with component changes but if you are using recent documents those changes should already be in. I've highlighted the bit I think you need.

Hi all,

a few notes and status updates here.

First of all, i noticed somethig weird regarding the power output. Either the supply voltage radings found in the MX500 document are wrong, or my circuit is way more efficient/better-tuned. If i set the idle voltage to around 18 volts, i get some of the tips glowing dark-red around where the coil is! That means way too much power is pumped into the cartridge for too long. Setting the idle voltage to around 12.5 to 13.5 volts, which is way lower than what can be found in the document, makes everything work nice again. Of course this value is for small/medium sized tips. Larger tips idle at a slightly higher voltage (13.5 to 14.5 volts).

Anyways, during heatup (or boosted power at wakeup) a supply of around 21.5 volts goves a nice, fast heatup time.

I also made slight modifications to some part values. The reason is that i am currently very busy working on the firmware, and thus found out a few things. Here are the changes:

- On the RF board, use a 100 Ohms resistor for R11 (this one involves the µC-controlled power limit/boost function)

- Again on the RF board, change R8/R9 to 4.7 Ohms. Those are the gate resistors of the IRF510.

- Still on the RF board, change R33/R34 to 100 ohms each. This provides a lower impedance of the VCC/2 voltage for the OpAmp in the control-loop.

- The last change on the RF board is to use 22 Kilo-Ohms for R23 and 1 Kilo-Ohm for R24. These are also for the control-loop OpAmp, setting a higher gain.

- On the controller board, the variable resistor to set the boost power should be 1 Kilo-Ohms, that way a nice adjustment is possible. The one for the limited power is 10 Kilo-Ohms.

The maximum supply voltage as given by adjusting R32 on the RF board should be around 21.5 volts (no boost/limit active, purely the control loop). Regarding the idle voltage fo the tips, here is a rough overview for some tips:

Between 12.5 and 13.5 volts_

STTC-147
STTC-126
STTC-037
STTC-025

Between 13.5 and 14.5 volts:

STTC-011
SMTC-147

As for the limited and boosted voltages, it turns out that in limit-mode a voltage of around 10 volts, and in boost mode a voltage of around 18 volts give good results. For example, adjusting with a STTC-147 tip would be done the following way:

- Insert the cold tip. Power up in normal mode and monitor the voltage. Adjust R32 so that it never exceeds 21.5 volts. If it does, let the tip cool down again and repeat this step.

- Once the tip reached temperature, adjust an idle voltage of about 13.5 volts using R19. Let the tip cool down and repeat the previous step. If required repeat these two steps as often as required to rech these values. Should be very easily done, however.

- Let the tip sit idle at normal power, that is, no limit or boost enabled, for about 10 minutes. Re-adjust R19 to give an idle voltage of around 13.3 volts. Let it sit that way for 10 more minutes, and if needed make slight adjustments to R19 to bring it back to 13.3 volts.

- Enable the power-limited mode. This is done by pulling the controlling microcontroller-pin to GND. That pin goes though an 1N4148 diode, then the 1k adjustable resistor, into the VLIM adjustment pin on the RF board, where it ends up at R11. The diode is connected with the cathode to the microcontroller pin and the anode to the adjustable resistor. Now adjust that 1k trimpot to give a supply voltage reading of between 10.0 and 10.2 volts.

- Now enable the power-boosted mode. This uses the same microcontroller pin, but this time pulled high to +5 volts. This signal now goes through another 1N4148 diode, then through the 10k trimpot, and again ends up at the VLIM pin of the RF board. This diode is connected with the anode at the microcontroller pin and the cathode at the adjustable resistor. Now set that 10k trimpot so that you get a supply voltage reading of roundabout 18 volts. When done switch back to normal mode...

This concludes the adjustments required to the circuit, and it should now be fully operational.
The unit is now adjusted such that in normal mode the tip is kept hot and that load changes are quickly detectable. In normal mode the control loop will nicely adjust the supply voltage to keep the tip at the temperature. During limit-mode, which is very usefull to implement auto-sleep, any slight load change will cause a huge change in the available readings (forward-voltage, reflected-voltage, and subsequently the calculated SWR and power levels). Even pulling the handle out of the stand causes enough load change to give a huge delta-reading of the above values combined. Also, when waking up, the boost-mode now allows for a quicker recovery if needed.

I will explain how to use those values to detect changes, etc., in the next post later today explaining the firmware that i am working on.

Greetings,

Chris
 

Offline girolamo

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Re: DIY Metcal 13.56 MHz RF Supply
« Reply #402 on: September 03, 2015, 07:11:18 pm »
Thanks to all...now everysing is clear now,but for my sttc-126 ,idle voltage[ normal power]] i set it at around 8.7v.Tip is kyp all time clean.WhEN i pickup from stand ,voltage rise to 15,7 v, and recovery temperature quickly enough..
ut we have another problem.I bought MX-H1-AV that the part of his hand.It is very nice done but I don't know why his body is heating up strong enough In connector area inside.Taking out the tip, it is relatively cool!!that would be the reason? Also met someone this phenomenon?It is heatyng only alu part of pencil...To be a loophole rf and aluminum body is heated by induction in his turn?
 

Offline timofonic

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Re: DIY Metcal 13.56 MHz RF Supply
« Reply #403 on: September 12, 2015, 02:53:10 am »
Hi all,

just wanted to say, zayance sent me those PCB's and they look just great! Thanks very much for that, zayance!

If you plan to build one, go for it. Right now i'm rather busy with other stuff, plus i'm short on funny-money to spend on private projects right now, so the next version of the supply board will take some time.

Greetings,

Chris




Wait didn't you get the email i've sended with the files for it?
Meaning updated Schematic etc...

Basically it's exactlly the same latest board as mamalala only diff here is that there was a prob in the silk on the Generator side,
since i made one PCB to have both designs, Eagle pushed the Silkscreen numbers beside of just copy/pasting (logic and bummer).
I also moved the silk for some components here and there to make the assembly and it's visualisation easier, that's all.
So i made a Corrected BOM AND a corrected Schematic + Build doc according to the right Tname and values etc....
Something that i've sended to people who bought the boards, including you if my memory is not failing already??
Please let me know

I repeat, All the rest is the same :)

Best,

T.


Yea, all that stuff was left in that state while i was still experimenting with the performance of the unit. In the actual unit i have here, as well as the ones i gave away, i have (using zayance's part numbers):

R40 = 22k
R41 = 200R
R54 = 100R
R55 = 100R
R39 is not installed.

Sorry for the confusion.

Greetings,

Chris


1) In zayance's schematic there is, from transformer to output, 47nF x6 series, 22pF x2 shunt, 1uH series, 56pF x5 shunt, 1uH series, 56pF x3 shunt, 400nH series, 56pF x4 shunt. I've read various posts about missing out or fitting extra 56pF capacitors, is the above correct or should I add/remove some capacitors?
2) Is the firmware attached to post #204 the most recent available?
3) Have any binaries been posted or could someone send me one please? I will be using the PIC18F2620.
4) What's the optimum/min/max supply voltage? I've seen 24 mentioned as usable but low, and 26, 28 and 30V mentioned various times. I will probably build with a 50 Hz transformer but I'd like to pick the best secondary voltage.

Attached are three images from my rather dusty development unit that show how many caps i have installed. I did the same cap placement on subsequent units. Again, feel free to fiddle with that a bit, i went for "as much like a sine at the output as possible" plus "large Vpp output into a 50 ohms RF dummy load". Also again, it probably isn't perfect, and some room for improvement left in the filter section. Did you note the update to the coil winding scheme that happened later? Should be documented, if you can't find it i will make some pics of the current ones as well.

Also attached are two ZIP files, one containing only the compiled .cof and .hex files, the other contains the sources (the whole MPLab-X tree, in fact). The project compiles with Microchips C18 compiler.

About the voltage, 24 volts is enough to get it working well, i use an old 24V transformer from an old soldering station. Just don't go too high, the buck regulator can't take too much.

Greetings,

Chris




It's finished! Or very nearly anyway.

Since my last post I have modified the board with an undervoltage lockout circuit, mounted a boost converter module in the case for low-voltage d.c. input (10-30 V), and made up a small reverse polarity / overvoltage protection circuit for the new d.c. input, photos attached. Still to do is some input filtering on the DC lines, debugging the occasional odd behaviour seen previously and some general tidying up.

Edit: added schematics.


It's buried in post 184, I don't know if a build guide for the controller was ever written but if it is this should be in it. First of all setup the RF controller according to it's build guide (adjust R32 so the d.c. output buck converter is 22V while the RF output feeds a 50 Ohm dummy load. Then put a real tip in and make the adjustments described below. All voltages are measured at the output of the buck converter on the RF board, this is effectively the output mosfet drain voltage.

I've included the start of the post with component changes but if you are using recent documents those changes should already be in. I've highlighted the bit I think you need.

Hi all,

a few notes and status updates here.

First of all, i noticed somethig weird regarding the power output. Either the supply voltage radings found in the MX500 document are wrong, or my circuit is way more efficient/better-tuned. If i set the idle voltage to around 18 volts, i get some of the tips glowing dark-red around where the coil is! That means way too much power is pumped into the cartridge for too long. Setting the idle voltage to around 12.5 to 13.5 volts, which is way lower than what can be found in the document, makes everything work nice again. Of course this value is for small/medium sized tips. Larger tips idle at a slightly higher voltage (13.5 to 14.5 volts).

Anyways, during heatup (or boosted power at wakeup) a supply of around 21.5 volts goves a nice, fast heatup time.

I also made slight modifications to some part values. The reason is that i am currently very busy working on the firmware, and thus found out a few things. Here are the changes:

- On the RF board, use a 100 Ohms resistor for R11 (this one involves the µC-controlled power limit/boost function)

- Again on the RF board, change R8/R9 to 4.7 Ohms. Those are the gate resistors of the IRF510.

- Still on the RF board, change R33/R34 to 100 ohms each. This provides a lower impedance of the VCC/2 voltage for the OpAmp in the control-loop.

- The last change on the RF board is to use 22 Kilo-Ohms for R23 and 1 Kilo-Ohm for R24. These are also for the control-loop OpAmp, setting a higher gain.

- On the controller board, the variable resistor to set the boost power should be 1 Kilo-Ohms, that way a nice adjustment is possible. The one for the limited power is 10 Kilo-Ohms.

The maximum supply voltage as given by adjusting R32 on the RF board should be around 21.5 volts (no boost/limit active, purely the control loop). Regarding the idle voltage fo the tips, here is a rough overview for some tips:

Between 12.5 and 13.5 volts_

STTC-147
STTC-126
STTC-037
STTC-025

Between 13.5 and 14.5 volts:

STTC-011
SMTC-147

As for the limited and boosted voltages, it turns out that in limit-mode a voltage of around 10 volts, and in boost mode a voltage of around 18 volts give good results. For example, adjusting with a STTC-147 tip would be done the following way:

- Insert the cold tip. Power up in normal mode and monitor the voltage. Adjust R32 so that it never exceeds 21.5 volts. If it does, let the tip cool down again and repeat this step.

- Once the tip reached temperature, adjust an idle voltage of about 13.5 volts using R19. Let the tip cool down and repeat the previous step. If required repeat these two steps as often as required to rech these values. Should be very easily done, however.

- Let the tip sit idle at normal power, that is, no limit or boost enabled, for about 10 minutes. Re-adjust R19 to give an idle voltage of around 13.3 volts. Let it sit that way for 10 more minutes, and if needed make slight adjustments to R19 to bring it back to 13.3 volts.

- Enable the power-limited mode. This is done by pulling the controlling microcontroller-pin to GND. That pin goes though an 1N4148 diode, then the 1k adjustable resistor, into the VLIM adjustment pin on the RF board, where it ends up at R11. The diode is connected with the cathode to the microcontroller pin and the anode to the adjustable resistor. Now adjust that 1k trimpot to give a supply voltage reading of between 10.0 and 10.2 volts.

- Now enable the power-boosted mode. This uses the same microcontroller pin, but this time pulled high to +5 volts. This signal now goes through another 1N4148 diode, then through the 10k trimpot, and again ends up at the VLIM pin of the RF board. This diode is connected with the anode at the microcontroller pin and the cathode at the adjustable resistor. Now set that 10k trimpot so that you get a supply voltage reading of roundabout 18 volts. When done switch back to normal mode...

This concludes the adjustments required to the circuit, and it should now be fully operational.
The unit is now adjusted such that in normal mode the tip is kept hot and that load changes are quickly detectable. In normal mode the control loop will nicely adjust the supply voltage to keep the tip at the temperature. During limit-mode, which is very usefull to implement auto-sleep, any slight load change will cause a huge change in the available readings (forward-voltage, reflected-voltage, and subsequently the calculated SWR and power levels). Even pulling the handle out of the stand causes enough load change to give a huge delta-reading of the above values combined. Also, when waking up, the boost-mode now allows for a quicker recovery if needed.

I will explain how to use those values to detect changes, etc., in the next post later today explaining the firmware that i am working on.

Greetings,

Chris

Any way to get the latest schematics and PCB files? I want to make them in KiCad too.


I got crazy trying to understand this. The information is too disperse and the topics are too much difficult for a noob like me. I just want to build a cool soldering station :D

Any updates? Can someone do a summary and put an the updated information into one post? Please!

Thanks in advance!
« Last Edit: September 12, 2015, 03:15:39 am by Circuiteromalaguito »
 

Offline danringer

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Re: DIY Metcal 13.56 MHz RF Supply
« Reply #404 on: October 04, 2015, 08:05:58 pm »
are any pcbs still available?
 

Offline girolamo

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Re: DIY Metcal 13.56 MHz RF Supply
« Reply #405 on: October 07, 2015, 09:26:46 am »
Yes ,ihave a pair of them!
 

Offline [PTM]

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Re: DIY Metcal 13.56 MHz RF Supply
« Reply #406 on: October 16, 2015, 02:30:11 pm »
hi there!
Where is i can found latest files?
 

Offline Rinatka7

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Re: DIY Metcal 13.56 MHz RF Supply
« Reply #407 on: October 18, 2015, 08:34:04 am »
Hello.
I need your help!
I have broken metcal mx-h1-av handpiece, while i disassemble it i broke one legs in inductor.
Here it is photo of this inductor.
By color of lines seems that it is 11uH, but in another post - https://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/broken-metcal-rfg-30-soldering-base-unit-fixed/msg438916/#msg438916 Anders said that it is 22uH.
Where is a true?
Thank you very much.
Could you please give to me a link to shop where i can buy this inductor.
 

Offline hww

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Re: DIY Metcal 13.56 MHz RF Supply
« Reply #408 on: December 04, 2015, 07:49:20 pm »
For now only two folks interested, and 8 PCB's left.

Anyone else?

Is it still possible to order the PCBs?  :) I wish to get it  ::)
« Last Edit: December 04, 2015, 08:06:31 pm by hww »
 

Offline timofonic

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Re: DIY Metcal 13.56 MHz RF Supply
« Reply #409 on: December 04, 2015, 09:49:55 pm »
For now only two folks interested, and 8 PCB's left.

Anyone else?

Is it still possible to order the PCBs?  :) I wish to get it  ::)
I would love to have the original design in some file format...
 

Offline mikeselectricstuff

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Re: DIY Metcal 13.56 MHz RF Supply
« Reply #410 on: December 11, 2015, 02:37:09 pm »
Just doing some tidying up - have come across the V0.2 bare PCB from mamalala and a bag containing quite a few of the parts.
I doubt I'll ever get round to doing anything with them so will post free to anyone in the UK that wants them.

If no takers in UK for a couple of days I'll send overseas for GBP5 via paypal to cover postage costs.
Youtube channel:Taking wierd stuff apart. Very apart.
Mike's Electric Stuff: High voltage, vintage electronics etc.
Day Job: Mostly LEDs
 

Offline timofonic

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Re: DIY Metcal 13.56 MHz RF Supply
« Reply #411 on: December 12, 2015, 01:47:09 pm »
Just doing some tidying up - have come across the V0.2 bare PCB from mamalala and a bag containing quite a few of the parts.
I doubt I'll ever get round to doing anything with them so will post free to anyone in the UK that wants them.

If no takers in UK for a couple of days I'll send overseas for GBP5 via paypal to cover postage costs.
Why so much praying to PBS? Can someone publish a comprehensive message in the first part work a summary and crowdsourcing schematics and layout for at least kicad and Eagle?
 

Offline Neganur

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Re: DIY Metcal 13.56 MHz RF Supply
« Reply #412 on: December 18, 2015, 05:19:39 pm »
Why so much praying to PBS? Can someone publish a comprehensive message in the first part work a summary and crowdsourcing schematics and layout for at least kicad and Eagle?

The what?
 

Offline hurtmanissimo

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is topic dead?
« Reply #413 on: February 17, 2016, 10:26:24 am »
hi! little bit to slowpoke, but i`m find this perfect diy project :)

built it, and in result - have some questions.

the main questions is:

controller board does not swithch off rf_en then tip removed. the buck converter switch permanently when switch on by button and switch off by button.

it has no reaction on remove tip, but message - NO TIP is displayed correctly (circuit works), and sense installed tip.

this burn me some more fet`s :)

in code power_manager.c  i find a place, which must to handle it, but i think there is something miss. i`m not expert in c programming :(

Code: [Select]
cur_tip = tip_detect_get_status();
       
        if(cur_tip != old_tip)
        {
            if(old_tip == TIP_MISSING)
            {
                power_manager_init_state();
                infodisplay_reset();
                if(power_manager_get_state() == PM_OFF)
                {
                    power_manager_set_state(PM_HEATUP);
                }
                else if(power_manager_get_state() == PM_MANUAL_OFF)
                {
                    power_manager_set_state(PM_MANUAL_NORMAL);
                }
            }
        old_tip = cur_tip;
        }

anyone use/fix or made further development of original firmware? 

will try to add an else statement , which must execute instead of setting work states then tip not present

like

Code: [Select]
if(power_manager_get_state() != PM_OFF)
    {
        logger_print_params();

        cur_tip = tip_detect_get_status();
       
        if(cur_tip != old_tip)
        {
            if(old_tip == TIP_MISSING)
            {
                power_manager_init_state();
                infodisplay_reset();
                if(power_manager_get_state() == PM_OFF)
                {
                    power_manager_set_state(PM_HEATUP);
                }
                else if(power_manager_get_state() == PM_MANUAL_OFF)
                {
                    power_manager_set_state(PM_MANUAL_NORMAL);
                }
            }
            else
                rf_manager_set_mode(RF_POWER_OFF);
                old_tip = cur_tip;
        }
    }


thanks :)
 


Offline hurtmanissimo

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Re: DIY Metcal 13.56 MHz RF Supply
« Reply #415 on: February 18, 2016, 05:59:52 am »
yesterday try some code, and add switch rf part then there is no tip. tested, and it works fine disabling RF then tip removed, and enable then inserted back :)

then need some fix to not display any status messages like  HEATED, HEATING  in case of removed tip.

Code: [Select]
void tip_detect_process(void)
{
//      if(RFG_EN)
        if(power_manager_get_state() != PM_OFF)
        {
        if(TIP_DET == 0)
        {
            tip_status = TIP_MISSING;
            RFG_EN = 0;
        }
        else
        {
            tip_status = TIP_OK;
        }
        }
}

 

Offline Cerebus

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Re: DIY Metcal 13.56 MHz RF Supply
« Reply #416 on: February 22, 2016, 12:17:13 am »
Guys i dont understood ,where is the stuff ?
source code and schematics ??
loool im here around 5 minutes and still don't found the stuff about this thread talking
 :palm:

So it's not just me then. I've skimmed through the whole thread a couple of times and I can't get a handle on what's considered the best, latest and greatest version.

Would someone who has followed the history of the thread please be kind enough to post a summary of the state of affairs with pointers to where the current schematics etc. can be found?

Thanks,
Ian
Anybody got a syringe I can use to squeeze the magic smoke back into this?
 

Offline Monkeh

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Re: DIY Metcal 13.56 MHz RF Supply
« Reply #417 on: February 22, 2016, 12:43:20 am »
loool im here around 5 minutes and still don't found the stuff about this thread talking
 :palm:

Oh no! Five whole minutes! No instant gratification, total failure!

If your attention span is that short, this project is really not for you.
 

Offline timofonic

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Re: DIY Metcal 13.56 MHz RF Supply
« Reply #418 on: February 23, 2016, 04:34:34 pm »
Quote from: Wolfram.Chrome on February 22, 2016, 07:34:58 AM
Guys i dont understood ,where is the stuff ?
source code and schematics ??
loool im here around 5 minutes and still don't found the stuff about this thread talking
 :palm:

It seems only gurus are able to decode this. I'm a newbie and get totally crazy trying to understand it, it's totally spread over tons of forum posts and such.

Anyone willing to explain this for us the poor dummies? Please! :)

Quote from: Monkeh on February 22, 2016, 11:43:20 AMQuote from: Wolfram.Chrome on February 22, 2016, 07:34:58 AM
loool im here around 5 minutes and still don't found the stuff about this thread talking
 :palm:

Oh no! Five whole minutes! No instant gratification, total failure!

If your attention span is that short, this project is really not for you.


Nice. This is another guru only project. It's okay! Get fun and look better than losers like me ;)
 
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Offline mmagin

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Re: DIY Metcal 13.56 MHz RF Supply
« Reply #419 on: February 23, 2016, 11:35:25 pm »
loool im here around 5 minutes and still don't found the stuff about this thread talking
 :palm:

Oh no! Five whole minutes! No instant gratification, total failure!

If your attention span is that short, this project is really not for you.

I read the whole thread and I cannot find a complete schematic anywhere, even an outdated version.
Also I'm a bit confused why this needs a microcontroller.  The usual Metcal bases just supply a fixed RF output (with varying sorts of protection depending on the age of the design -- the early ones like I have I've been sternly warned to not operate unloaded.)

On a tangent, does anyone know how the impedance of the tip varies with temperature?   It cannot be constant with the varying loading, but I'm curious how much it actually varies.  And, is that base to cord connector totally proprietary?
 

Offline Monkeh

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Re: DIY Metcal 13.56 MHz RF Supply
« Reply #420 on: February 23, 2016, 11:58:23 pm »
And, is that base to cord connector totally proprietary?

You mean the bog standard F connector?
 

Offline mmagin

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Re: DIY Metcal 13.56 MHz RF Supply
« Reply #421 on: February 24, 2016, 01:04:15 am »
And, is that base to cord connector totally proprietary?

You mean the bog standard F connector?

Huh.  Is it because mine looks weird due to the early version that has a locking ring that I never noticed that?  I'm going to have to look more carefully when I get home.
 

Offline mmagin

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Re: DIY Metcal 13.56 MHz RF Supply
« Reply #422 on: March 04, 2016, 08:56:58 pm »
And, is that base to cord connector totally proprietary?

You mean the bog standard F connector?

Huh.  Is it because mine looks weird due to the early version that has a locking ring that I never noticed that?  I'm going to have to look more carefully when I get home.

Yeah, I guess it is an F connector.  Hardly matters much at 13.56 Mhz if it's a 50 or 75 ohm connector probably.
 

Offline hurtmanissimo

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  • Country: ru
Re: DIY Metcal 13.56 MHz RF Supply
« Reply #423 on: March 21, 2016, 06:52:57 am »
Got talon tweezers with tact503.  It heat-up, but not to work temperature (curie point not reached) , so power consumption stay high - 2.8a from 28v supply.

Trying to set bigger voltage by r32, it not make any visible diffs.  During heatup voltage on L2 slowly rise to 25v.

Wait for larger sink, now - on 90x90x15 it heat up very quickly on that load. Even with additional blower it wont drop to normal mode. Staying in heatup mode (around 55-60% bar).

Think about rewind xformer from 0.7wire to 0.8 - not sure it will do anything, but i`m try it ;)  Working with desolder gun , and other tips - fine. Fast heatup to working temperature, then idle..

 

Offline hurtmanissimo

  • Contributor
  • Posts: 6
  • Country: ru
Re: DIY Metcal 13.56 MHz RF Supply
« Reply #424 on: March 28, 2016, 01:39:48 pm »
Have borrow from friend dso, and take some measuring with 50omh dummy.

dunno why there too large vpp, and waveform have little different from posted here by topicstarter mamalala.

any ideas about possible cause?
 


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