The VCC of the 12V battery is shown as shorted to GND in the schematic.
This will of course result in one or more tracks turning into small balls of flying molten copper.
If you remove the short to GND it still will not work as desired.
The two series resistors are wrong and will result in the analogue input of the D1 Mini seeing the actual battery voltage, a nominal 12V.
The input of the analogue pin should be configured with a voltage divider. Calculating that divider should be very easy. I don’t know the analogue range of a D1 Mini, haven’t looked it up.
The output of the TP4056 seems to be 5V. The output of the HT7333 is 3.3V.
I don’t know how tolerant the HT7333 is of being back fed with 5V, but I would suggest it is not at all recommended.
The supply voltage of the D1 Mini appears to be 3.3V, so the TP4056 supply of 5V will not be healthy for the D1 Mini.
A 1000uF capacitor on the VBUS input to the HT7333 will have a massive inrush current that the USB supply is unlikely to handle very well.
To make the power supply electrically work you need to cut the connection between VBUS on the USB and the VIN of the regulator (HT7333).
Then, connect the output + of the TP4056 to the VIN of the regulator, not the VOUT.
Change the 1000uF cap to a much smaller value, or nothing at all depending on the output filtering of the TP4056.
I am pretty sure these little modules (TP4056) can charge and supply at the same time, but I may be wrong.
That should satisfy the electrical requirements of the regulator and the D1 mini, however the life of your 18650 battery is going to be terrible due to the TP4056 running all the time to boost the 3.7V up to 5V.
There are considerably better ways to do this.
When I get home I will try to find a design I did that is very similar using an ESP8266 as the MCU…