I realise it's a bit of an imposition to spring such a "left field" question 'out of the blue' on you like this...
Not at all, it's all good. Not that I can be of much help with the matter unfortunately.
One of the few decent investments I made some years ago was a Weller soldering station (the basic analogue temperature control one) and a couple of irons; a WSP80 for general soldering and a WMP65 micro pencil for the fine pitch stuff. I might make a different choice now, but at the time there wasn't as much choice and the Weller does the job perfectly well. It just takes up a bit too much of my very limited desk space.
The bigger WSP80 gets far more use, especially now I've discovered drag soldering. A bit late to the party perhaps, but I'm glad I got there. I persevered for ages with a 0.1mm tip on the micro pencil, soldering 0.5mm pitch ICs a pin at a time under the microscope.
The one bit of advice I would give, given that most interesting things now are SMD, is to get an iron that you can buy a gull wing tip for. They go by other names too and have a concave dish in the tip which holds a tiny blob of solder. I watched a few videos on drag soldering, then gave it a go on some 28 pin TSSOPs. The videos made it look ridiculously easy, and to my amazement it actually was. The flux was critical; I got a bottle of RA flux from Farnell along with the tip. It works much better than my flux pen for this purpose:
https://uk.farnell.com/mg-chemicals/835-100ml/rosin-soldering-flux-bottle-125ml/dp/2903909
I must admit that ublox module was a pain to solder. Making the rest of the board went like a charm (even the 0603 parts that were small enough to carelessly inhale) but that module just sucked the heat right out of the iron before it could make a joint. By the end of it I had turned up the heat to about 330C, iirc, with the WSP80 and was just managing to get good joints made without feeling I was going to overcook it or leave a cold joint. That was before I got that bottle of good flux though, which I think would have made quite a difference in getting the copper to wet. Still, it survived.
Should you change your mind about giving it a go, give me a shout about those spare PCBs.
I've not had chance to do anything with the GPSDO today, other than plot and scheme. As much as I like the (relative) simplicity of a PLL, my original idea was to use an MCU controller. I need one for sync'ing my derived PPS anyway. Using basic frequency locking control of the OCXO on an MCU though isn't conducive to keeping that DPPS where it should be. It drifts, slowly but surely.
It's much easier to use phase locking on the OCXO than to try to keep the DPPS sync'd without it. So... I'm considering doing the phase locking in the MCU, either with a capacitor and ADC or one of those TI chips mentioned earlier in the thread... implementing what I now know is known as a TIC. Along with learning how to use the dsPIC for actual digital signal processing. I could even try pressing the CTMU (essentially a built-in TIC) on the dsPIC to the task, but it seems so unstable I don't know if it's worth the effort.
...and then I wonder if it's all worth the extra effort when I can already get the OCXO more accurate and stable than I'll likely ever need. But that's not the point, I guess.
It's good to have choices 
Apologies for the delayed response, I spent the next three days since then researching cost effective soldering stations before placing an order for the KSGER T12 Soldering Station clone of the Hakko with Banggood the night before starting a ten day cruise holiday, returning on the 18th and it's taken me almost three days to catch up with my iplayer downloads and conversion to the more efficient H.264 storage format which reduces the "Never mind the quality, feel the width" profligate transport stream format used by the iPlayer servers down to just under half size with absolutely no discernible impact on video quality. It took two and a half days worth of processing for Handbrake to complete this task and It's only now, after sorting out ebay issues that I've finally been able to start checking out the eevblog threads I've been participating in.
As a result, I've not had any time to apply myself to the GPSDO project and now I'm having to familiarise myself with the various features of the T12 clone soldering station, notably, calibrating the ten soldering iron tips I'd also purchased to complement the single supplied starter T12-K tip that came with the soldering station. Incidentally, that gullwing tip you described doesn't fit any of the ten T12 tips in my collection but I've no doubt that one or more of the dozens of available tip types in the T12 range will match this requirement.
I have to say, I'm very impressed with this KSGER T12 unit even though I've yet to use it in anger and that's despite the necessary fettling of the poor assembly and soldering of the T12-9501 handle and some minor fettling of the PSU/Controller box which I had anticipated from the various tear down and review Youtube videos I'd watched. Lucky for me that I already had a modest collection of Antex soldering irons to hand.

I'd specifically chosen the Banggood unit for its T12-9501 handle (and the inclusion of a K type tip to make this a complete starter kit - most other offerings didn't include a soldering tip offering the inferior colletted type handle which counter-productively extends the effective iron tip to finger grip distance).
Although the T12-9501 handle might look like a cheap plastic handle, it's actually superior in many ways, being both lightweight with speedy pushfit tip changing and the provision of more precise control courtesy of the shortened finger gripping point to soldering tip distance. Anyone thinking of getting one of these soldering stations would do well to choose the "plasticy" T12-9501 handle over any of the other more flashy metal handles being offered.
I paid just fivepence over 39 quid for this kit but by the time I'd included a soldering iron stand, a wire wool tip cleaner and a set of ten T12 tips, not forgetting a thermocouple soldering iron thermometer, I'd racked up a total order value of some 76 quid. Still, it was well worth shelling out for these 'extras'.

BTW, that bottle of RA flux you linked to on Farnel's site costs three quarters the price of the KSGER soldering station which seems eye wateringly expensive to me. Just how long does a 125mL bottle of this magic RA flux last for?

Thanks for the recommendation and all but I think I'll look for a more economic way to flux my solder joints if you don't mind my saying so (I've still got plenty of sticks of Beeswax left over if I need to flux large areas of circuit board

-OJ ).
I might be able to acquire some of this magic flux at a more favourable price point at my new favourite online shopping site, Banggood - I just haven't looked... I have now and there's a bewildering array of soldering flux related items, none of which relate to RA flux. I guess I'll have to do a google or duckduckgo search to try and track down a cheaper source.
Never mind, I can always experiment with the unused fluxes I'd bought at last April's radioham rally which I'd simply bought to satisfy an urge to buy anything remotely related to electronics whilst I had the, now sadly rare, privilege of doing a face to face deal with a seller and, of course, I've still got a stock of multicore solder which doesn't normally require a separate application of flux anyway.
Once I've finished calibrating my soldering iron tips (more like pencils really) and fine tuned the rather comprehensive settings of the KSGER soldering station, I'll be able to turn my attention back to the job of assembling a complete, if basic, GPSDO and put my 76 quid investment in soldering kit to full and productive use.
I'm now looking forward to a more relaxing soldering session now I don't have to weigh up whether to switch an Antex iron off to avoid premature wear from overheating or leave it on to be ready for the next set of solder joints minutes to hours later.
I've got it set to idle at 100 deg C after a 5 minute idle time and run up to 280 or 300 deg C (I haven't decided the optimimum temperature setting for the 60/40 rosin cored solder I'm using) within ten seconds of disturbing the 'shake' sensor in the handle. This "direct drive" soldering technology with its tight PID temperature control is a vast improvement over the soldering experience with the basic Antex soldering irons I've been using off and on over the past thirty odd years or so and I'm rather looking forward to using it.
There may be superior soldering station kit out there but for hobbyist use, this KSGER unit seems to offer the best bang for the buck and Hakko soldering tip compatibility to boot. I rather doubt I could justify the expense of a genuine Hakko soldering station or any of their competitor's offerings so I'll just have to 'jolly well make do' with this cheap clone for the time being.

JBG