Electronics > Projects, Designs, and Technical Stuff
High efficiency DIY buck converter
mariush:
If you're 3D printing the case, maybe you could make a sort of hybrid case?
For example, maybe look for a rectangular copper or aluminum piece that would be a part of the case walls, then you have your 3d printed case made of two parts with the metal ring sandwitched between the plastic case
Then you could further drill some very fine holes in the aluminum or copper for ventilation or natural convection or you make some striations on the metal (cut some lines in the metal) to increase the surface area.
If not the side walls, maybe have the bottom as a copper/aluminum sheet?
drummerdimitri:
I will include slots for natural convection at the sides of the case but definitely will not be including a fan as it is not a quiet solution.
How far can I relocate the transistors from the main PCB and what wire gauge should I use?
KaneTW:
A low RPM fan will be basically inaudible and increase heat transfer by _a lot_. http://www.crydom.com/en/tech/hs_wp_fa.pdf for some ballpark math.
floobydust:
I'm happy using the Ali/eBay boards from QSKJ like QS-1205CBUM-8A.
Most use TPS40057 synchronous rectification and two or three external mosfets of varying spec. The DPAK are better rated than the laptop MSOP mosfets.
Surprisingly, the inductor gets hot and limits power output so they recommend using a fan above 6A or so. Many reviews of these boards out there.
For cold temperatures, I swap in solid polymer caps.
schmitt trigger:
In addition About the fan: it doesn’t need to run continuously. Only when the components exceed a certain preset temperature.
Which may be only reached if you are pulling a full load continuously, and/or have a high ambient temperature.
We are only presenting you the options. But in the end only you know your budget, the performance criteria and the environmental restrictions.
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