Ha, funny you ask.
When i am hacking together electronics projects in the garage my usual plan of attack is to separate the project into modules and then buy each module on ebay. For example, the last project was a wireless 3 phase hydraulic pump for a man sized bottle jack - Sourced all the bits from work, buy the 3 phase inverter, the 24vac power supply module, lowering valve, the 2channel car fob wireless relay module, the contactor, and then buy a few enclosures and wire everything together. Minimal 'design' work required, and doable cheaply using cheap 'industrial lego' boards mentality.
This project initially came about trying to drive a Mahle 03F145725G wastegate actuator to replace the boost control solenoid on my Mazda Mx5, using my microsquirt ecu. (i appreciate this will mean more to some than others!) Ive got a 0-12v configuarable output to play with, and a 5 wire box of tricks to connect it to (2 wire brushed motor, 3 wire hall sensor). Looking on ebay, nothing. "Well, ill build one then!"
Then a few friends have announced their interest in this little box of tricks, (for various other uses)... "Well sod it ill build a handful of them then"
Everyone's recommendations have been really helpful, thank you. Ive attached a picture of what i think is a finished schematic. Well, it is finished, for now, as i've put an order in for 3 at oshpark so its as finished as it gets for now until i manage to break them all in prototyping/testing/ect.
F1 is a 5a (? 7.5a?) micro blade fuse. This is obviously for overcurrent protection, and will also blow in reverse polarity situation thanks to the freewheel diodes in the TLE5206. Both the setpoint and feedback inputs have resistors and zeners as an overvoltage/overcurrent protection and the capacitor is there to act as a snubber/low pass filter (values to be tuned as reqd)
I think this means that any wiring combination error on P1 is protected for, and the samecan be said for P2 thanks to the setpoint filtering circuitry, the generous output protection of the motor driver, and using D1 and R5 to keep voltages higher than 5v of the 5v rail. Overcurrent on 5v is handled thanks to the vreg and this also has undervoltage lockout should p1 v fall too low.
I'll be honest, and it has probably become apparent by now, but maths is not my strong point so little actual engineering has gone into this but i think (barring any other blatant oversights) this is good enough to start testing. Should i need/decide to swap the zeners for TVS's i shall and as above i suspect exact component values will need tuning, but i will probably get there with experimentation (not that this means i am deaf to further/past advice, my ears are always open!)I also had a pin left to use on the mcu so wired that to an error LED - Not certain yet on strategies to use this but im sure something will happen. Oh, and i think ill leave the icsp pads unpopulated on the finished ones of these things i sell. You never know
I believe that, short of connecting this thing up to AC mains or an ign HT lead, i think what i have in there so far is 'enough'.
Now would probably be a good time to learn how to code.
EDIT: Attach the friggin picture