Might be just for regulation and applied standards reasons.
Lighting is a different kind of equipment than e.g. a general purpose power brick, so it's tested and declared conforming to different standards.
I bet the load device (whether it's actual LED lighting or something else that can cope with the provided output) can't read that fine print and will just work 
Yeah, I think you are just right on that too. Reading this page really clarified things. Most all LED light strips or multi-light LED system us CV drivers. One poster above said it might be because ripple and some other undesirable artifact is present becasue it is a 'dirty' supply, but LEDs don't care about ripple (maybe). Constant Voltage is the LED standard.
https://www.ledsupply.com/blog/constant-current-led-drivers-vs-constant-voltage-led-drivers/
Incidentally, my SONY laptop power supply (made by Light-on) says CC/CV on it so I guess it can do both. That makes me wonder if laptops need both? IF so, we know for sure one reason that power supply says for "LEDs only."
CV/CC power supplies can be thought of as either maximum condition being met. So for a maximum of 24V and 2.5A, it will attempt to push 2.5A through the load, up to a maximum output voltage of 24V, or it puts out 24V up to a maximum load of 2.5A, after which the output voltage reduces to keep the current at 2.5A.
This would describe supplies designed for lighting, however I don't see why a laptop charger would function that way. CV power supplies generally have a hiccup mode when the max output current is exceeded. They don't gradually reduce voltage, it cuts out completely for a second or two then reattempts power.
I also wouldn't overlook the noise and ripple. LED installations involve long lengths of wire, which in conjunction with the power supplies inherent conducted interference can contribute to a noisy environment. In the past that has given me problems with magnetic pickups and noise on my scopes
You can always get a quality CV driver then use a second step down CC module to run LEDs. That's a more flexible way to implement dimming. I usually buy Meanwell drivers from the usual electronic parts suppliers. There's nothing particularly special about Meanwell, but they have a large range of voltages, power levels, form factors, CC/CV supplies etc generally at a decent price.
Also, avoid PWM dimming methods for controlling lights. They produce the most interference.