Building a compact (full) ATX case

[Renate]

The title says it all, looking for a case for an ATX motherboard as compact as possible.
The closest I've found is a "dual chamber", but even that they make bigger than necessary.
https://www.newegg.com/black-cooler-master-haf-series-atx-desktop/p/N82E16811119265

Everything has tempered glass or LED whirly fans or styling by Klingons.
All I want is a black metal box that two of the dimensions roughly match the two dimensions of an ATX motherboard.
Yes, this means that the PSU and the one external 5.25 (ok, or two, if we use that for convenience connections) go on the bottom.
Despite having 7 slots, I only need my one graphics card and that could go on a riser.

I was thinking of just buying a "test bench" and I could make the rest out of aluminum.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/WTX-ATX-ITX-MATX-PC-Aluminum-Case-Test-Bench-Open-PSU-IO-Backplane-Graphics-Card/274067042000

Any ideas?

[Renate]

Yes, the Fractal Design stuff is one of the least offensive but that case is not full-size ATX.
My current situation: https://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/pc-upgrade-sort-of/

[Twoflower]

Are you sure that's a full size ATX? ATX comes in many sizes: ATX-Variants.  What's the model number of the board?

[RenThraysk]

https://www.sfftime.com/product-page/p-atx-black ?

9L volume, no 5.25s though.

[Renate]

Are you sure that's a full size ATX?

It's 12 × 9.6 in (305 × 244 mm), 7 slot.

9L volume, no 5.25s though.

Also it requires an SFX power supply and it's on the end, extending the length.

Cases with low volume can still be bulky.
I'm just looking for something that two of the dimensions are defined by the motherboard.
That would mean 12" plus a bit by 9.6" plus a few inches for cables and stuff.
The height would be the height of an expansion card (in the top direction) plus the height of an atx power supply (in the bottom direction).
That would yield a compact unit and still have tons of space on the bottom for whatever.

[Twoflower]

How about that one: https://www.fractal-design.com/products/cases/define/define-c/black/

399 x 210 x 440 mm

[themadhippy]

slightly bigger than the the fractal at  471mm x 200mm x 430mm,but  cheaper. https://www.corsair.com/uk/en/Categories/Products/Cases/Carbide-Series%E2%84%A2-100R-Silent-Edition-Mid-Tower-Case/p/CC-9011077-WW .No windows or silly leds, its got 2 inbuilt fans but there almost silent.just a plain black box thats quieter than a quiet thing on a quiet night .

[Renate]

Just a plain black box thats quieter than a quiet thing on a quiet night .

Sounds nice. (But that one's too big.)

I've given up, I'll have to make my own.
I'm going for square in two dimensions, that is 13.25" (336.5 mm).
I'll get four sheets of 1/16" aluminum for the sides, the posts are out of 5/8 x 5/8 x1/8 aluminum.
The middle plate that holds the MB gives it some structural integrity.
The top and bottom sides I'll deal with somehow.
I'm looking at maybe 5" (127 mm) on the bottom and about 4" (100 mm) on the top.

Edit: You know, if I switch to an old style ATX with the fan on the intake (instead of a big one on the outflow) I can chop an inch off the bottom dimension and improve the flow.

One morally bankrupt idea that I'm giving up is the idea of L brackets on extension boards.
This whole inset stuff to make L brackets work is just stupid.
I'll just whack the brackets flat so that they can be mounted flat with the outside enclosure.

[mikerj]

https://www.riotoro.com/products/cr1088-atx-mini-tower-case

Very compact, though only a single 5.25 inch bay.

[Renate]

Very compact, though only a single 5.25 inch bay.

Hmm, small, but ugly.
I just pointed out to them that they had the dimensions backwards on one diagram.

I thought before I saw the link that you were saying my design had only one 5.25 bay.
Of course, the left hand side has room for two stacked.
For symmetry/utility I'm thinking of adding two 5.25 bays on the right hand side.
These would only be the cheesy accessory ones that are an inch or two deep.

[Renate]

Progress report.
It's kind of Frankensteinian with all the rivets.
I'm still deciding if this is the final product or just a prototype to order some bent/drilled panels.

The aluminum I'm using is what I can find locally, 0.025" (0.635 mm)
It's pretty wimpy stuff, but still a bit of work to cut with hand shears when you cut deep and have to push one side up and the other side down to clear the shears
Still, you throw a bunch of 1/2"x1/2"x1/16" (12.7x12.7x1.2 mm) angle aluminum and lots of rivets it's pretty sturdy.
I've finished the main bits except for the back panel.
I'll be running the video card vertically for a few weeks until I get the PCIe x16 right angle riser.
Then I can figure the cutout for the horizontal video card.

The dimensions are 13.25"x13.25"x7.0" (336x336x178 mm).
That makes it 20 liter volume.

(The mini ATX is only for reference, this is getting a full ATX.)

[jc101]

Might be a little late, but something like this?

https://www.silverstonetek.com/product.php?area=en&pid=760

Or any kind of "server" style case be of any use?

[Renate]

Something like this?

Well, that's actually rack mount size, over 4" wider and deeper than my design for a savings of 1/2" in height.

[NiHaoMike]

Might it be easier to get a 2U server case that supports a right angle riser and cut away the drive bays to make it smaller? Also, if you need an optical drive, you can opt for a laptop drive or an external drive.

[Renate]

Might it be easier...

Nah. This is working out fine. Besides, any "server" starts you out with a 17.5" for a 19" rack mount (unless it's a 24" rack).
Also, my application calls for heat out the top, more efficient than heat out the back which is what all dense servers must do.

[Renate]

A bit of progress.
I've transferred to the new case.
I'm still waiting for the right angle PCIE adapter. (It's in the country now, just not in my hands.)
I can't finish the back panel until then.
I have a 120 mm fan for the top front left corner, it will mount on the top cover.
I like the pushbuttons, https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/e-switch/PV6F240SS-331/EG4731-ND/2116210

[Nominal Animal]

Darnit, missed this thread somehow. 

I've always started with the back plane from an existing chassis, as they usually have the threaded standoffs or threaded holes for those already at correct locations, and often you can reuse the foil panel also (around the back connectors).

If you have any curved or odd-shaped holes to cut, use a sheet metal nibbler.  (I've had to hand-file the outer edges of my el-cheapo hand nibbler, to avoid marring aluminium surfaces with dark lines.  Taping the sheet with plastic adhesive can help also.)  For holes, a step drill is indispensable.

My next enclosure will have the MB well centered, so that the back connectors are about 8cm recessed into the enclosure, with a two-part soft foam barrier as "lips" around the recess.  It'll help with better airflow control (since I want it to be powerful but silent), and I think having the wires poke out between two foam barriers looks nicer too.

[Renate]

Yeah, I used to have a nibbler but at some point it broke and I never got another one.
Starting from scratch is not bad. I did the layout in CAD, printed it and used it for the board standoff holes.
I only have one expansion board.
One of the worst design decisions on the ATX was to have "L" brackets on expansion boards.
If you do that then you have to have a step in the case.
I've already flattened the bracket for my video board, it will mount flush with the back panel with a screw on either end.
I haven't decided whether I will paint this black as originally planned.

[Renate]

I finally spent the day and did the rear panel.
I still have to do the cutout for the horizontal video board.
Fortunately one of the six View Ports peeks over the top when the board is vertical (not shown).

[Nominal Animal]

How difficult was it to get the foil panel rectangular hole placed exactly right?

[Renate]

How difficult was it to get the foil panel rectangular hole placed exactly right?

It was pretty easy.
The MB was already mounted, I figured out roughly where the hole would be.
I cut it out just enough to clear all the connectors.
Then I placed the back cover in position temporarily and laid the connector panel over that (on the outside).
I lined it up so that each connector was centered exactly in its own hole, then outlined it with a Sharpie (fine marker).
I then offset those lines 0.1" inside and filed it flat. (Actually, just measured 1.75" centered between the two lines.)
I feel that this worked out a lot better than trying to measure things.

[Renate]

I'll just add that I hate those stupid screws.
You know the ones that I mean, those plastic threading screws with small heads that they use on fans.
If you want/need to use normal machine screws (in imperial) 8-32 is the size of the hole, but the normal flat/oval head at 0.306" is too big for the countersink.
Does anyone know a source for machine screws with tiny head size (without dropping down to 6-32 or 4-40 or something).

[Nominal Animal]

You know the ones that I mean, those plastic threading screws with small heads that they use on fans.

No as I use rubber stakes and rubber grommets for fans and housing wherever I can, and other than the two imperial standard chassis screw sizes, metric screws (because they're all I can get locally.) I don't even know the exact imperial sizes, as I just had a habit of buying them in replacement sets when found a good set on sale, and keeping the extra ones after building a machine, and now have enough probably for two or three enclosures...)

(Also, I still have a few, uhm, "experimental" fan mods around.  One of them has all the flanges cut off, so I could glue it to a cylindrical hole in a foam block.  Turns out the foam I had was idunnowhatplastic, smelling awful when trying to cut with a hot wire, and dulled my scalpels faster than anything else.  Meaning, I'm fond of modifying parts that don't seem to fit well, until they either fit well, or I need a new part.)

[Renate]

Let's all get horizontal! (and no silly L tail).

[Renate]

Well, all done.
The left front 120 mm bezel/filter is a fan, the other is the CPU stack.

Of course if I had had a complete concept when I first started it would have turned out better, but, hey.
I had considered making this just a prototype, but it's good enough for my taste.
If I had had access to a sheet metal shear and brake (and thicker aluminum) I could have made this much better and not have to use angle for every joint.
I do love the concept of the layout but I would knock 1/2" off the height and an inch or two off the depth.