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| I fried my SSR........ HELP!!! |
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| jwilson:
--- Quote from: floobydust on January 25, 2020, 07:49:14 pm ---I drew a circuit and realized you may have wired the heating elements wrong. How many ohms are they each, or as a quad? Originally they have might been wired in pairs, as 120V elements each? This could overcurrent the SSR. I have a few issues with safety, the galvanized enclosure and kiln must both be grounded. Why are you using cheapola PVC speaker wire when this enclosure sure looks like it gets very hot. The indicator lamps have high temp wire so I'm worried the whole thing will melt. Can you touch the heating elements (when the kiln is cold) ? Usually this is the case, when putting stuff in or out of the kiln. Using SSR's (instead of a contactor) there can be an electrocution hazard due to the SSR's leakage current putting stray voltage at the heating elements, despite the SSR's being off. You'll need to measure ACV at the heater when the controller is off, to make sure. --- End quote --- For the elements, they are 8 ohms. Here's a link to the elements https://www.paragonweb.com/ELA82.cfm I changed out the speaker wire........ I now realize that was a horrible idea. I'm using 16 ga primary wire to run power from the SSR to the PID. I haven't tried to touch the elements when they are live. Due to my mistakes, I can't now until I wire it up properly. I wish I could pay one of you guys to come over and help me wire this thing up!!!!! I'm in Fayetteville, AR. Anyone close???? ;D |
| jwilson:
--- Quote from: floobydust on January 25, 2020, 07:49:14 pm ---I drew a circuit and realized you may have wired the heating elements wrong. How many ohms are they each, or as a quad? Originally they have might been wired in pairs, as 120V elements each? This could overcurrent the SSR. I have a few issues with safety, the galvanized enclosure and kiln must both be grounded. Why are you using cheapola PVC speaker wire when this enclosure sure looks like it gets very hot. The indicator lamps have high temp wire so I'm worried the whole thing will melt. Can you touch the heating elements (when the kiln is cold) ? Usually this is the case, when putting stuff in or out of the kiln. Using SSR's (instead of a contactor) there can be an electrocution hazard due to the SSR's leakage current putting stray voltage at the heating elements, despite the SSR's being off. You'll need to measure ACV at the heater when the controller is off, to make sure. --- End quote --- FLOOBYDUST, I can't thank you enough for the schematic!!!! I have a new SSR coming tomorrow and I'm going to leave well enough alone until I get it and then wire according to your schematic. Thank you so much! |
| jwilson:
--- Quote from: floobydust on January 25, 2020, 07:49:14 pm ---I drew a circuit and realized you may have wired the heating elements wrong. How many ohms are they each, or as a quad? Originally they have might been wired in pairs, as 120V elements each? This could overcurrent the SSR. I have a few issues with safety, the galvanized enclosure and kiln must both be grounded. Why are you using cheapola PVC speaker wire when this enclosure sure looks like it gets very hot. The indicator lamps have high temp wire so I'm worried the whole thing will melt. Can you touch the heating elements (when the kiln is cold) ? Usually this is the case, when putting stuff in or out of the kiln. Using SSR's (instead of a contactor) there can be an electrocution hazard due to the SSR's leakage current putting stray voltage at the heating elements, despite the SSR's being off. You'll need to measure ACV at the heater when the controller is off, to make sure. --- End quote --- One more question, your schematic includes everything I need, but how about the AC lines going to terminals 9 and 10? Here the PID I'm using: https://www.auberins.com/images/Manual/SYL-2352P%20Manual.pdf Thanks again. |
| floobydust:
WAIT - that's a schematic based on your picture, what you wired up. Not how it should be- I'd have to think about it. The heaters surely aren't all in parallel! Groan. Inkbird 40A SSR reviews are pretty funny on Amazon. They seem to smoke and melt. "Got two of these in succession, both caught fire filling the air with acrid smoke! First one, than the second one a few months later as well. Too late for Amazon refund." "Melted on first use, despite heat sink. Unable to brew beer until I get it replaced, this is the second 40A Inkbird SSR to go bad on me, 0 for 2." "This SSR should have been over powered for the setup I put it into but it failed about 15 minutes after being turned on. The system was drawing 6.3 amps @ 238v when it popped and failed. The 10 amp inline fuse didn’t have a chance to protect this 40 amp switch..." |
| jwilson:
--- Quote from: floobydust on January 25, 2020, 08:26:00 pm ---WAIT - that's a schematic based on your picture, what you wired up. Not how it should be- I'd have to think about it. The heaters surely aren't all in parallel! Groan. Inkbird 40A SSR reviews are pretty funny on Amazon. They seem to smoke and melt. "Got two of these in succession, both caught fire filling the air with acrid smoke! First one, than the second one a few months later as well. Too late for Amazon refund." "Melted on first use, despite heat sink. Unable to brew beer until I get it replaced, this is the second 40A Inkbird SSR to go bad on me, 0 for 2." "This SSR should have been over powered for the setup I put it into but it failed about 15 minutes after being turned on. The system was drawing 6.3 amps @ 238v when it popped and failed. The 10 amp inline fuse didn’t have a chance to protect this 40 amp switch..." --- End quote --- DOH.... I thought your schematic was how it SHOULD be wired up. Definitely time to invest in better SSR's......... How should the elements be wired? There are four in total, with 2 leads on each. I am attaching a pic of what the element arrangement looks like. I can't thank you enough for all your help!!! I owe you lots and lots of beers!!! |
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