Typical is a long ( 300mm long) aluminium channel heatsink, with a potted section on the one side, containing the 3 parallel TIP145 devices, the associated emitter ballast resistors, the small PCB with the 14V 1W zener diode on it, the thermal cutout ( 70C clixon one), the tiny driver transistor for the 3 pass devices, the reverse polarity protection diodes ( one input, one output and one across the regulator for reverse connection) and some 10uF 50v ceramic capacitors input and output for noise absorbtion, all on a small PCB. Put the 1R 25W metal clad resistor on the heatsink as well, and then put a 40V 5W transorb after the resistor, to handle the load dump voltage surges. Output also put a 20v transorb, for the same reasons, you can buy the 20V device only and stack 2 for the input side, higher power and single part inventory.
You can make the PCB single sided and long, so all the components aside from the thermal cutout are mounted on it, and then use the transistor mounting kit screws to hold it in place. Put the 2 input wires, the 2 output wires and then pot is a soft silicone potting for protection.
Thees are quite common as truck radio adaptors, and designing for 5A output and then using at 1A will be a lot better than hoping the 1A design will survive 5A long period. You have to pot them, as they are going to be exposed to some pretty crappy environments in use, and put some strain relief holes and a tiewrap on input and output sides, along with putting in a provision for an inline 10A fuse for them, in a sealed automotive blade fuse holder.
Bonus points for putting in a relay for switching, that will accept input of 12 to 24V as a turn on signal.