Author Topic: 3D printed PCB Vice (Read 7171 times)

hagster · « **on:** August 23, 2015, 04:08:47 pm »

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:980482

I like using small low profile vice to hold my PCBs and connectors when soldering. However I find that most are a pain to adjust to different sizes. My solution was to use elastic bands to provide the required holding force. With this it's a 2 second job to pull open and hold whatever item I need. Obviously being plastic it's liable to melt if holding something really hot. My advise would be to print it in ABS or even Nylon or other higher temperature thermoplastic if possible. If it does get damaged it is reversible, so you can just move the elastic bands and use the other side of the vice. I also designed a cable clamp attachment, but I haven't printed this yet so can't confirm that it works.

Hope it's useful. Comments here or on thingiverse.

Regards,
Hagster

Kintekobo · « **Reply #1 on:** August 23, 2015, 06:16:21 pm »

Hi Hagster that looks like a really useful piece of kit. Just one problem for me in that my maximum printer bed size is 150mm. I haven't had much luck in scaling other peoples designs before so is there any way you can suggest how to reduce the width to 150mm?
Thanks,
Chris

hagster · « **Reply #2 on:** August 23, 2015, 07:54:17 pm »

I think your right, simply scaling it probably won't work very well.

I will try and do a smaller version when I get the chance. It will loose a bit in terms of the maximum PCB size. The current max is 77mm. It will probably drop to about 62mm if I have my sums right.

Can your printer print all the way to the edge? You might have to turn off the paremeter loop if it does this by default.

Kintekobo · « **Reply #3 on:** August 23, 2015, 08:17:13 pm »

Thanks for that. I've never tried printing right to the edge, but there's always a first time

I think you might get quite a few interested in one at 150x150 as that seems to be a common size for quite a few 3D printers.

TheElectricChicken · « **Reply #4 on:** August 23, 2015, 08:59:47 pm »

Here, I do a fast modification to the long legs, maybe this is useful description of what you are after Kintekobo ?

I think the cable thingo is only 8 cm, the big bit is I think just a touch under 150 now, but can you check please?

Error: Your file is too large. The maximum attachment size allowed is 1000 KB.

the zip is 1.7 MB, any suggestion where I can put it without site registering headaches ?

Mechatrommer · « **Reply #5 on:** August 24, 2015, 04:03:26 am »

Quote from: Kintekobo on August 23, 2015, 06:16:21 pm

Hi Hagster that looks like a really useful piece of kit. Just one problem for me in that my maximum printer bed size is 150mm. I haven't had much luck in scaling other peoples designs before so is there any way you can suggest how to reduce the width to 150mm?
Thanks,
Chris

although i'm not hagster, but maybe usefull to others... most of the shapes are straight line/shaft/bar. for straight shape, you simply use ready made steel/aluminum shaft/bar. for example the v-shape holder, you can use L-shape aluminum bar in place. the only thing difficult to get ready made is the holder/joint that hold them together. usually these joints are small parts thats suitable to be customed design in 3d software and then 3d printed. this way, not just you can print and materialize it, but you can make a rig as big as your heart content desire to the max joints size that your 3d printer can print...

TheElectricChicken · « **Reply #6 on:** August 24, 2015, 10:40:15 am »

I am curious about some of the parts, I can see places where springs or elastics attach, but what are the small indentations for, cone shaped holes, marked with red arrows here. how do you use them ?

ElektroQuark · « **Reply #7 on:** August 24, 2015, 11:48:11 am »

It seems difficult to print. Too much little details.

hagster · « **Reply #8 on:** August 24, 2015, 05:29:20 pm »

The holes are for the cable clamp attachment. It's very experimental and I have no idea if it's really useful or not. The idea is that it can hold the back of a cable in place while you solder it to a connector for instance.

I had no problem printing it on a very shacky and badly setup printer. It shouldn't be a problem for most people.

krivx · « **Reply #9 on:** August 24, 2015, 05:59:02 pm »

This is presumably for soldering use, will it actually hold up? I wouldn't want my vise to melt all over my PCBs...

hagster · « **Reply #10 on:** August 24, 2015, 06:28:24 pm »

My general advise would be to not print it in PLA. ABS or Nylon or PET or XT are probably better. Polycarbonate would be best, but I gather it's hard to use.

For most PCB work the edges shouldn't get too hot.

The great thing is that if it does melt you can just move the elastic bands to the other side while you print a replacement.

For those that want a more robust solution the Hackaday Stickvice that Dave got in his mailbag looks really cool.

BTW I will get round to making a smaller version. Sometime this week with luck.

pickle9000 · « **Reply #11 on:** August 24, 2015, 06:40:39 pm »

The only issues I have with an all plastic holder is the weight. I like it to stay put when soldering or whatever.

zapta · « **Reply #12 on:** August 24, 2015, 06:50:02 pm »

Quote from: krivx on August 24, 2015, 05:59:02 pm

This is presumably for soldering use, will it actually hold up? I wouldn't want my vise to melt all over my PCBs...

I am using stickvise with self printed pla jaws and it works just fine.

hagster · « **Reply #13 on:** August 24, 2015, 06:54:51 pm »

My first thought was to use drawing pins to fix it in place. With a bit of adaption it could be made so that they only go into the top of an antistatic mat.

I printed it with a 20% fill. So I guess it could be made heavier by printing it solid.

Alternatively, it could be adapted to add some metal weights or screwed to a sheet of something heavier.

SundayProgrammer · « **Reply #14 on:** August 24, 2015, 06:58:56 pm »

My humble version of this vise in the mailbag thread- if anyone intressed. I used milling machine but the very same STLs should be suitable for 3D printing too.

Axel.

hagster · « **Reply #15 on:** August 24, 2015, 07:24:51 pm »

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/blog/eevblog-775-mailbag/15/

hagster · « **Reply #16 on:** August 31, 2015, 05:57:09 pm »

Quote from: Kintekobo on August 23, 2015, 06:16:21 pm

Hi Hagster that looks like a really useful piece of kit. Just one problem for me in that my maximum printer bed size is 150mm. I haven't had much luck in scaling other peoples designs before so is there any way you can suggest how to reduce the width to 150mm?
Thanks,
Chris

New smaller version uploaded to Thingiverse just for you. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:980482. You can also get it on Shapetizer in a few http://www.shapetizer.com/design/274082604320097272.html additional sizes for a very fair fee.

Kintekobo · « **Reply #17 on:** August 31, 2015, 06:02:26 pm »

Wow thanks Hagster that was very good of you. Gonna give it a go tomorrow when I'm able to watch the printer.

hagster · « **Reply #18 on:** August 31, 2015, 06:10:22 pm »

No problem. If it turns out that it's still too big I expect you can scale it slightly without too much drama, especially if you only scale in the longer dimension.


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Author Topic: 3D printed PCB Vice (Read 7171 times)

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