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My 32x RGB LED board

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allanw:


My 32x RGB LED board that I've been working on for a while. I made the LED holes too small so I had to surface-mount solder each one individually, which took forever.

It uses one TLC5947 per 24 channels, which does 12-bit PWM on each individual channel. All the MCU has to do is shift in 12 bits per channel, and send a latch signal. The PWM clock signal is generated by the TLC5947's, which makes it a lot easier to use than the TLC5940's. They can also be chained together. Here's a video of it in action:



If anyone wants some I might make a big PCB order and sell the boards for $5 each or something.

At full brightness it'll draw about 2A of current. The TLC5947's get pretty toasty when running them at 5V, but they work just fine at 4V and dissipate much less power.

Any ideas for improvements? I was thinking about adding space for an I2C accelerometer and gyro so that it could be waved around and have it do things based on orientation/acceleration.

edit: Here's a link to my blog post about it: http://electronoblog.allanw.org/2010/10/tlc5947-32x-rgb-led-board/

migsantiago:
Nice job.

You could implement it on a motor or something in order to make a propeller colored clock.

Simon:
will your next versions implement a better mechanical system whereby if you plug them together you get a continuous row of leds instead of a gap between boards ? what sort of software does it require ? will you supply that to whoever buys the boards ?

JohnS_AZ:
I would certainly take a few.

Do you have a schematic available?  [edit] Never mind, dumb question. It's the driver and leds.
You might want to add some holes for mounting the board.

( BTW ... awesome on the Monk theme.  :) )

allanw:
I wrote some software for the Arduino and it's pretty simple. You can just do bit toggling and the 16MHz atmega can update at approximately 250Hz. With floating point math it drops down to 100Hz. I'm going to try using hardware SPI instead which will be much faster. Note that the driver chips are continuously doing their own PWM and there is no flickering.

Simon, yeah, I screwed up the edge connectors too close to the edge. In the next batch of boards I'll make it so that there is no gap when they're connected. Mounting holes are also a good idea.

Actually, the original intent was for this to be a propeller clock but I was never able to figure out how to provide power to the thing while rotating... I've looked at other projects but it seemed complicated to have to modify a motor and I don't know how to really do that.

Also, does anyone have any recommendations for board-to-board edge connectors that preferably lock?

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