Ah.
No worries about bandwidth, for it to need even 100Hz of bandwidth that poor sensor would be beaten to death (imagine the air pressure, and rate, to make it move that fast?).
So you don't need a fast amp, and you don't need to worry about capacitive loading and bandwidth. Just stability, and I suppose some linearity.
Use this circuit:

R3 is big enough to ensure stability. Read the amp datasheet, it should say. Typically 50-200 ohms minimum for a non-C-load type (down to zero for a C-load type, obviously). R2 is relatively large, 10k say. R2*C1 time constant ideally should match R3*C3 (plus a contribution from the amp itself if this is near its own time constant, i.e. t ~ 1/GBW), but since you don't need the bandwidth here, it can be made quite large, i.e. around 2ms even (for ~100Hz bandwidth).
If you're using the amp for some gain or whatever, not just a follower as shown, then take into account whatever else is connected to -in. That is, if you wire it for noninverting voltage gain, then +in is still the input, and -in is on a voltage divider; in that case R2 is the feedback resistor and there's another resistor from -in to GND. C1 is still where it's shown.
Additional phase margin is also available by putting a resistor in series with C1, but this isn't very important, and is hard to adjust without an oscilloscope (or a need for best frequency response).
Likely far more important is noise in the system. Be careful about connecting to anything other than the ECU connector. The connector has +5V and GND on it so you should not need to tie to chassis for power. Use shielded cables if possible, and tie the ground to a shield around the circuit if possible (and again, keep the shield insulated from chassis).
Consider placing an ESD diode at the output. For a 5V system, a zener diode from GND to output (in parallel with C3), is probably fine. Ditto between GND and +5V. Don't forget local bypass on the 5V supply, too (say 0.1uF ceramic and 10uF electrolytic).
Your diagram in the other thread, shows a capacitor on the ECU input. This can serve as C3, but there may be value in having one local too. In that case, leave the ECU alone, and put C3 in your circuit, of a comparable value (say 10nF, doesn't need to be huge).
Then a ferrite bead or resistor in series with the output, to prevent the two capacitors from resonating with each other.
Not all of these components may be necessary, and you can test without some, to see if they have any effect. The local C3 and the electrolytic bypass are probably on the optional side, but I would prefer keeping the zeners/TVSs, and the smaller bypass to keep the opamp behaving.
You can see all of this in the simulation if you draw up the equivalent circuit. Treat the cable as a series inductance (about 0.3 uH per meter of length, on each wire in the cable). Treat common mode noise (like ignition noise, sparks from relays, etc.) as a voltage source in series with some impedance (generally ~50 ohms), coupled to the circuit appropriately.
The coupling depends on the mode. It might be close enough to wire the source (VSRC + R) straight between grounds, if the offending source is nearby wires in a wiring harness. Or you might use some pF of capacitance, if it's coupled in through nearby proximity (e.g., a cable or box running near the ignition). Or it might manifest as a series transformer -- that would be wired as another trio of inductors in series with the cable's wires all coupled together, and to a 4th (a virtual primary winding), to which the source connects. This represents magnetic induction. Other tests are possible, given some physical model to represent. The main thing you will notice is, probing signals (with respect to SPICE ground '0') will all show the same noise on them, but not relative signals (i.e., a local signal against local ground) unless something has upset the balance (like capacitance from the circuit to chassis ground, due to it being in an open plastic box say, instead of a shielded metal box).
But really, that's just ideas to play with, and beyond taking a few precautions, there really isn't much that should happen with an opamp and slow signals.
So, what are you
really doing? Buffering a potentiometer that used to be directly wired in? So it doesn't do anything? Buffering it through an Arduino (ADC + DAC) somehow? Is the ultimate aim to adjust the signal slightly e.g. to adjust mixture in operation? Craft a brand new ECU? (Could start with a Megasquirt or something, learn the codebase and start making small tweaks.)
Tim