http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Self-discharge
Typically, among rechargeable batteries, Li-ion absorb the least amount of self-discharge (around 2–3% discharge per month,)
... which is complete and utter bullshit, an urban legend probably originated from the infamous "Battery 'University'" website so long ago that it has been quoted and quoted again for more than a decade, by people who don't have a freaking clue about what they are talking about. This is why there are a lot of sources stating the same. Unfortunately, having sources seem to be what matters over reality. I have tried cleaning up Wikipedia on li-ion stuff, but all kind of misinformation and legends are so deeply rooted that it is very difficult; and, random internet forum myths are preferred over scientific research because the Wikipedia standard heavily discourages "own research", and all research is someone's own until it becomes quoted widely enough, which doesn't happen because the "generally accepted" (wrong) figure is already there. But this is only in the world of those who talk; everybody actually dealing with the li-ion technology (manufacturers, analysts, heck, even the hobbyists!) know that the
real-world rate of self-discharge of most types of li-ion batteries is practically negligible, around 1/10th of the quoted number in most cases, unless the cells have quality problems. 2-3% per month may be some kind of guaranteed worst-case acceptance number for some Chinese manufacturers, but it doesn't reflect the reality.
Minimizing "sleep" mode consumption to about 2-3% of the battery capacity
per year makes a lot of sense, as does getting rid of mechanical relays. The most elegant way would be designing this at the motor controller level as it already has the required power switches anyway with very little leakage current - you also get rid of precharge (which is always at least bit nasty - no perfectly elegant way!). Our 3-phase electric vehicle induction motor VFD drive consumed only 1 µA through the IGBT & bypass cap leakage. Only the low current logic side, which worked from 12V, needed switching. If you keep all of this in mind, you can design a very good motor controller that "does everything" in one package with the least cost, elegantly and reliably.
But if you cannot alter the motor controller, you'll need the power switch and some precharge system.