1.8mm Pin Pitch

[danielrcoates]

Hi All,

I am having trouble finding one, does anybody have a suggestion, I don't want to solder directly to the module, and I don't want to create a pcb just yet, I would like to breadboard the design, but with the pin spacing being 1.8mm I am having trouble finding a suitable connector. I have tried google, digikey, farnell, mouser and ebay. but with no luck, I am happy to pay a little bit extra for the connectors.

I was hoping for something similar to this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/111121574501 but with 16 pins and 1.8mm pin pitch, or in-line headers, that I can use to solder onto.

It's for connecting to this, if that helps: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1KgLvtG9tqVYllKN05RNkdkeGFOYmhORnFYRzNwUWplM29F/view?usp=sharing

Any ideas, Daniel

[mikeselectricstuff]

You could probably splay out the pins to 2mm.
Shrink-DIP sockets are 1.78mm, which is probably close enough, though may not be big enough to take the leads.

[langwadt]

Hi All,

I am having trouble finding one, does anybody have a suggestion, I don't want to solder directly to the module, and I don't want to create a pcb just yet, I would like to breadboard the design, but with the pin spacing being 1.8mm I am having trouble finding a suitable connector. I have tried google, digikey, farnell, mouser and ebay. but with no luck, I am happy to pay a little bit extra for the connectors.

I was hoping for something similar to this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/111121574501 but with 16 pins and 1.8mm pin pitch, or in-line headers, that I can use to solder onto.

It's for connecting to this, if that helps: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1KgLvtG9tqVYllKN05RNkdkeGFOYmhORnFYRzNwUWplM29F/view?usp=sharing

Any ideas, Daniel

you need the male part?  find some solid 1.8mm wire, strip the ends and glue/tape 16 side by side?

[danielrcoates]

You could probably splay out the pins to 2mm.
Shrink-DIP sockets are 1.78mm, which is probably close enough, though may not be big enough to take the leads.

Thanks Mike, they seem a possibility, I will give them ago, I don't particularly want to splay the pins out, as they will eventually be going into a PCB, with the final design.

(Also, I love your YouTube channel )

you need the male part?  find some solid 1.8mm wire, strip the ends and glue/tape 16 side by side?

It's a female connector that I am after, but I think the tape method could also be a possibility, but with 20 of these to deal with I don't really want to be going down that route.

[mikeselectricstuff]

You could probably splay out the pins to 2mm.
Shrink-DIP sockets are 1.78mm, which is probably close enough, though may not be big enough to take the leads.

Thanks Mike, they seem a possibility, I will give them ago, I don't particularly want to splay the pins out, as they will eventually be going into a PCB, with the final design.

(Also, I love your YouTube channel )

you need the male part?  find some solid 1.8mm wire, strip the ends and glue/tape 16 side by side?

It's a female connector that I am after, but I think the tape method could also be a possibility, but with 20 of these to deal with I don't really want to be going down that route.

Do you really need to prototype with all 20 before doing a PCB?

[danielrcoates]

You could probably splay out the pins to 2mm.
Shrink-DIP sockets are 1.78mm, which is probably close enough, though may not be big enough to take the leads.

Thanks Mike, they seem a possibility, I will give them ago, I don't particularly want to splay the pins out, as they will eventually be going into a PCB, with the final design.

(Also, I love your YouTube channel )

you need the male part?  find some solid 1.8mm wire, strip the ends and glue/tape 16 side by side?

It's a female connector that I am after, but I think the tape method could also be a possibility, but with 20 of these to deal with I don't really want to be going down that route.

Do you really need to prototype with all 20 before doing a PCB?

I can see where your coming from, and I think your right, it might be an idea to do a pcb, but as it will be a grid of 32x40 pixels (eventually I want to get up to 320x400) I wanted to check it out before I ordered a pcb

[mikeselectricstuff]

(eventually I want to get up to 320x400) I wanted to check it out before I ordered a pcb

Why not use video wall panels? - these are stupidly cheap, and have all the drivers onboard.
 e.g. 32x32 for $20 shipped :
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/P4mm-indoor-giant-screen-Train-station-led-digital-signage/32556104674.html?spm=2114.01010208.3.42.VXNq8J&ws_ab_test=searchweb201556_9,searchweb201644_5_505_506_503_504_301_9911_502_10001_10002_10016_10005_10006_10003_10004_401,searchweb201560_8,searchweb1451318400_-1,searchweb1451318411_6451&btsid=8c15606d-f3f8-489b-8759-aad2bb051dd6

[danielrcoates]

Video wall screens are an easier and cheaper way to get to bigger resolutions, this is more about the fun and learning experience than trying to accomplish a set task for a particular project.

[cdev]

Find a "breakout board" for the part's package (on ebay, aliexpress, or whatever) and mount the part on that using solder paste and a reflow technique (which can be very simple, such as a hot plate)

Once you have it mounted on the breakout board you can solder little wires to that. When the solder melts - the part finds the perfect position because of surface tension, its almost like magic. Then let it cool off and inspect it very very closely for possible solder bridges. If there are bridges, heat it up again with your ESD safe soldering iron and remove them with solder braid.

Use a flux pen and apply lots of flux to make it all work right. When its cleaned up, use some alcohol to remove any residual flux and then you can mount it in your main circuit.

Have fun!

[danielrcoates]

Find a "breakout board" for the part's package (on ebay, aliexpress, or whatever) and mount the part on that using solder paste and a reflow technique (which can be very simple, such as a hot plate)

Once you have it mounted on the breakout board you can solder little wires to that. When the solder melts - the part finds the perfect position because of surface tension, its almost like magic. Then let it cool off and inspect it very very closely for possible solder bridges. If there are bridges, heat it up again with your ESD safe soldering iron and remove them with solder braid.

Use a flux pen and apply lots of flux to make it all work right. When its cleaned up, use some alcohol to remove any residual flux and then you can mount it in your main circuit.

Have fun!

I'm trying to avoid soldering the parts to anything, I wanted to easily re-use them for the final build.

I think I'll have to go down the route of ordering a board from OSHPark and hope it works

[danielrcoates]

Find a "breakout board" for the part's package (on ebay, aliexpress, or whatever) and mount the part on that using solder paste and a reflow technique (which can be very simple, such as a hot plate)

Once you have it mounted on the breakout board you can solder little wires to that. When the solder melts - the part finds the perfect position because of surface tension, its almost like magic. Then let it cool off and inspect it very very closely for possible solder bridges. If there are bridges, heat it up again with your ESD safe soldering iron and remove them with solder braid.

Use a flux pen and apply lots of flux to make it all work right. When its cleaned up, use some alcohol to remove any residual flux and then you can mount it in your main circuit.

Have fun!

I'm trying to avoid soldering the parts to anything, I wanted to easily re-use them for the final build.

I think I'll have to go down the route of ordering a board from OSHPark and hope it works

[cdev]

I have a bunch of DIP socket compatible dip plugs) with covers and the space inside there is big enough for many SMT ICs. You can - using soft cuttable copper sheeting, cut and place a small mini ground plane inside the dip plug made out of a small hand cut sheet of copper, resting on the bottom, under the component, connected to all four corner pins. (grounds at all four corners)  But watch out for lead inductance. Bypass caps - use larger SMT caps resting against the side, acting as little pegs, bridging the gap between chip and inner ground plane. Dont use leaded components there.