am i stupid or diptrace is completely bullshit crap??

[Siwastaja]

Some people will say
"always use an autorouter"
"autorouters do a better job than humans"

I have actually never seen or heard anyone say anything among those lines (unless clearly trolling), but I have seen it a lot in meta contexts like yours here. But setting that aside, it seems to me that instead of polar opposites, there is quite a strong consensus on autorouting. Of course, the degree it's dismissed varies; some people think that it's completely useless, while some people just make the point of being careful and doing important parts by hand. But these are not opposite IMO. It's like "lose weight - don't eat candy" vs. "lose weight - keep yourself a candy day, but not too often". They are not opposite; the point is the same.

Would it be nice if we had a perfect autorouter with artificial intelligence? I don't know. I have never wanted one, because I love doing the layout and in my books, doing the schematic (and keeping it absolutely perfect and in match with the layout) has been the tedious, do-not-want part (drawing every single bypass cap manually? On chips which have dozens of separate vcc/gnd pins? really? Those schematics are usually hard-to-read for human.). I would like an auto-schematic from layout! That would be an equally hard challenge to program right.

[Corporate666]

well as i was suggested to check things out im completely raging i was checking traces and think what i have found. within 4minutes including numbering ic's pins i found few errors like lm 358 2nd pin goes straight to ground or +12v i cant remember but its not like that in circuit it shouldnt even touch any of those rails with out other component if my memory is good and now im completely understand why one of the traces burnt but now im pretty confused because it made connection that shouldnt been a thing so my new question is should i even use any of the software? i mean its neat and clean bur beside that it feels worthless can you please tell me what are you using that software for?

Well, don't take this the wrong way - but when someone says "the program made a connection it wasn't supposed to", it reminds me of the tech support calls I occasionally get from my 70 year old aunt who will say "Windows just deleted all my pictures!".  If she gets too insistent on the matter, I'll say "so, do you think there are a whole team of programmers at Microsoft whose job it is to occasionally make Windows just delete random stuff to frustrate users?  Or... do you think maybe you *inadvertently* did something to delete those pictures - or maybe didn't delete them at all, rather just moved them?"

In other words, Diptrace or any other tool doesn't put parts on the PCB and randomly connect them.  It could be that the original library is wrong.  Such errors are somewhat common (especially since parts change a lot faster than the libraries can keep up with), but it's much more likely you did something wrong in your use of the software that caused the issue.

I'm not trying to bash you - but lesson learned... it's very important to check your PCB's, especially when you are just starting out.  I always generate my gerbers and look at them in Pentalogix or GC-Prevue (both free tools).  I've done probably 200+ PCB's and I still find errors in my final gerbers.  As a novice, it's 10 times more important for you to be quadruple checking yours (as well as your PCB layout compared to your schematic).

[salbayeng]

Hi Again.
There always people out there to help you.
Post the nearest city to you on the forum, and maybe someone can point you to a local fabricator/engineer.
I started off at ~ age 10, dumpster diving at radio repair shops to get parts, then you get to know the guys at the repair shop, (they used to put the good stuff in a cardboard box ina corner of the dumpster where I would find it!) , and they'll give you all sorts of broken stuff to examine / dissassemble, and there are a lot of guys out there with sheds full of perfectly good through hole and leaded parts that are just not needed any more.
Try to find a local ham operator, most areas have "hamfests" or equivalent, it's a yearly bazaar of electronic cornucopia.
My first multimeter (48years ago!!) was a tiny 20kohm/volt moving needle meter. My first power supply was a tri-ang model railway controller with a big rheostat. My first transistor was a BC108,  (metal can style) it arrived in its own brown paper bag, cost me $1 (about 2months pocket money)  and I picked it up at another local radio repair shop, and made great friends with the technician there.

For your first assembly efforts you should be using veroboard (stripboard)  this teaches you some good layout skills, being constrained to work in one direction. So all the copper goes east west, and all your links go north south.  The double row TDAxxx don't fit very well on veroboard, unfortunately.

As to your design efforts ,
It looks like you are using a single sided PCB, autorouters will turn these into a bowl of spaghetti. Anyway, follow the guide below and you will improve your circuit immensely
(a) Looking at your schematic , C6 c7 c8 c9 actually have the positive the wrong way around on the schematic, so these may actually be the right way around on the PCB.
(b) Determine which way the "grain" of the schematic runs, in you case it's horizontal and runs left to right. Rearrange the parts on the schematic so they are not all tangled , and you have done this.
(bb) check your grid is set to 0.050" (or 0.025") with visible grid of 0.100"
(c) note which are the "bus" signals, e.g. +12 and gnd and the two nets running across the top. The bus signals will go all over the place and be the hardest to route, Generally you would run the gnds below all the IC's and the +12v above them. This also means that in general , capacitors will have the positive facing up.
(d) put all the parts on the blank PCB in roughly the same position as they are on the schematic , i.e so J2 on the left ;  U3 in the middle , U1, U2 on the right , move J2 to the right, next to the power amps.
(e) align the parts (i.e. spin them around)  so that pin 1 of U3 is top left (i.e. notch to the top) ,  and the heatsink of U1/U2 faces outwards (this should put pin 1 at the top??)
(f) Parts with gnd at one end should initially be aligned north south with gnd at the bottom,  parts that connect to a pin should be horizontal and placed near that pin (try 0.3" away initially)  like C4, C2, R1R6C3C6,C7,C8,C9 , this should give you a neat row of parts either side of U1.  R3 will probably be up the top, above the notch
(g) turn on the rats nest mode, grab a part and wiggle it around to see which position gives nice horizontal lines, align all the parts neatly so that the rats nest are straightest over all. and all the parts are on the 0.100" grid
(h) double check the pots, make sure they are grouped sensibly and you can get a screwdriver to them.
(i) Now lay down a thick ground track (100 mil) as a straight line from left to right about 1" below U3 . Laydown a thickish (50mil) track for +12 from left to right  about an inch above U3.  You can attach one or two parts to these buses, but don't do the rest just yet, but keep thinking how are you going to get tracks to them later.
(j) You will have a bunch of easy connections- don't do them yet!  Find the nets with multiple connections these are more difficult , the nets of pins 1, 6, 7 of U3 will be most difficult , so start partial track laying with these.  At this point it should be obvious which parts need moving around, fix them.
(k) as a single sided board you will want to be laying tracks on the bottom layer, and these should be predominately horizontal.
(l) when you need to go vertical (ie to bridge over some tracks) swap to top layer, go vertically an integral number of grid units (0.1") and pop back again .  You will need to drill the vias and place links at these positions.  You can also use horizontal links (but vertical ones are most useful).
I'll repeat that - most of your tracks go east west , the remainder on the "other side" go north south , you can route ANY board using this algorithm.
(m) when you have done all the hard ones, go back and fill in the easy ones, and rearrange the power buses a bit.
(n) when finished review the whole layout, you will find a few places where you can remove the top layer links and use a more convoluted track. Try to avoid using a link to join a ground that splits it into two subnets
(o) at this point double check things like capacitor polarity. and the power pins to all IC's.

(z) Don't forget a  mounting hole in each corner , put these on a sensible grid like 1.500"inches or 50.000mm , allow a big enough space around screwhole to get the screw head in.
And you are done!