Electronics > Projects, Designs, and Technical Stuff

Replacing 2 x AAA to LiPo in Bluetooth mouse.

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3dgeo:
Hello,

Mouse PCB pictures bellow (got to love electrolytic CAP factory mod, and yes, apart from a few pubes that got caught over time PCB came from Gigabyte factory looking like this).

My plan was to replace 2 AAA batteries (2.5V) with  Lipo (2.9-4.2V) and low voltage step down converter, but when I inspected the board I found USB VCC, USB DP (guessing Data Positive) and DM (Data Minus?) , it does not have USB port, those traces goes straight to IS1616 IC, so
I can assume that this chip is 5V tolerant? Battery wire goes straight fo that chip aswel, but battery and USB VCC are not connected together.
I can't find any info on BT module apart HT24LC08 – it's CMOS 8K 2-Wire Serial EEPROM, operating voltage: 2.2V~5.5V.
Is it safe to assume this module 5V capable? YOLO it and connect 5V directly to battery wires? :D  :-BROKE  :scared: Would be great if I can just plug directly LiPo wires to old battery connector....


3dgeo:
I YOLO it............... :D

Aaaaand it works  :scared: :bullshit: Tho I don't want to push my luck, LiPo will be max 4.2V, not 5V. This mod turned out way easier than I expected...

Cheers  :-+

nsrmagazin:
Its not safe, but riskable.

This "2 AAA batteries (2.5V)" is "3VDC". It seems your entire circuit is 5V tolerant, but it was powered from less to spare batteries. A "5VDC" USB power supply can be "4.5VDC" actually. It will work most likely, but do it at your own risk as I want to wash my butt!

wasyoungonce:
Jeez that PCB and soldering is so bad it’s a wonder it works. From Gigabyte.... must be a sub-contractor.  Many of those BT modules are either 5V or 3.3V. The 5V versions usually have their own 3.3 v regulator or use one off module

NiHaoMike:
I think the USB test points are for the wired or combo wired/wireless version of the mouse.

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