All good points/options. I did a bit of digging and figured I have too many requirements for a single project.
I want bare metal. To start with just the IC and build from there. I'm talking "Blinky" and onwards.
I would say that 90% of the available kits come pretty much complete. Sure some are self-assembly, some are a back plane, but basically you are going to spend a few evenings soldering it together and then pretty immediately it will be downloading the dev pack, test firmware/ROMs etc.
That skips a MASSIVE amount of fun. It's like Arduino as opposed to AtMel/MChip assembler. It also dilutes the "bare metal" aspect by immediately giving me functional boot loaders, consoles, etc. etc.
I want a system that I can start with +5V and GND and watch it do nothing. Then, put an LED on an address line and a debounced button on the clock and make it blink... or fail to.... take it up from there.
So... taking advice to NOT breadboard a 68000 (as it's a special 24 address lines and 16 wonky, intermittent breandboard, data lines kind of tedious)
I bought a genuine (I hope) second hand, tested, Zilog Z80A original. It can be my "Blinky". It can be my switches, buttons and LEDs project. Then I can do the other fun part with it. Take a modern MCU and emulate the expensive parts like RAM and ROM.
I'm not going to go looking for a circuit example, except in the datasheet. I want to see how far I can get before I need to start googling solutions and when I google it will be "How do I solve this specific issue", not "Give me a working computer ChatGPT".
That part taken care of the 68000 can go straight to PCB. I will need to pick and choose between the modular options. The Mega-Micros thing is a bit jank, you have to like email him and ask and arrange PayPal payment. No gerbers.
The style however fits. I can take the CPU PCB board, put the 68000 in it's place and then start adding components while tagging everything else with probes or harnesses. When I'm done torturing the CPU into life bit by bit I can move onto the other boards.
Depending on the cost of the boards and how many there are I could get 2 or 3 of each and butcher them.
However, having the ability to carry on and add, say, a "modern interface" board with USB and maybe even networking later it would be nice to follow an "eco-system" where some of the harder work is already done... just not forced on you from the start. Baby steps have to be available, even if the "system" takes me to the moon ultimately.
On the "Just use an MCU". Already done that. I've bare boned, bare metalled, Arduinos, ESPs, STMs. Usually they don't take much more than power and peripherals. Maybe a cap or two. "This" project is about what happens inside the MCU. You could say I'm just building my own macro-controller-unit.