Electronics > Projects, Designs, and Technical Stuff

RGB to Component Converter

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Terry Bites:
Dont forget the LM6172 is just a single naked opamp. The LT6550 is three channel device with internal precsion gain set resistors. Its the same price or less than three LM6172s, but with handy features in a single package.

Yes the sync seperator costs about 5x the 1881, even if its not right for you purpose its worth knowing about your options. Also MAX have an SOT-5 Loss of sync device which may be of interest. The MAX7461 simply tells you your video link has been cut by a gaggle of ninjas.

 Many of us take inspration from devcies we havent come across before and sometimes dont use them as intended thereby broadening the art.
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EPAIII:
Perhaps you just want to have fun building this, but it sounds like you are going to an awful lot of trouble for something that can be purchased for a few dollars (or whatever currency).

You are talking about an analog component converter: from one set of analog components to another set of analog components. These converters use simple, weighted summations of one set of components to arrive at the other. Active devices (op amps) are usually used to prevent cross talk between the input components and bring the output levels back up after passing through the summing resistors. Even if the one you buy does not do the exact conversion you want, that can be changed, probably with some simple resistor substitutions.

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=Rgb%20To%20Yuv%20Converter&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-156598-679417-4&mkcid=2&keyword=rgb%20to%20yuv%20converter&crlp=435060840618_&MT_ID=585586&geo_id=10232&rlsatarget=kwd-298710865903&adpos=&device=c&mktype=&loc=9027887&poi=&abcId=1141816&cmpgn=6540152590&sitelnk=&adgroupid=80070761658&network=g&matchtype=b&gclid=CjwKCAjw2bmLBhBREiwAZ6ugo9vE1xUQ3QorWOg_uRefa2feYKdzKbwj2nADjCkVd3E0Ys9Va-QVvRoCA1MQAvD_BwE

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=rgb+converter&gclid=CjwKCAjw2bmLBhBREiwAZ6ugo-QPBrWd1IR4aFN5AV4zaNgNksKpJsNTEtay9PJYmXF9ooaw1ib0sBoCyQIQAvD_BwE&hvadid=409943030568&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9027887&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=b&hvrand=2798272253927533571&hvtargid=kwd-29274101&hydadcr=24662_11410881&tag=googhydr-20&ref=pd_sl_747r4bo8j9_b

https://www.walmart.com/c/kp/rgb-converter

https://www.ebay.com/itm/273178172012

https://www.arcadexpress.com/en/video-converters/615-convertidor-de-video-rgbs-scart-a-ycbcr-ypbpr-.html

There are many, many more internet hits. Just search.

Benta:
The LM6172 is a dual.

Terry Bites:
Have read https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&ved=2ahUKEwih0r7VzuDzAhUyDWMBHajZCrkQFnoECAQQAQ&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.analog.com%2Fmedia%2Fen%2Ftechnical-documentation%2Fapplication-notes%2Fan57fa.pdf&usg=AOvVaw2VLrwhUOxOeViL4-ZIaXv0

Loads of handy video circuits.

paul_g_787:

--- Quote from: EPAIII on October 20, 2021, 07:13:18 am ---Perhaps you just want to have fun building this, but it sounds like you are going to an awful lot of trouble for something that can be purchased for a few dollars (or whatever currency).

You are talking about an analog component converter: from one set of analog components to another set of analog components. These converters use simple, weighted summations of one set of components to arrive at the other. Active devices (op amps) are usually used to prevent cross talk between the input components and bring the output levels back up after passing through the summing resistors. Even if the one you buy does not do the exact conversion you want, that can be changed, probably with some simple resistor substitutions.

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=Rgb%20To%20Yuv%20Converter&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-156598-679417-4&mkcid=2&keyword=rgb%20to%20yuv%20converter&crlp=435060840618_&MT_ID=585586&geo_id=10232&rlsatarget=kwd-298710865903&adpos=&device=c&mktype=&loc=9027887&poi=&abcId=1141816&cmpgn=6540152590&sitelnk=&adgroupid=80070761658&network=g&matchtype=b&gclid=CjwKCAjw2bmLBhBREiwAZ6ugo9vE1xUQ3QorWOg_uRefa2feYKdzKbwj2nADjCkVd3E0Ys9Va-QVvRoCA1MQAvD_BwE

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=rgb+converter&gclid=CjwKCAjw2bmLBhBREiwAZ6ugo-QPBrWd1IR4aFN5AV4zaNgNksKpJsNTEtay9PJYmXF9ooaw1ib0sBoCyQIQAvD_BwE&hvadid=409943030568&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9027887&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=b&hvrand=2798272253927533571&hvtargid=kwd-29274101&hydadcr=24662_11410881&tag=googhydr-20&ref=pd_sl_747r4bo8j9_b

https://www.walmart.com/c/kp/rgb-converter

https://www.ebay.com/itm/273178172012

https://www.arcadexpress.com/en/video-converters/615-convertidor-de-video-rgbs-scart-a-ycbcr-ypbpr-.html

There are many, many more internet hits. Just search.

--- End quote ---

I have tried a handful of these devices from Amazon/eBay. There are three problems I have faced.

1. The device says "SCART" to component. I have yet to find one that actually uses the RGB signals and not just the Composite video signal. They work, but with the worst picture possible! And are not compatible with all my devices.

2. The two that I found that do actually have true RGB input (which cost me £30 and £19 a piece!!) are marketed as an "active" converter. It processes the image digitally and causes a delay of between 50-100ms in my testing. This is OK for video e.g. a DVD player but not acceptable for gaming, especially fast-paced shooters etc...

3. None of them I purchased supported 240p which is common on games consoles such as the PS1 and others.

Now, my TV on the component (YCbCr) input only produces a delay of around 2-6ms which is perfectly acceptable and useable for gaming!
My TV also supports 240p, 240i, 480p, 480i, 576p, 576i, 720p, 720i and 1080i via the component input so therefore supports all the resolutions needed.

With this in mind the only difference between the RGB signals and the supported component signal of my TV is the colour mixing which is what this circuit is doing, but passively without the digital processing.

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