By
popular request, a thread dedicated to this item:
https://www.seventransistorlabs.com/Images/Breadboarded_Induction_Test.pdfWhich if you wanted something stand-alone, just use a, like, 555, with pin 3 tied to pins 6+2 with a variable resistance, and 6+2 to GND with a cap, leave 7 open, 1 GND, 4+8 VCC. Uh might want to adjust the supply voltage, 15V is pushing it for a 555, and nearly for the gate driver, so maybe reduce coil turns and run at 10-12V for instance.
This was just an amusement I'd used to tin whole pieces of copper clad PCB stock. Basically spread some rosin (I've been using actual straight-up fresh pine rosin for this, why waste the good stuff right) on the board, get a blob of solder going, and using a steel spatula, push it around until the board is covered. Or if you're feeling fancy, you could spread solder paste. (For which you could use a reflow oven instead, of course.) Freshen up the rosin if needed, tweak driven frequency or height over coil as needed to keep the power right (do keep in mind, you're doing this ENTIRELY by hand, no automatic power control at all; the bottom side WILL blister and burn if you leave it too long!). It's quite efficient too, under 50W seems to be enough to hold a fair area (say 2x3cm or more) at soldering temp. Which really shouldn't be surprising comparing to the surface area of a 40W soldering iron for example, which gets pretty toasty if left alone at full power (oh man, it's been so very many years, but I actually used to use those, the $10 RadioShack irons

). It's just that the board itself is your iron, mwahaha!
Actual circuit operation is pretty simple, set frequency near (somewhat above) resonance (you'll need some indicator to show that, maybe as simple as an LED+R across the coil, of course doing this at the bench I've got the scope clipped into it), and get it on the right side so that power is about as needed. Very hand-wavey and intuitive, just use it like a kind of weird torch, or too-small hotplate.
Note that switching loss increases when below resonance (capacitive load), but this thing is running slow enough and not doing a whole lot to begin with, that that's not a big deal: I didn't even have heatsinks on the transistors for this. Anyway, it's low enough power that there isn't really much consequence of failure; maybe you let out some magic smoke, maybe you blow the fuse on your power supply (do fuse it, or set current limit to say 5A or so).
Note also that, as you bring "heavy" loads close to the coil, inductance drops, so resonant frequency rises. This can be used to effectively increase power output on approach, if you've got the setpoints and spacing dialed in right.
"Heavy" here can be defined as, blocking magnetic fields. So, thick non-ferrous metals. (That includes nonmagnetic stainless!) At ~20kHz, 1-2 oz copper is just thick enough that it blocks only
most of the field, which means the top layer is also being heated some, as well as anything on top (say a thick blob of solder; or that metal spatula, if you hold it flat to the surface, particularly if it's mild steel (magnetic)).
And no, this won't do anything for you like... make the perfect cup of coffee, say. At best, it would be an effective warmer.
Which, entertaining that thought:
Scaled up to a few hundred watts, you can make a cup of boiling water in the not-too-egregious time span of 5-10 minutes. (My microwave takes 2:30 to boil, and it's depositing somewhere around 500-800W.) Anyway, you need a susceptor down in the cup itself, which works out fine if your cup is metal (and not double-layered!), but for anything else you'll need, like, a ring or plate down in there to receive the power. And at that power level (1kW+), I would strongly recommend a more full-featured, and above all, safe, circuit, not a toy like this one. It's enough power that the plate, out of water, will get red hot! Given a European mains circuit and a power supply to match, you would be able to do a cup in a minute or two. Faster than that, basically requires not only much more electricity (>3kW), but such high power levels that you may simply boil water off the susceptor in the first place (critical heat flux), and then you have... problems.
Tim