Electronics > Projects, Designs, and Technical Stuff

Square holes on aluminum.... how do you do it?

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duak:
Been there, done that.  I spent hours filing square & D shaped holes in both alum, steel & stainless steel.

Some tools that helped me are:
 - nibbler,
 - good files and a file card to clean them. If you don't have handles for the smaller ones use wire nuts from electrical wiring - just screw them on & save your fingers,
 - stepped drill bit (Unibit et al) for sheet metal - these bits don't grab sheet metal like twist drills do - get one!
 - tapered reamer to enlarge holes,
 - wide heavy black ink marker & sharp scriber to mark outlines and center lines,
 - sharp center punch - automatic center punch even better,
 - edge & hole deburring tools,
 - vise and rubber faced jaws,
 

L_Euler:
Get a scroll saw off eBay and a handful of round abrasive blades.  You can then dress the corners with needle files.

KL27x:

--- Quote ---buying mills
--- End quote ---
You don't need a mill to cut aluminum. Dremel tool and a 1/8" coarse carbide burr will get you close (looks like an endmill but with diamond shaped points on it instead of continuous cutting edge like a twist drill). This will leave less work to be done with the file.

A router table or drill press will allow better control, but you can do it freehand. Concentricity/runout matters, so just don't buy generic rotary tools. Dremel or Proxxon are the only things to bother with, IMO. A cheap one will do it, if you find the right pressure and rpm to avoid loosening your fillings, but the cutting efficiency will be very low, cuz it will only cut on one part of the bit.

thermistor-guy:

--- Quote from: tkamiya on October 09, 2019, 02:24:01 am ---...I always disliked making non-round holes.  But for RS232C (9 pin) and power connectors, square holes are necessary.  My usual method is draw out the outline, drill holes inside it along the line, use whatever is available to connect the holes, then file, file, file....
Does anyone know a better way?  ...

--- End quote ---

I make D-subminiature connector cut-outs on DIY test jigs. My tools are similar to yours: Dremel and accessories, files, Roper Whitney hand punch.

My method for preventing cosmetic damage is to print the cut-outs, and other details, on adhesive A4 labels, 1:1, and stick the labels over the blank panels. Add masking tape over metal edges.

You can include other details on the label, like critical dimensions, connector designation, pin 1 location, panel type and version number, design file name, and so on - very handy to have all the info you need right in front of you as you work.

beanflying:
Sticky labels work really well in particular if it is a job you are likely to repeat. Due to the raised lip the nibbler wouldn't reach some of it so it was a combo nibble, saw and file. Catching the leavings as it was still attached to an otherwise working bit of HP'ness needed a little bodge. No smoke has escaped since so I think I caught all the bits.

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