Universal Soldering Controller 5.2 - Kit and General Construction Questions!

[sparkybg]

I confirm that it will work! 1000000%

And there aren't any lifetime issues. From about 2 months I implemented 1/2, 1/4. 1/8 power regulations and it drives even tiny tips really well.

... and I am using my controller for more than 5 years now. No burnt tips whatsoever.

In nanotweezers the tips are the same C105/C115 it already handles pretty well. The only difference is that there's two of them in one instrument, just like the two C210-like tips in Microtweezers I have for a looong time already. No problems with them also.

[Jane]

And what is a current price of the Unisolder 5.2?

[sparkybg]

$99 for assembled boards on Tindie. I am not selling it - chinese guy does.

[Doomedahab]

As someone who built several sets of unisolder 5.2 and 5.2c boards I can testify that it really is not hard if you can work methodically, use copious amounts of flux, and know how to handle a soldering iron.

I built my first set in 2018 with a cheap T12 station and without hardly any soldering experience. I did run into some small issues, but nothing that could not be solved with the help of the great community over at dangerousprototypes (the existence of that community is another great reason to build this station over all other clones imho).

And like someone said before: there is a great sense of satisfaction when after the build, you load the firmware, and *beep* the station springs to life

The latest firmware supports rotary encoder operation, which brings the operation of the station to the next level. There really is no other station like it.
 

[Ground_Loop]

I got my hands on a Unisolder kit. It's been a bit of trial by fire as my first SMD project, but after a few setbacks I have the boards built, connectors made up and PIC programmed.  Now I'm getting the 21 then 45 display on power up. Anyone know what this means and how to fix it?

[sparkybg]

You have either I2C pullup resistors rotated 90 degrees on PCB (very common error), or a device on I2C bus is malfunctioning.

21 is not an error. Init step 21 is detecting if AC or DC power is using, so it is normal to show for a while at startup. Step 45 means that I2C bus is initialized, and right after it the MCU tries to read from the EEPROM, which is I2C device.

[Ground_Loop]

Thanks for the quick response Sparky!  Found the I2C clock pin on the uC flapping in the wind.  Now it appears to work.

[Ground_Loop]

You have either I2C pullup resistors rotated 90 degrees on PCB (very common error), or a device on I2C bus is malfunctioning.

21 is not an error. Init step 21 is detecting if AC or DC power is using, so it is normal to show for a while at startup. Step 45 means that I2C bus is initialized, and right after it the MCU tries to read from the EEPROM, which is I2C device.

Ok Sparky, one last hurdle.  I have it built, programmed, calibrated and recognizing resistors for TD-200.  Now I just need to connect the TD-200.  In my TD-200 handle I have two wires (red, blue) for the heater that I assume connect to Vout1+ and Vout1-.  I have two that appear to connect to a thermocouple (grn+ and wht-).  I assume grn connects to SENSEA, but where does wht- connect to? Vout1-?  Also, for the other channel Vout2+, Vout2-, SENSEB, do I just leave those hanging or do they need to be terminated somehow.  Thanks for your help.

[sparkybg]

1. Red (heater+ and  TC+) to SenseA and Vout1+
2. Green (outer shell) and blue (heater-, TC- and Cold junction sensor-) to EARTH and Vout1-
3. White(Cold junction sensor +) to SenseB

This way the controller uses also the cold junction compensation sensor, located in the TD200 handle (more precise, because it is located exactly where the cold junction is), instead of controller's interna room temperature sensor (the sensor itself is very accurate, but is too far away from the real cold junction and can be influenced by the PCB temperature when a case with inapropriuate ventilation is ised for the controller.

And as I wrote in the main thread - the EARTH (Mains EARTH) is differnent form GND(power ground) and is not connected to anywhere but the controller's case (if made from conductive material) and to iron's connector, where it is connected to the iron depending on iron's model.

[Ground_Loop]

That should do it.  Thanks Sparky.

[Ground_Loop]

It's alive.  I made the decision to bring my capabilities into the 21st century and part of that was to equip myself with the tools and skills to work with surface mount components.  To that end I decided to build the Unisolder kit purchased from a member here.  After numerous setbacks and several weeks of on-off work I have a perfectly working Unisolder with a TD-200 handpiece.  Now I just need an enclosure.  The plan is to use another Pace TD-200 handle so I can utilize my small forest of tip cartridges.  Thanks Sparky for a fine design.

[Ground_Loop]

Now it's fully complete. I searched high and low for an enclosure with no luck on something reasonable. I didn't want to buy a Blackjack just to tear it apart and I don't have a 3D printer, so I learned some acrylic skills. The front, back, top and bottom are bonded and the sides are removable.  I have a new TD-200 handle on the way with holder to complete the setup.

With all the material and replacements for blown parts and all the labor, I have to say my time and money would have been better spent on another Pace.  It was fun and a great learning experience, but I'm glad it's over.  As usual, the worst part of the project was the enclosure.

[lastone]

Hey Vulcan35, I am also looking to get 2 sets of unisolder boards. The Dangerous Prototypes forum is broken for me