I'm not sure if by "ghosting" you mean text update time or the faint square background.
By ghosting, the digits take about 1-2 seconds to fully turn off. I haven't used it to measure frequencies, but suspect trying to adjust a pot to calibrate a piece of equipment will not be easy. Even something simple like turning on/off x10 took a good two-seconds before the '0' fully vanished.
From your picture of the LCD module, it doesn't look like you've connected pin 3 (VO). It should be connected to a 10K pot to control/adjust the contrast.
Initially I didn't connect this because I wanted to see how the display would look (and whether it worked). All I cared about at that point was whether my PCB and wiring was correct (which it was) and not how it looked. When I saw a pot on the back (see attached picture - this is how the back of my LCD is), I turned it and the brightness increased/decreased, so I thought: okay, maybe this is already completed for me, so I didn't connect a pot.
Let me know if this is wrong, but I wasn't trying to cut corners or didn't follow the information, since the pot "worked", I just assumed the need for a pot wasn't necessary and I have a display that incorporated it for me.
I doubt this library will disappear anytime soon; been around since 2014. Besides, there are many LCD module libraries around that can be reworked. I've made my own too from scratch using only the datasheet.
I'm sure you're correct, but things seem to change fast. It may not necessarily be the library that vanishes, but incompatibility with the library and future Nano boards.
Also, since I'm not on the software end (I'm sure it's obvious), I'm limited on implementing software into new displays.
The good news (I think) is that all signals come out the back eliminating the need to work inside the unit for any future changes. Instead of dropping the +12V on the inside as I planned, I brought it to the rear of the unit for any future needs. Initially I was going to drop the 12v down to approx. 8v by going through six diodes, but thought it would be better to send 12v out the back and then drop the voltage on my external PCB.
I also planned to use the 5v regulator on the Nano (with 8v going into it) to power the external 75189, but placed a 5v regulator on my PCB instead since I had several dozen regulators in my inventory already.
As my schematic shows, I went overboard on the design, but figured, if I'm spending the time/money on a PCB, I might as well add everything onto it and then not populate whichever I felt wasn't needed later.
Now that I know my display works, maybe I'll dive into whether any better displays exist that have faster refresh. I'd really like to put this counter back on the shelf and move on though; but think the hard part is now over.
