Electronics > Projects, Designs, and Technical Stuff
Vapour phase Soldering
tautech:
Chris, thanks for your input, despite what others might think of that unit it sounds like it did the job fine.
Was the paste in good condition or date expired?
How long did your process take from "go to whoa" ?
PS. Put a flag in your profile so jeremy can know where you are if he has Halon to sell
jeremy:
Hello everyone,
Sorry I've been a bit quiet, it's been a super busy few weeks for me. I'm already planning to sell some to HT230 to @IconicPCB (can you do the @ thing here?), but I still need to give him a call (sorry!)
--- Quote from: helius on March 20, 2015, 02:31:50 am ---
jeremy: the data sheet that comes with the HT230 in your picture shows a BP range of 222-237 C (10-90%). That seems to be quite close to a previous poster's figures for LS230:
...
Is there an error somewhere?
Edited: I see that the first figures are for the specific batch you received. So it looks like your batch is within the same range as the worst-case spec for LS230, implying it may work perfectly fine in machines designed for LS230.
--- End quote ---
Yep, the company I bought it from (TMC industries) sells it to people for use in reflow ovens.
Chris: Thanks very much for your input. Could you possibly get us some rough measurements of the inside of the cavity? Maybe even a picture or two :) It's interesting that it has a seal on top, I was planning on doing this too with some RTV silicone gasket and a sheet of borosilicate glass. How is the lifting of the board done? Is it using chains, or is it done with a leadscrew? And finally, what sort of guides are on the board carrier; are they just metal drawer slides or something like that?
Some updates on my end:
-> The metal shop is currently fabricating my stainless container. It's 1.2mm stainless, so I think warping might be a little bit of a problem. But for revision 1, I think it will be fine.
-> I purchased a 2kW induction cooktop, which won't detect my 1/4" stainless ball bearings as a saucepan and so turns itself off. I have 400 of them and they are definitely induction compatible, so I'm trying to decide between modifying the stove, or just getting a thin sheet of steel to activate it. I'll probably go for the sheet.
-> I've got some 0.5mm pitch BGAs (with PCBs) to solder. Should be a good challenge ::)
Chris Jones:
--- Quote from: tautech on March 21, 2015, 08:07:26 pm ---Chris, thanks for your input, despite what others might think of that unit it sounds like it did the job fine.
Was the paste in good condition or date expired?
How long did your process take from "go to whoa" ?
--- End quote ---
I'll try to post a pdf file with the measured temperature profile on the board, from which I estimate that the whole process might have taken 25 minutes.
The paste has been in the original syringe in my fridge for a year and a half. It is Chipquick brand, SMD291SNL10 96.5/3/0.5. It still seems OK to me.
Chris Jones:
--- Quote from: jeremy on March 22, 2015, 12:55:15 am ---Could you possibly get us some rough measurements of the inside of the cavity? Maybe even a picture or two :) It's interesting that it has a seal on top, I was planning on doing this too with some RTV silicone gasket and a sheet of borosilicate glass. How is the lifting of the board done? Is it using chains, or is it done with a leadscrew? And finally, what sort of guides are on the board carrier; are they just metal drawer slides or something like that?
--- End quote ---
I'll try to get you some more info next week if I have time. The board is on a perforated metal tray that has some stand-offs or feet, and those rest on the bottom of the chamber, above the central fluid reservoir with the cooling pipe in it. The mechanism to raise the board is just some stainless steel wire attached to and wrapped around a shaft with a knob on the end that lets you wind it up by hand. Nothing fancy, and no slides.
I'll attach the Quicky manual in case someone is able to buy one at auction etc. as the manual seems tricky to find. It is a nicely made unit and if I needed such a thing for my business then I think it would be a good purchase. For a hobby budget, probably something DIY would be in order, however it may be worth adding all of the same safety features to prevent creating toxic decomposition products that could otherwise result if it nearly boils dry.
Kjelt:
So as I now understand it this Quicky unit just adds distilled water to the Galden to cool it off?
So the students on that youtube experiment weren,t so stupid after all.
I am amazed I would have thought of some more elegant way of coolong like running water through tubes in the fluid as lets say a destillation column in chemistry works. So if the water is added in the cooling stage what hapoens to all the steam and how does the unit prevent the steam for teansporting the Galden vapour along with it?
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