Electronics > Projects, Designs, and Technical Stuff
Vapour phase Soldering
wraper:
--- Quote from: SWR on April 02, 2019, 12:10:53 pm ---
--- Quote from: mrpackethead on January 22, 2015, 09:58:11 am ---Tombstones are just painful. We get the odd ones happening in our reflow oven from time to time.
--- End quote ---
I know this is an old thread, but just out of curiosity: did you try the notched paste mask (see picture)?
--- End quote ---
IMDES is full of BS. Lower amount of paste can somewhat help but the main issue is that supposed temperature profile (with proper rise curve) on their website is totally fake. Just making my own crude controller in one evening, without any fine tuning reduced tombstoning by at least a factor of 10.
mrpackethead:
I do use a notched stencil, like that, but the reason you use it, is NOT for tombstones!!! Its there to help mid component balling.. ( tiny bits of solder that find their way off the pad and 'ball' up and sit mid way on the component.
Like Wraper, the profile that a stock IMDES machie produces is just garbage.
SWR:
Thanks for the feedback. :-+
I'll propably have to roll my own controller then?
The following pieces comes to mind with the UI on the phone:
- ESP32: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/ESP32-WROOM-32-ESP32-WROOM-32D-ESP-WROOM-02-ESP-WROOM-02D-Module-Espressif-Original/32963147246.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4do9R97H
- PSU: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/AC-DC-110V-220V-to-3-3V-700mA-2-3W-Switching-Switch-Power-Supply-Buck-Converter/32833671094.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dqlJOSB
- Temp: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/MAX6675-K-Type-Thermocouple-Temperature-Sensor-Converter-Board-For-Arduino-SPI-Interface-Module-For-Arduino-50mA/32834862835.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.36474c4d2fRX9M
- Heat: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/SSR-25DA-DC-control-AC-SSR-white-shell-Single-phase-Solid-state-relay/32295725401.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dYBRlNf
Do you have a better solution?
daedalus:
I have just reflowed my first batch of boards with vapour phase. I am very happy with the quality of soldering achieved. Currently i am using a cheap hotplate, and an asparagus steamer with approximately 200ml of Galden 230 in the bottom, and the pcb in a mesh tray above the fluid. I have a dual channel temperature meter, and am measuring temp in the fluid and temp 1" above it. I currently heat on full power until the galden hits 220 deg C, then i turn off the heat and let it coast until the board has seen 230 deg C for 40s. After that i quench the entire pot in a sink of cold water.
After doing this on 3 runs the galden remaining is appearing milky coloured, is this to be expected?
mrpackethead:
The 'milky' appearnace will be flux that is now floating ( not disolved ) in the galden.
I'd seriously suggest that your profile woudl be pretty scary if you are just heating it full on.
Get a little bit of PID control.
( see my thread about my frying pan project ).
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