EEVblog Electronics Community Forum
Electronics => Projects, Designs, and Technical Stuff => Topic started by: Bud on October 29, 2014, 03:28:39 am
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I have been soldering all my life but never understood the value of conical soldering iron tips. Mine was/is of chisel type. I worked SMT down to 0402 and 0.5mm pitch ICs. What do you use conical tips for ?
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Personally I use 1.2-2.4mm chisel for the majority of my work but for certain rework on fine pitch components and/or on dense layouts a chisel is simply too big, but those cases are rare
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I sometimes use them for making holes in plastic sheeting.
Mike in California
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I have been soldering all my life but never understood the value of conical soldering iron tips. Mine was/is of chisel type. I worked SMT down to 0402 and 0.5mm pitch ICs. What do you use conical tips for ?
I was the same as you until a few months ago when someone posted a similar topic and found that quite a few people used them.
As luck would have it, a few days later I had to do some fine smd soldering and decided to use some of my un-used, good quality conical tips. I was surprised to find the experience quite rewarding and have essentially gained another tool :)
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I have been soldering all my life but never understood the value of conical soldering iron tips. Mine was/is of chisel type. I worked SMT down to 0402 and 0.5mm pitch ICs. What do you use conical tips for ?
A conical tip is the only tip I have, and its the only one I have ever used (so I guess I don't know anything different).
I'm only a 'newbie' and only solder simple parts though. No SMD components, all through-hole.
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Conical tip is much finer than a chisel, I feel using a chisel tip is like trying to hammer in a nail with a sledge hammer.
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Conicals tips I use when I need to get into a tight tiny place. (I have a design that requires a header to be installed, then another board, and both have to be soldered
I've yet to use one, but "hook" or "j tips" I'm told is where it's at. A tip with about a 45 degree bend in the last bit of the top, lets it almost wrap about a TH componet.
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I have chisel tips from .8mm to 2.4mm. I have a Hakko conical tip for smd work and can solder 0402 with difficulty, but that is more my eyes than the tip.
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I use chisel only, much better heat transfer due to larger surface contact.
So if I had a conical tip I would probably use it to clean my nails :-DD
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Conical tips arent good for anything besides having the tip corrode first and not take a tinning where you need it. Get a chisel of the right size. Got a 0.030" chisel tip on my iron at work and it works way better for tiny smd passives than conicals ever have.
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Conicals tips I use when I need to get into a tight tiny place. (I have a design that requires a header to be installed, then another board, and both have to be soldered
I've yet to use one, but "hook" or "j tips" I'm told is where it's at. A tip with about a 45 degree bend in the last bit of the top, lets it almost wrap about a TH componet.
I am totally converted to the bent tips for all general soldering. They are especially effective for industrial solder cup connectors that draw a lot of heat. You can lay the large flat side of the tip right on the solder cups to get great thermal transfer. You can hook the tip under a wire as you press solder against it to tin. You quickly learn to turn the tip so you can lay the large flat surface against your work when possible.
(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/what-you-use-soldering-iron-conical-tips-for/?action=dlattach;attach=115325;image)
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I use conical for everything except when dealing with very big components, when i solder with conical, soldering iron feels like an extension of my arm, i don't like chisel, it feels too big and clumsy.
I'm the only one in school who prefers conical.
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I am totally converted to the bent tips for all general soldering.
[...]
(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/what-you-use-soldering-iron-conical-tips-for/?action=dlattach;attach=115325;image)
I use the JBC C245-963 too and really like it. With the bent form you can easily work in areas fully packed with components or other obstacles where you'd be in trouble otherwise.
I have some fine conical tips too, but I only use them for special cases where I don't want to touch the neighborhood of the joint. E.g. when soldering single wires onto tightly spaced ic pins or connectors for debugging, dead bug method, fixing a broken flexprint or similar.
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Conical tips are great for soldering SMD stuff on PCBs without solder resist or any fine soldering.
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Working with small surface mount devices or even through hole, its usually the radius of the tip that make the difference as the radius determines the smallest step/feature that you can land on but for chisels also determines the contact patch for the two faces.
With a conical tip you can push into a joint and then rotate around the contact point until the tip is pressing against both surfaces to solder, with a chisel you rely more on the radius to bridge the two surfaces as it can't be rotated. The thought experiment/example example is how a 30 degree angle (such as the end of a drawing square) can have both its edges pressed onto a pair of perpendicular faces.
If going for maximum speed you can use the largest radius tip that will fit and rely on the radius to make the contact to the pad while the face of the tip contacts the part. This is where the correctly selected tip is important, and a bent tip keeps the hands in a more comfortable position.
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What do you use cone tips for?
Chucking in the trash bin... :-DD
Actually not even that; my Hakko came with the perfect tip by default (a moderate wedge). :)
Tim
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@Someone - thank you Sir, nice explanation!
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I used only conical tips until a few weeks ago when I gave screwdriver tip a try after watching Dave comment on it. I have to say it sucked. I really don't understand why people say conical don't work. I find screwdriver tip to not work nearly as well as conical. I did a lot of SMD work with conical as well as thru hole and hadn't had any special trouble. I do have to say I am not sure how Dave manages to do that painting method, every time I did that it resulted in all pins being shorted; I thought that's how it works, then you have to use solder wick to remove shorts. But his works like magic. I figured that's where screwdriver tip shows its value so I'll give it a try next time I have to do SMD chip, but I think I am going back to conical in the meantime. So I feel it's personal preference. Some people think it's my way or highway, but if they truly sucked they wouldn't be still making them.
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I started soldering when I was 7. I never used anything better than those stick irons with conical tips, I don't want to beg but I have to say that I'm very good at soldering, I do much better job than some soldering tutorials. But I never used a decent soldering iron.
There's one thing that makes me mad is that the tip always dig a hole in one side and it only works on if find the sweet spot, otherwise you get very ugly solder. I wonder if the quality brands do the same, or this is just a consequence of the crapyness of the irons I use.
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The only use i have ever had is useign them on 32awg mod wires.:) a very small one. I generally use a large chisel for almost everything down to 0603 stuff.
There's one thing that makes me mad is that the tip always dig a hole in one side and it only works on if find the sweet spot, otherwise you get very ugly solder. I wonder if the quality brands do the same, or this is just a consequence of the crapyness of the irons I use.
Sounds like a bad/contaminated tip, hit it some flux and/or some thing abrasive I bet all sides start working. I have only ever had that issue on the ones that plug into the wall most temp controlled ones don't do that.(or rather they need to be left on a long time at high heat)
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I did some research a found that the flux is abrasive and wear the nickel coating, witch I don't have anymore and the flux eat the copper, and it start to make a convex sape on the tip. Everyone pointed out that this occurs on thin coated tip and iron turned on for a long period.
I had my iron turned on for 5-8 hours continuous probably hundreds of times. I'm not patient to waiting it to heat up so often I leave it on until I finish working on something, even when I take a break to snacks or just using the pc for a while [emoji28] oops.
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I find a fine conical tip useful for SMD work, particularly tacking down fine pitch packages before drag soldering.
I did some research a found that the flux is abrasive and wear the nickel coating, witch I don't have anymore and the flux eat the copper, and it start to make a convex sape on the tip. Everyone pointed out that this occurs on thin coated tip and iron turned on for a long period.
I had my iron turned on for 5-8 hours continuous probably hundreds of times. I'm not patient to waiting it to heat up so often I leave it on until I finish working on something, even when I take a break to snacks or just using the pc for a while (http://s3.amazonaws.com/tapatalk-emoji/emoji28.png) oops.
What were you using for flux?
And were you tinning the iron's tip?
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What were you using for flux?
And were you tinning the iron's tip?
I just use leaded solder with flux core.
And yes.
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Conical tips get a bad reputation because many people try the really pointy ones that have no thermal mass. If you use one of the conical tips that isn't quite so long, they work GREAT. You can solder an 0402 SMD, then solder a 12awg wire... with the same tip and temp. I like the Hakko T18-B tip.
-Farrell
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I just use leaded solder with flux core.
What kind of flux?
Not sure of what you were using, but you don't want to use acid core on electronics. Water soluble that is meant for electronics will corrode if not cleaned off, so isn't really suited for hobbyists IMHO. Best to stick with rosin or no-clean types.
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it just say 60% Sn 40% Pb and flux type RA Activated.
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it just say 60% Sn 40% Pb and flux type RA Activated.
Tips used with RA can last for years if cared for properly (decade or more in fact when accompanied by lead based solder).
Assuming you were diligent with tinning the tip, then the tip quality would be the likely suspect (certainly not unheard of).