Electronics > Projects, Designs, and Technical Stuff
Yet another resistance decade box
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Fortran:
1000 boards have been ordered. That should be enough :)

They should arrive in a few weeks so I'm going on holiday in the meantime.
Resistors will be ordered so they arrive when I get back.
natman69:
Thank you!   :-+
bitseeker:
Excellent. Have a wonderful holiday! :popcorn:
linux-works:

--- Quote from: bitseeker on June 14, 2016, 09:34:37 pm ---
--- Quote from: linux-works on June 06, 2016, 07:59:40 pm ---I tend to do pretty simple things that are designed in 2d and use a 'tabbed box' style of assembly. ...  its not glued, its floating and just screwed with standoffs and screws, so its open-able and fixable (the way I like it).

--- End quote ---

That sounds good. Binding posts on the short side?

--- End quote ---

maybe people can throw together some images (3d mockups) of what they have in mind and we can find something that works for most of us.

I often start with this site

http://boxdesigner.connectionlab.org/

its pretty well known, by now, and its pretty simple.  enter the dimensions (outer, I believe) and it creates a pdf for you; you import that into your 2d editor (I use corel draw since its what our lasers at tech-shop mostly use) and you add whatever panel cut-out shapes and lettering you want.  edit some of the tab notches, if needed, do a dry run using cheap cardboard instead of plastic (I often will get something wrong and its nicer to waste cardboard instead of good material).

what I do beyond the standard box maker is to add a rim around the top and bottom plates and allow for pcb style standoffs to be used (long ones) to screw into top and bottom holes.  if the rim is extended beyond the box dimensions, then you need to edit the 'zipper' tabs into rectangles that the laser will cut; those become locking tabs that keep the sides from falling out.  this method is glue-less and depends on the standoffs being the interior height of the box and being screwed to the top and bottom.  here's a photo of one of mine, maybe it will be obvious what I was trying to decribe ;)



'top and bottom' are relative, if it makes sense to put the rails this way, whatever works for you.  one optimization is to use those standoffs as ways to secure rubber feet to the real bottom of the box.  rubber feet with holes and #6-32 screws work well and its easy to find 6-32 thread hex or round standoffs and either stack them in unison, all 4 corner posts; or get long ones to-size or cut them all to-size.  if they are threaded on one end and tapped on the other, they will stack and you can screw the rubber feet into the female side of the standoffs.  the top of that stack has exposed thread ends, and so I tend to use finished nice-looking acorn nuts and just hand tighten them.  it holds the box together, it lets me get inside easily, there is no need to glue things this way and each panel is replaceable since its just a bunch of panels.  if you get panels made, get extras made and when things get scratched or broken or old looking, refresh it with replacement panels ;)

anyway, that's what I do for DIY panels.  its cheap, it works well and while it has a bit of a strange look, its very practical in many ways and if its not meant to sit on a shelf and look pretty, its actually pretty enough for its job ;)
PeterZ:
I was looking for a suitable box to accommodate the new longer MBB switches, found the Hammond 1591L at the local store.
Will do the job, there in enough space to mount the switches and binding posts on the top or any sides of the box.
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