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Hah,  yeah the whole x ray part of it sounds a bit hectic. Lucky the machine had all the shielding etc.  Though I'm much less nervous about buying used optical gear! 

The fault finding capabilities does look very impressive compared to 3d AOI but I'd be keen to hear actual user opinions instead of marketing.  I chatted to Oritech (local support) and they also told me new prices...
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electrolytic.
???

That certainly looks like an NP electro to me.  They probably used a 150V one to get a high enough current rating.

https://www.cde.com/resources/catalogs/BPA.pdf
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Test Equipment / Re: Siglent SDS3000X HD and upgraded SDS1000X HD
« Last post by Martin72 on Today at 10:24:26 pm »
I would only be interested in the performance, the bandwidth less so.
And I like multi-grid, you don't get that with SoC systems either...
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General Technical Chat / Re: Is LinkedIn worth keeping?
« Last post by aeberbach on Today at 10:18:56 pm »
LinkedIn started out in a deceitful spammy way, requesting access to your local computer's contacts database and then sending email to all those contacts to join LinkedIn. It's the original WhatsApp. I do not find anything there that is at all useful most times and do not care for the profile-boosting and endless "I wholly agree" that is most of the site's content.

However... I have gotten (good!) jobs through LinkedIn. I'd say keep it but don't bother with it unless you're looking for something specific.
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Test Equipment / Re: Siglent SDS3000X HD and upgraded SDS1000X HD
« Last post by KungFuJosh on Today at 10:18:49 pm »
I would have to lie if I said I wasn't interested in the SDS7000A. ;)
At work, I'm used to working with larger scopes, so a PC-based scope naturally has its appeal for private use.
But you have to be realistic.
Around 20000€ for a 3Ghz scope, if I bought that, nobody in my immediate environment would love me anymore.

It's settled then! Somebody in your immediate environment is going to win the lottery and buy it for you. In the end, it will only cost you a high five. 😉
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Interesting adaption for an old analog multimeter. How does the scaling work?
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Beginners / Re: Replacing SRAM IC with Flash
« Last post by Nominal Animal on Today at 10:11:09 pm »
Mouser sells the CY62148ESL-55ZAXI SRAM chips for 5.74€ or 7.28€ apiece in singles.  Mouser component search is better than LCSC's, and I started with this search, picking the low power (LP) ones.  You can find many of them at LCSC, I just didn't bother.

I use address 0 to 14 all the time but for a15 16 17 18 would be either 0 or 1... which gives different total address each time? 4 pins (15 to 18) would mean 4x4 = 16 banks, and the output is already 8 bits which means directly compatible.
Yes.  Specifically, you'd put a pull-up resistor from each of the A15, A16, A17, A18 pins to 5V, maybe as high as 1MΩ each? And also connect them to the four wiper pins of a 16-position absolute encoder like Bourns PAC18R1-33D28F, and the fifth pin to GND.

This way, the other pins of the SRAM chip work exactly like LH52256, but the rotary encoder selects which one of the 16 "banks" the N16 sees.
In reality, each "bank" is just a different 32k range within the 512k range the SRAM supports.

Another possibility would be to use a small microcontroller, for example a dirt cheap ATTiny404 (that you can program with an UPDI programmer using your freestanding C/C++ code developed in the PlatformIO environment), powered from the 5V supply line, with four of the microcontroller pins connected to the SRAM A15, A16, A17, A18 pins.

so for example, setting [A15, A16, A17, A18] to 0 would give me an address, let's call it memory card 1. setting a15 to 1 and others to 0 would give me another address called memory card 2...etc?
Yes, exactly.

The "trick" is that an absolute rotary encoder would let you do that directly, just by rotating the knob.

would the target device see it as it should be? a 32kx8 single pak for each address configuration?
Yes.

The other option would be to use a microcontroller with at least 4 output pins and 1 input pin.  The output pins would be connected to the A15..A18 pins on the SRAM, but also to gates of four N-channel MOSFETS (like BSS138, NX138AKR, etc.).  Each MOSFET source is to ground, and drain is connected to the cathode of a LED.  Each LED anode is connected to a suitable current-limiting resistor, say 1kΩ, and that to the 5V.  The input pin is connected to a tiny tactile button, the other side of the button connected to ground (or 5V).  The internal pull-up (or pull-down) is enabled for that pin.

The microcontroller would be programmed to switch to the next bank when the button is pressed, rotating through the 16 banks.  The four LEDs would show the currently selected bank as a binary pattern.  (You might wish to add a fifth LED and a resistor between 5V and ground, so that it lights up whenever the pak has power.)

If you use a binary counter like 74HC393 instead of a microcontroller, make sure you have a low-pass (debouncing) filter on the button connected to the clock input.  Otherwise a single press may jump multiple banks.

As to the battery, I haven't thought about exactly what kind of circuit is needed.  A simple (Schottky) diode would protect the battery from being backfed by 5V whenever it is connected and powered on; but something like a MOSFET that would disconnect the 5V line when no 5V power is present, and disconnect the battery when 5V is present, would reduce the load on the battery through the pull-up/pull-down resistors, and ensure the battery would not try to power the microcontroller/counter if one is used.

still expensive and won't fit inside i guess
Expensive?  I count less than 10€ in parts, either way.  If you or a friend has a 3D printer, you could print a custom enclosure, too.
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Test Equipment / Re: Siglent SDS3000X HD and upgraded SDS1000X HD
« Last post by Martin72 on Today at 10:10:03 pm »
Of course! But he just got the 3000X HD, so you gotta let him play with it for a year before he gets bored, and the 8GHz will be out by then. 😉

I would have to lie if I said I wasn't interested in the SDS7000A. ;)
At work, I'm used to working with larger scopes, so a PC-based scope naturally has its appeal for private use.
But you have to be realistic.
Around 20000€ for a 3Ghz scope, if I bought that, nobody in my immediate environment would love me anymore.
Or make sure that I was admitted to a psychiatric ward.
5000 is my absolute limit, as long as I'm just a normal working person.
For a scope, mind you, the threshold is much lower for other measuring devices.
It may seem from the outside that I'm hopping from scope.
I do, but never without a reason.
I made the biggest jump in price when I switched from the SDS2000Xplus to the SDS2000X HD.
But it was worth it to me - later.
When I got to know the advantages better, you don't see them at first glance, except for the 12 bits.
You can be happy with the 2000X HD for the rest of your hobby life, without question.
With the 2000Xplus almost...but not quite, believe me.
Ergo the HD.
If the 3000 hadn't been introduced, it would have stayed that way, because a 6000A would be over my set budget.
But then came the SDS3000X HD.
1Ghz, 4 GSa/s... No, I couldn't resist.
I was still able to sell the SDS2000X HD, and I got a very good deal on the 3000X HD, so I only had to spend €500 on it - I would have been stupid not to take advantage of that.
So I had to strike again.
And this really could be the final scope, within my budget.
Sure, I'd like a bigger screen and a slightly higher resolution, 12” and 1280x800 for example, but then we'd be back to the 6000 and that costs €7700 at least.
No chance, I don't want to spend that much.
And it wouldn't be a 12 bit scope, “only” 8.
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i have no idea why they need a 150 volt electrolytic non polarized cap on a 24vac motor.

consider replacing it with any standard 35uF motor run cap. (6$, but they are 1.5" diameter and 4 inches long)

or try and find a 150vac rated film capacitor (typical 10uf cap is 1" diameter and 2 inches long)

or you may find they used a 150v non polarized capacitor so that it would survive 1000 hours of operation at 24 to 35 volts ac at an amp or so of current.

if you only need a 35 volt rated capacitor then you may be able to find a smaller film capacitor, or even ceramic capacitors for less than a 6$ (huge) motor run cap.
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