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Hi,

I made an order of components from Arrow, checked out. They contracted me today saying they need a VAT number. My company does not have one, well I did have one, but de-registered last year because of I was in a phase of not ordering a lot and not making enough turn over to be required to register.

VAT is optional in UK. Just wondering if anyone else is in the same boat?
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Projects, Designs, and Technical Stuff / Re: Driving a capacitive load
« Last post by e_ln on Today at 07:46:48 am »
I've attached a schematic.
The goal is to drive a Polymer-dispersed Liquid Crystal (PDLC) film. As far as I know, it's electronic properties are similar to those of a capacitor.
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Beginners / Re: good/cheap headphone aplifier/dac?
« Last post by flaotte on Today at 07:44:09 am »
how is that better in comfort/sound quality?
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Gearbox.
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it's a businessmen all right ....

not the good place here, the op may get banned ?
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I'm on my second pair of Knipex. Only used really cheap cutters in the past and I hate them. The cheap ones break all the time, and the jaws won't stay straight. On the first Knipex I used too much force and broke them. Now the second, I mistakenly tried to cut a steel wire and chipped them, so they are now ruined. I would buy Knipex again, they are the only affordable that I can get, but happened to get a good deal on Amazon on Xuron LX Micro-Shear flush cutters, so I will try them next. They are a bit cheaper than Knipex, so let's see.
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yes  many peripherals have serials numbers and the main / ECU has to acknowledge them,  just changing it, does not do the job,  you have to re encode it

Even Radio's with navigation ...

Or  some people grab the ecu and the others ... but at some point you'll get stuck getting all of them,  stripping a complete car for 1 module ?

Some use CANBUS tools to sniff out communications ...


I had many GV's an the last one a Suzuki GV 2010 3.2l (a mix of many brands and a gm motor in it)   i was "lucky" cough cough   to find the Suzuki  SW tools to do that and get the obd2 interface, i had esp and abs problems, had to re-code the brake module serial into the ECU  ...
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Buy/Sell/Wanted / Re: Hello everyone, I'm here to chat with you all
« Last post by tggzzz on Today at 07:25:31 am »
Haha, I'm selling a lot of things now, so I'll make a list for you to take a look at

State quantities, prices including postage, payment mechanisms.

Use aliexpress/ebay instead of this forum.
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Has anyone tested the SigScopeLab software with an SDS2000X Plus?

I tried using this software.
Unfortunately, it does not work correctly with SDS2000X+. The timebase is not set correctly, it is in the range from 5 sec/div to 1 sec/div, regardless of what you set from PC. Maybe with the new firmware (when it released) the situation will improve, but for now this software useless for SDS2000X+ owners.

I had same problem using it on my Windows 10 PC which had the language and date/number format set to "German" (i.e. using comma "," as decimal separator). After changing Windows settings to use dot "." as decimal separator, as used in USA, the timebase settings were applied correctly. Maybe this helps.
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Interesting.  To be clear though, I am not aiming at holding a temperature.  I am interested in controlling the amount of latent heat of evaporation of water at boiling point.  With the 3kW element alone it will of course hold 100*C fine.  Unfortunately with a high enough evapouration rate that it literally rains beer afterwards from the cieling.  About 5 litres of beer turns into rain.

So temperature regulation is out.  If I needed temp regulation I could use the built in bi-metalic thermostat.

The proper way to do this is to install two heating elements, one double the power of the other e.g. 1kW and 2kW

Run the 2kW element from a standard bi-metallic thermostat.  Use the PWM controller on the 1kW element.

Interesting.  I had been bouncing a similar idea around.  As this is a "rush" job now, ideal can wait.

If I simply take what I have now, the built in 3kw ring element in a "tea urn", but purchase a "Travel Kettle" with a 1kW immersion coil element.... then I can jury rid that 1kW element into the boiler to hold the boil.

I expect 1kW (based on the variac position) would be grand to maintain the boil. At least in a pinch.

By "jury rig" though I mean something your mum wouldn't like and your spark would disown.  Like cut the element out of the kettle in it's full doubly insulated form and "dump" it in the wort, cable and all! 

At least it's "boil side" so it doesn't need that much sanitation first!

The whole stainless steel boiler is earthed.  "What could possibly go wrong?"

The "Proper" and "Best" way I believe to solve this is actually a large 8kW propane burner and a proper stainless steel "kettle" on a stand.  That would however force me to do the full 1-1.5 hour boil outdoors... and if I don't fancy carrying around 25 litres of hot wort, also the cooling, transfers etc.  Trouble is, a "home brew" kettle is about £300.  An industrial sized pot capable of taking first propane heat for hours is probably half that, but it will lack nice features like temp probes, proper ball values, filters etc.

My £40 coffee/tea urn does just fine!  Eventually it's bottom will rust out, but it's got a few years left in it yet.
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