Electronics > Power/Renewable Energy/EV's
Electric Car Experiences
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fastbike:
Any thoughts on using a Nissan Leaf (Gen 2) as a home battery, as well as a car. I don't drive much and am installing a 12kW solar pv system but have put off installing a battery due to cost.
I'm assuming there is a V2H (rather than V2L) option that could output directly from the HV battery of the car through the required electronics/inverters etc ?
uer166:

--- Quote from: coppice on October 15, 2024, 11:54:36 am ---is a reliable system or a flaky system best? :)

--- End quote ---

Think about the DCFC CCS case: using the mechanical release and (potentially) pulling the plug during charge under load will result in a big 800VDC zorch, destroying both the charger cable connector and EV inlet, not to mention the risk of eye damage/shock. I'll take the reliable one with occasional issues, thank you.
Siwastaja:

--- Quote from: fastbike on October 20, 2024, 01:16:28 am ---Any thoughts on using a Nissan Leaf (Gen 2) as a home battery, as well as a car. I don't drive much and am installing a 12kW solar pv system but have put off installing a battery due to cost.
I'm assuming there is a V2H (rather than V2L) option that could output directly from the HV battery of the car through the required electronics/inverters etc ?

--- End quote ---

As a car Leaf offers quite good value, prices of used cars are down because lack of modern day features like CCS plug, battery thermal management/preheating etc scares off buyers and make some people swap for better. But if you can live without those features then it's really fine and as a car generally a very reliable car. On the list of all cars (EVs and ICEs), inspection failure reports have shown Leaf on the #1 least fails and Tesla with most fails, everything else goes in-between. So if you can AC charge at home and need to get reliably from point A to point B, Leaf is a good choice.

For longer road trips it's total crap. Well with the largest battery option (60kWh) you could manage, especially if you buy aftermarket CCS-Chademo adapter which is finally available after all these years, but you would be still waiting for the battery to cool down and accept decent charging power at the second or third fast charge.

Leaf does have V2x output but I'm not aware of any actual interface product outside of Japanese market. If it exists, it's going to be expensive. I have been playing with the idea of DIY, you could easily get an off-the-shelf hybrid battery inverter (like the Solis discussed on the other thread) and build interface box with Chademo connector translating Chademo V2X messages (these are standardized so other Chademo vehicles would work, too) to act like it was another type of battery (e.g. BYD) supported by the inverter. Basically needs Chademo plug, fusing, contactor, all that dangerous HVDC design stuff, CAN + RS485 and a microcontroller. A LOT of work for something seemingly simple. Maybe someone has done it already.
Siwastaja:

--- Quote from: uer166 on October 21, 2024, 08:46:57 pm ---
--- Quote from: coppice on October 15, 2024, 11:54:36 am ---is a reliable system or a flaky system best? :)

--- End quote ---

Think about the DCFC CCS case: using the mechanical release and (potentially) pulling the plug during charge under load will result in a big 800VDC zorch, destroying both the charger cable connector and EV inlet, not to mention the risk of eye damage/shock. I'll take the reliable one with occasional issues, thank you.

--- End quote ---

I'm quite sure neither CCS nor Chademo depends on the mechanical locking alone for disconnect safety. They surely must use control signals, pins of which disconnect first and quickly open the HVDC contactors (in the car/battery pack and in the charger).
langwadt:

--- Quote from: uer166 on October 21, 2024, 08:46:57 pm ---
--- Quote from: coppice on October 15, 2024, 11:54:36 am ---is a reliable system or a flaky system best? :)

--- End quote ---

Think about the DCFC CCS case: using the mechanical release and (potentially) pulling the plug during charge under load will result in a big 800VDC zorch, destroying both the charger cable connector and EV inlet, not to mention the risk of eye damage/shock. I'll take the reliable one with occasional issues, thank you.

--- End quote ---

sure it doens't have some mechanical/redundant system to make sure power gets disconnected before the plug disconnects?
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