I'm confused. Do you want a circuit breaker or a disconnect?
Indeed there's a lot of misconception about the concept of a circuit breaker because Average Joe tends to take its position for granted thru basic ac domestic installation practice.
eg
It originated with Utility suppliers insisting on this order of precedence "Source - Main fuselink(Utility access only) - Main Isolator Switch (maybe lockable often combined within Consumer Unit) - Distribution Board (aka Consumer Unit) Main Switch - MCBs - subcircuits - fused plugs( power) or switches (lights).
There are those designed for:
manual disconnect under load
auto disconnect under overload
disconnection under fault current
switches intended for isolation
emergency stop PBs
Selector switches
No Volt lockouts
etc
The use of "Circuit Breaker" by itself can be misleading in dc use
eg I have often seen say battery (bank A to B) selector switches (rotary cam type) used without any warning about switching under full load (with the inevitable arc wear or worse that occurs). Where are the interlocks?
I believe the NEC insists on an exterior "Firemans Switch" for Roof panels
The last thing a Fireman needs is to be presented with a complex distribution cabinet somewhere in a basement
Here's the answer - the ubiquious preware Siemens pattern knife switch still used in millions of houses thru far east (a larger one rated for 60A is available ca 150% bigger ca $15 perfectly ok for ELV <50Vdc, just wear gloves and cover you eyes. The Switchgear mafia dont want you to know about this
And below here is the proof it works - a 600Vdc prewar switchboard for the London Underground
I finally to bore you all stupid here is a demo of my hypothesis that a 48Vdc panel array needs a separation gap between contacts (and fuse links) of 50mm or 2" to break an arc flash reliably
If it still persists then use a plant water mister to douse the flame
Whats not to like?